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Hi guys. Need some advice...I'm finishing up a new smoker and can't decide whether to make a "cowboy grill" (like WH 1975,
or Millscale) or not?
Has anyone used this option?

Nice work. Do you start em up ?

My question grew out of Frank's video, where he talked about the hose and the flow rate, if you pinch it (the hose) with your finger. That is, if the damper is at the end of the pipe (like a finger at the end of the hose), then it turns out that we accelerate the flow of the jet, but if we do the sa...

Guys, is there a difference where the damper is, at the beginning of the pipe (outlet from the manifold, built into the pipe), or, like most, at the very top of the stack?
Does this location affect the flow?

They are big builders and sell a ton of pits. There’s got to be something to it. Worth testing. Agree. judging by the video, by the way, not much space is lost there ... Just next week, I'll be back from the big catering and want to try it. I will replace this IMG_20211009_150017626.jpg IMG_2021100...

this place is usually not used anyway, therefore,
I think so, they made a shelf there. It also serves as a damper.
The mile scale has the same thing, only at 500 gal.
Here:

Hello guys. Well i redo my stack to collector...
and fixed problem with coolest shelf, near the stack.
Look at this video.
https://youtube.com/shorts/2bqKyQvQ5c8?feature=share

I think you might have better luck if you lower the stack exit down to the lower food grate level, this way the heat is forced down before it can exit. A plenum or collector will help with better draw and less of a hot spot there right at the smoke exit. After the mod you should find the upper grat...

Dirtytires wrote: ↑

August 2nd, 2021, 10:55 am

Actually, 220-265 is not a bad temp swing on a traditional offset. That may be just about the best your pit will do.

Sounds like a bad diagnosis for a patient ...

hogaboomer wrote: ↑

June 24th, 2021, 9:01 pm

Have you tested the thermometers to see if they all give the same reading? I don't trust a door thermometer at all. You need a digital thermometer with probes.

Yes, I tested them with boiling water.
I will need to try digital with a probe.

I tried playing with the damper ... no effect, this shelf is still the coldest. Those. when the averages (top and bottom) show 265f, the lower left barely reaches 220, and above it 250 ilm is also 265 ... The firewood is the same, oak, dry, the size was specially chosen not large. Tried it as before...

This is a standard offset, right? On a standard/traditional offset he grate directly next to the stack will usually be the hottest. It's the choke point for all the heat and smoke before it enters the stack. When you close the damper in your stack, it causes back pressure the drives the temps up ac...

Your fire absolutely needs a rack to burn properly. It is important for air to get to the fire as well as ash to fall thru so as not to clog the fire. Sitting on a solid surface will not allow it to burn efficiently. If you had a problem with the coals falling thru and not forming a coal bed then t...

To be honest, the photo is bad, a log of smoldering, but usually lights up instantly ... Is there a fundamental difference in running on a 500 gal smoker, when the FB has a flat bottom and charcoal pastel is formed in the basket using an intake window, or a round bottom when it is built right on the...

Yes, I have it all. IMG_20210421_195801712.jpg IMG_20210419_200018720.jpg IMG_20210421_215736058.jpg As for the rack ... I tried to make a grate, but I did not like the fact that the coal bed practically does not form and the temperature in FB changes more sharply. So I flexed a sheet of metal in an...

Some video...
https://youtu.be/0BUcHMnvQjw

Well, after lengthening the firebox and shortening and narrowing the stack, everything works ... almost the same! 😊 Except for a couple of things: 1. There were errors when cutting doors and there are small leaks. 2. There is a hot spot, this is the middle shelf, in the middle of the CC. 3. The cold...

Well, I lengthened the firebox.

Now, according to the calculator, everything is so.
Tomorrow I'll redo the stack, let's see how it all works.]

By the way, about the volume ... when the FB increases, do I need to take into account that part of the FB that is to the left of the dotted line? Because now she is not involved in the calculation.

Anyway, it is already clear that the FB is not large enough, so now you need to first increase it.
I will do this.

I haven't run the numbers to confirm, but as a cheap test, you could find some light gauge sheet metal duct ( we call it snaplock pipe here in the states) and drop it down the top of your larger pipe and seal it off inside your cc with a blank off plate, which is essentially a flat square 10x10 pla...

what does this 19.46 mean? Match line shows 100% ...
The stack is now 8 "wide and 130" high, just above the center of the CC.
The stack goes through the roof of the garage to the street, which is why it is so long.

But to answer your question, it's the volume of the chimney that is important, not the diameter. You can easily cut it down in length to get to the proper volume. As it sits, I would guess you are about double what is recommended. I entered the stack diameter, 8 "into the calculator and it returned...

All the volumes of a pit are important. It might make sense to run the numbers off the pit calculator and then compare it to what you have. With an undersized firebox and an oversized chimney, I would expect a really cold running pit...especially at the chimney end of the pit. When all the parts ar...

Kcd2016 wrote: ↑

April 3rd, 2021, 4:06 pm

That stack is a monster too. Did you use the calculator?

No. Then (more then year ago) I did not know about this forum yet ...
Stack 8.1 "in diameter. How important is its length?