SmokerBuilder.com

Big T wrote: ↑

February 8th, 2021, 7:40 pm

Dirtytires wrote: ↑

February 8th, 2021, 10:56 am

That thread was from the archives.....I think Pete is the only one still here from that original post.

yep

Well I was trying to use the search function and find an answer so that I didn't create an unneeded thread. Lol

Depends on a few things. Really, only way to know for sure is start thin and add more paint to thicken. You want good atomization. I would start thinner than maple syrup and go from there. If oil based, use naptha. Thank you. Now I just have to wait until it warms up a little bit so I can paint it....

Actually a 1.8 nozzle would be perfect for the rust oleum . If it acts like it don't want to spray add a little mineral spirits to it thin it down a bit and you'll be good to go 40 - 50 pounds pressure are yer right in there . Good luck , if ya got any paint ?,s feel free to ask me ... I have been ...

You could always look at doing some type of fan setup to control draft and temperature in each chamber.

And judging by your GF thread, you must be a pro. That is some amazing work and one heck of a setup you have there.

tinspark, I just looked at your Santa Maria build. That is awesome. Never seen anything like that. You certainly have more fabrication chops than I do.

Painting: Stir thoroughly. If thinning is necessary, thin material only with mineral spirits or acetone. For brush or roller, thin no more than 5%. Do not thin with gasoline, lacquer thinner, turpentine, etc. Apply with a good quality brush, roller or spray gun. Clean-Up: Clean roller and other app...

The main thing I like about a spray gun is that you can get the paint on faster and a thicker coat in or shorter period of time. If you go three coats with a spray can that may be like one coat from a spray gun based on how much or little you thin your paint (use lacquer thinner btw). Just be sure ...

I believe the rustoleum states that is should not be sprayed...not sure why. They recommend rolling or brushing. For that reason alone, I would want to use a rattle can as I hate brushes. I used the bbq high temp on a set of fireplace doors. Super flat finish, looks great but is very easily chipped...

Thank you all for the replies and information. I feel like I will probably go the spray gun route. I have spent considerable time designing and building this grill and want to give it the best protection that I can. Not to mention the cost of steel these days. I have a ridiculous supply of plastic s...

I am in the process of building a Santa Maria and I am planning to paint it with high temp paint. I am looking for some feedback both on which paint(s) y'all have had good success with and how much you think I will need. I am looking at using either the rust-oleum rattle cans or getting the $15 HF s...

Does anyone have a good picture of their drain setup? I seem to recall someone saying that they had the drain going from the baffle plate through the bottom of the CC. My assumption there is that they also have another drain under the baffle. Otherwise how would they address cleaning out under the b...

Thank y'all for the feedback. I am thinking that I will take the door off and try to address it that way. I will also do the flat bar on it while it is off. One of the biggest issues I am having is when I am welding something thinner to the tank. The tubing that I used for the hinges is at most 14ga...

So here is the problem I am having.....the door sprung, but not how doors usually spring. It sprung in. Below are some pictures for reference. Any ideas on how to deal with that?

So I am bad at taking pictures and updating. So here is all of it at once.... https://i.imgur.com/zCiP7zI.jpg https://i.imgur.com/M2LsY5v.jpg https://i.imgur.com/mCegHq9.jpg https://i.imgur.com/p1pbeXN.jpg https://i.imgur.com/i8zZCwV.jpg https://i.imgur.com/qy71WE0.jpg https://i.imgur.com/Cww7r23.jp...

Dirtytires wrote: ↑

August 12th, 2020, 10:18 am

Your firebox is gonna be heavy. Don’t think I would just hang it off the end...probably want a support under it tying it into the cart.

That is an excellent point. I will come up with a support to tie into the cart.

Thanks for the suggestion. I think I should have plenty of space for that. If I am understanding correctly, it is just a 12" long baffle that is under the main baffle?

So I came up with a plan for the firebox that I wanted to run by y'all for input. My idea is to build a box inside a cylinder for the firebox. I am going to take the 24x24 cylinder, cut it down to 20" long, and build a box inside it using 1/4" plate. The box will be 20x20x20. The areas between the b...

The ratio of the components are all based on volume. The cook chamber requires X amount of heated air to achieve the desired temperature range. Normally the FB is 1/3 the size of the CC and then you have the ratio's of the throat, baffle plate gap and exhaust stack. If you check out the pit calcula...

First off, welcome. Secondly, a firebox that is at 150% is a BIG red flag. The numbers on the calculator are pretty stringent and ignoring them will lead to problems. Cut it down to 100-105%. Most rolled steel has a certain amount of spring to it as well as “flats” at the beginning and end of the r...

How big is the gap at the seam? A lot of door related issues could be solved right here for you. Since it’s not welded, there is not stress on the metal so your door wont spring out of shape when you cut it. If your gap is tight right now, I don’t see why you wouldn’t use the seam as part of your d...

Been lurking for a while and planning my first smoker build. I sold my reverse flow trailer a few months ago because it was just too big for my purposes. Got my hands a 6' section of 3/16" plate rolled into a 24" cylinder. It is not welded, just rolled. My plan is for a 48" chamber and a 24" firebox...