SmokerBuilder.com

20190825_121348.jpg[/attachmen[attachment=2]00g0g_c4zkDrxDugH_600x450.jpg 01111_1jRk7bHYRL0_600x450.jpg 00g0g_c4zkDrxDugH_600x450.jpg This is an old surgical cart that I am using as a pellet smoker. It has a latch at the top that keeps it closed, but it doesn't hold any tension. I'm going to be add...

Thanks guys. I wanted to keep this as small as possible, but it may not happen. I really only wanted to make the pit towable. Not a full trailer build. The goal was a towable pit with a small footprint that I can still roll into my cargo trailer if I need to. I think I can still make that happen, bu...

I'm building a 24" wide smoker. My question is pretty simple. Can I get away with 36" from wheel to wheel outside measurement, or do I need to go up to 48"? I really want to keep it as narrow as possible, but I also don't want it flipping over in a curve. I know it will also depend on how high up it...

I must add that I'm not sure what you're building but if it is being pulled up and down the road a lot then I'd probably stay away from these. I'm building a pit that will probably end up well under 500 lbs. I don't really want to go the full trailer route. I just want the smoker itself to be towab...

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/ ... leOptOut=1

Anybody ever tried em? I'm thinking they will be just about perfect for what I am building.

So theoretically, I might be able to take my weed burner torch and an infrared thermometer and go all over the tank making sure that I have heated it to the right temps.

I was given a suggestion to try this. Someone told me that if I get the tank really hot with a burnout(which I will need to do at some point anyway) and just let it cool slowly that it will temper the steel to some extent and possibly eliminate door spring, but at the very least it should make it ea...

Drilled holes! That makes perfect sense! I dont think I would have thought of that! That is going to work!

On my tank build I want to have the doors sit flush with the tank which I know will require the lip to be welded on the inside. Is this normally welded from inside the tank? Or is it just tack welded from the outside and then ground smooth so that the doors will close?

dcman (The Czar) wrote:I sure hope you wore safety equipment !!

Most definitely! Lots of sparks and dust with this but I have some very clean cuts. I am wondering though if I should use the thicker wheels when I cut the door to give a touch more clearance when it closes.

Did better on the other end. Took half the time and only used 9 wheels instead of 20 LOL!

Rodcrafter wrote:Not all cut off wheels are made the same that's for sure.

Without a doubt! I noticed that the pattern of the fiber reenforcement in these wheels is not nearly as tight as say the Dewalt wheels or the other brands.

Actually this took a while. Probably the better part of two hours. However a big chunk of that was figuring out the best way to use it without breaking the 4" wheels. It probably took twice as long to cut the first half as it did the second. I used a bunch of wheels, but most of that was breaking th...

I know that most here probably already have plenty of equipment and would have no need for this, but I needed to make some clean cuts on the 120 gallon tank that I am making into a pellet smoker. I was in harbor freight and noticed this little saw. Its nade for tile, but it goes over 12,000 rpm and ...

Pit_Doctor wrote:And he didn't even touch on the centrifugal vortex condrum of the mass air flow sensor.

Whoa hold on now! That sounds like its important! I feel like I need to know about that!

In your case with pellet hoppers I do think that would be a good idea. Its just wasted cook chamber volume and it really does nothing for you as far as improving the pattern of the airflow. I can go into that another time. also you might consider putting the the pellet hopper in the center of the t...

so, I think you will find that in the case of a pellet hopper the BTU content will not be the issue as much as the required air flow needed to get the cook chamber to temp and keeping it there. a standard 36,000 BTU hopper assembly (smoke Daddy one in this case) moves about 130CFM of air. I would t...

Please forgive the ever so crude drawing, but this is the basic concept of what I want to do. Nothing to scale obviously, just to illustrate the desired heat flow.

not an exact number but a good estimate. what are you planning to build? Basically a pellet cooker that will have a cross flow along the lines of the Jambo. Strictly a comp pit so sacrificing cook space by putting the burner inside for the sake of achieving the desired flow. I don't cook a ton of m...

correction... some wood is known to be as little as 6300 BTU's per pound so here is a handy reference to BTU capacity of different species Firewood BTU Ratings Charts for Common Tree Species correction... some wood is known to be as little as 6300 BTU's per pound so here is a handy reference to BTU...

Pit_Doctor wrote:Yes this is defiantly a Frank question.

Would it be appropriate to PM him on this?

dcman (The Czar) wrote:I'm thinking it's possible....

I think so to but I would hate to spend the money build it and then find out that either it can't or that it has to run wide open to handle the load.

No you didn't at all. This is one I definitely didn't expect an instant answer to.

Sorry. I guess I misunderstood what this forum was for. Based on the description on the board index page I figured the mods would move it to the correct place where more eyes would see it.

So what would be the correct part of the forum for this?