Stainless Steel Warming/Proofing Oven Conversion to Pellet s

[revdwheel]

Hello all,

I am new to the forum. I would greatly appreciate design tips on converting this stainless commercial warming (or proofing) oven.

I know I want to insulate it and make it something in the spirit of a Cookshack FEC-100. It has 1.25" clearance for insulation on the outer walls, and then I plan to skin it.

I plan to drop a pellet hopper assembly in this unit.

Should I create the exhaust on the side just above the lowest shelf as the FEC-100 does or put a smokestack elsewhere (top, side, etc)?

I plan to use 1 or 1.5 inch mineral wool high temp insulation, and then possibly skin with 16 gauge steel or stainless steel.


Tips? Warnings? Did I mess up buying this thing for $175?


Thanks,

David

[Rodcrafter]

Glad to have you.

I haven't made one of these but this is what I would do;
I would say the easiest way to deal with the stack is to put it in the top center. Put the pellet pooper down low. Then add some sort of "baffle plate" about 6 inches above that forcing the heat/smoke to the sides which would allow for even exposure throughout.

jm2cw

[revdwheel]

thanks... that is what I pondered... but I notice the cookshack fec-100 places their exhaust out the side, just above the lowest shelf... Is this because all heat rises (updraft)... and the heat goes up first, and then down and out the side where they put their exhaust? I wonder if this eliminates big temp differences from top to bottom.

This unit is like 60 inches from bottom shelf to top shelf. I am torn between going out the top or out the side down low (like fec-100).

Maybe others will help me know... my goal is less than 20 degrees difference between shelf heights if that is possible in such a tall cooker.

[Gizmo]

Stack location effects "dwell time" of the smoke much more than temps. The insulation is your best friend to help it's temp even out.

Check out the Eli's coming thread viewtopic.php?f=17&t=2359

His temp spread was about 20 degrees full height using 2 inch insulation. It's less when you start putting in pangrates full of meat.

Follow RC's advice on the spread plate and you'll be good to go.

[revdwheel]

So.. did Fast Eddy's Cookshack FEC-100 put their exhaust down low and on the side to keep the smoke inside and around the meat longer? Perhaps if this is the case, this is a good remedy for pellet cookers, eh? A common complaint I hear is pellet cookers are a little weak on smokiness.

Is this splitter plate you refer to the baffle? Looks like a "top hat" style baffle, am I right?

Also: the cabinet as a 1.25" clearance for insulation... how much should I try and cram in there? 2.5 inches?

Thanks for input,

David

[Big vin]

Cramming it in will only make it insulate worse, just make sure it is all snuggly in there and use good quality insulation material

[Gizmo]

Big vin is right - don't cram it tight. The tighter you pack it the lower it's "R" value. Maybe cut it to 1-1/2 inch first then only slightly compress the last 1/4 inch just to hold it in place inside the steel walls.

Your idea about the low stack position might be onto something there to help a pellet drive add "smokiness" to the meat.

Look inside an 070 Traeger under the drip pan and you'll see a blast plate that takes the direct heat of the fire pot and spreads out the heat so it hits the rest of the components indirectly. That's what you're going for.

[revdwheel]

Great to have a group to discuss like this...

So, if I have 1.25 inches of room should I just buy the 1.5 inch insulation and tuck it in there? Or 1 inch and leave extra room around it.. or jump up to the 2 inch stuff? Or does anyone know of different sizing?

And another question: this cabinet is made out of stainless steel. The sides are ready made to add insulation to and then skin over. I do not wish to rob interior space unless it is better to do so...is it possible to extend the skins I'll put on the sides high enough create air space above the existing ceiling of the cabinet for insulation and then a new outer skin... and same for the back... can I extend the skins on the side far enough past the edge to leave room for insulation? Then just use angle iron to wrap the corners?

And is it possible to use plain steel and weld to the stainless cabinet or does it all need to be stainless?

Sorry for all the questions.

[Gizmo]

Cheapest way is to buy the bat insulation at 3-1/2 inch and lay it in the wall and slice it to the thickness of the wall. In fact you can cut all the insulation for the whole cooker in the same panel and just stack it up till you need it. Look at the pics in the "Eli's coming" thread and you'll see me doing it there using a piece of an old band saw blade. You can sheet with mild or stainless the cost is very different but it's up to you. I usually silicone the edges then rivet the outer sheeting on. Angle iron is overkill - just have some thin stuff bent in a brake to make your own corners.

[revdwheel]

I am not a metal worker.... at. all!

I have stick welded an old propane tank into a reverse flow, but with lots of supervision.

What is a brake and how do I bend the corners? Or is it cheap to get someone to do this for me?

Also, what type of insulation did you use?

[revdwheel]

OK... so I googled bending brake. Wow. I have never bent any sheet metal. would it be easier to just cut the sheets to size and weld the seams on the corners?

[Carolina gamecock]

I just made a similar design for my old warmer too. These are just some pics I took of it during my first cook in it. I got some more work to do in it like insulating but the majority is finished.





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[Rodcrafter]

That looks like it would work.

[Gizmo]

revdwheel you should practice welding the corner first to see if you can get the result you want. My guess is you'll prefer the thin metal corner then maybe silicone/rivet it in place.

ROXUL is the brand of insulation a couple of us have used but what you are looking for is insulation with a flashpoint of say about 2000F or higher. I believe the ROXUL was 2150F but I threw out the wrapper…

[Clover Ridge Smokers]