Legacy RF 48xl Build With Us! AKA virus corona

[tinspark]

Just curious how you over compressed the door.
Was it with the several funiture clamps that you showed in the picture?

[Mgraves]

Just curious how you over compressed the door.
Was it with the several funiture clamps that you showed in the picture?

Just using the pipe clamps with a hammer! Just slow moved the clamps in. I need to compressed by 1/4 “. 1st pull moved the edge 18.25” to 17.75” which = 1/8” compression. 2 Pulled compressed to 17.125” = 3/8” I did not think that would be over compressed. But I was wrong. Need to flatten it out 1/8”. Might need to use skid steer. The jack for the press is junk.

[Dirtytires]

Wow.....hard to believe pipe clamps had so much force.

I had to use a 20 ton bottle jack and a chain on mine....

[Mgraves]

Been working with cook chamber door 3 days.
Cook camber doors is straight. Cook tank has a hump it! It’s close to .25 “ in the middle! Take a look at pics!

thoughts?

[tinspark]

All I could think of doing is tack welding a temporary flatbar rib on edge forr max tensile strength. Stitch weld on the inside and heat the middle of the bulge. Then take your cutting torch and heat the center at the bulge in a v- wider at the seam edge, tapering towards the middle. You are trying to do two things with this method. Shrink the bulging edge a bit and push the middle down. If you have two guys, its easier. One guy heats and the other guy needs to crank down on a large c-lamp in the middle point of the bulge, and close to the edge. . You may even wanna try a 1/4 gap on the rib away from inside of tank so you can pull it past a bit.(1/4” space between temporary rib and tank). Heat a 4” wide strip on the center of the hump and down its back another 4-6” making a v-shape red hot with a oxy acetylene torch with a neutral flame..while another guy tightens the c-clamp. I’d use a 10-12” clamp for good pressure... Gotta b careful not to kink it down though especially if it gets too hot. ..
I have done this method on other applications several timses with 100% success (cant remember it not working).. You are trying to shrink the metal a bit at that seam as well as push it back down, and back in shape.
I am pretty sure that it is matching the spring back in the middle of the hump, like on that video that I sent the other day..
Should be an easy fix.....Hope this helps!!

[tinspark]

Here is where I am coming from. sorry about double pics. Having trouble with this site for some reason. Apply the heat in a V , The author calls it a hot shot. He then shrinks with air or water, You need to shrink too. But you will also need to push that edge down,,, With a clamp..

[Mgraves]

Thanks for the information! I may have to check that book out.

[Mgraves]

Days and days and days cook chamber door! Damn OCD!

Days spent chain and jack. Pipe clamps! Lifting that door up and down!

Cut some pipe clamps.

Weld the door in placed!


Welded pipe clamps in place. Pulled door in place plus some to Match tank. Heated the crap out of the door!! Let it cool over night. Gained lots! Cut the clamps off moved and repeat the process.

Might get there in a couple days!!

[towtruck]

Lots of work......

[tinspark]

Try this. Take door off and stand a thick flat bar on edge to make a strongback rib (take it off when done). Add 1/2" thick spacers on both ends. Stitch weld the ends so that the thing doesn't fall off which is frustrating $%#&$#%$!!.
use a big C-clamp 10-12". start cranking the c-clamp down in the middle of the door (18" ) apply hot shots as it pulls down 4-6" long shots should do it.. You may need to go past the flat point a bit because of springback. . End spacers attach to tank and 40" long flat bar attach to spacers. See attached hieroglyphic..
I just repaired something similar last week fabricated from 1/4" plate and used my 12" Wilton C-Clamp and it did the trick. Hope it helps
Sorry for the Hieroglyphic, but I thought a visual might work. You can PM me if you'd like..

[Dirtytires]

I have never seen the cut/weld clamp method—definitely looks like a lot of work and is fairly destructive to nice clamp. Appreciate you sharing the new idea.

[Mgraves]

I have never seen the cut/weld clamp method—definitely looks like a lot of work and is fairly destructive to nice clamp. Appreciate you sharing the new idea.

I found this trick on another forum. I would only recommend this if others attempts fail. If fact I was ready to put square doors on. I had looked up jack and chain cook chamber door. The link to this forum pop up and another.

As far the clamps. I agree very destructive, how ever these clamps all had issues so not a loss.

[Mgraves]

Cook chamber door finally matches cook chamber.

Try to picture this! ( I will try to get a pic)

The top edge of the cook chamber door and cook chamber.

The top corners looking at it. Left corner 1/16 gap. Right corner a 1/32 gap. 6” out from left corner 1/8 gap. 6” out from right corner 1/16 gap. Then left of center 3/8 gap tapers to 6” point.

There are few reveal or gap issues on sides. But nothing like the top. Bottoms good.

What is the best way to fix the reveal or gap?

[Mgraves]

Let’s call this day 10.

Many day spent on the cook chamber door.

Cook chamber door fit to cook chamber!

Putting trim on outside of cook chamber!

Hinge put on cook chamber and counter weight tacked in place.

Cook chamber rack slides tacked in.

Warmer door installed!

Firebox door trimmed done.

Cart for cooker started.

[Mgraves]

Better view of counter weight arms. Designed by Frank Cox.

[Big T]

Looks great!!

[towtruck]

Looking good!

[Mgraves]

Day 11.

Putting shoes on smoker!

Should of been easy! Haha! That means extra work.

Caster and caster mounting brackets look good, holes match up!

Crap can’t find the correct nut bolt combo in the shop. So what Found a couple sizes bigger. I think 1/4 to 7/16 no big deal, not running to the store for 16 nuts. There’s a pandemic going on. Drill the plates out easy enough. Bolt fits in caster! bolt fits in mounting plate! (Should of checked caster, plate and new bolt together)

Weld leg stub/ plate onto cooking rack.

Surprise the plate and caster tolerance with the 7/16 bolt is to tight. Rework all 16 hole to increase tolerance. Damn pandemic!

[tinspark]

Looks great man!.. The picture indicates that you got the door issue straightened out..
Lots of work is right! The average joe doesn't comprehend why these things sell for so much money..
Labor intensive. I like the arm on the lid. Looks way better than the standard tube or pipe weighted arm !

[Mgraves]

Day 12

Warmer latch: This should of been easy! But, did but didn’t plan out correctly. The plan was too use latch’s from the essential kit. These are super cool looking latches. The type of latches found on the Mack smoker. I fabricated warming racks and warming shelf early in the build, not too the blueprints. Hung door planned on using the Mack door latches. The latch will not work with what was fabricated. Don’t worry I all ready have plans for the Mack latches. So a day was spent designing and fabricating.

Day 13
Fire box latch same deal as warmer took only 1/2 to install.

Cook chamber door trim on the outside.

Chimney

Cook chamber handle

Day 14

Cook chamber Shelf
dampers for warmer and cook chamber.

[tinspark]

Turned out WAY COOL!! Love the shelf system

[Big T]

[Mgraves]

Day 15

Grease drain moved.

Expand steel add to smoker cart.

Temp gauge added.

All welding Done.


Ash pan build.

Stuff left to do! Clean up and paint.

[towtruck]

Looking good...I like the rod shelf!

[Saskattak]

Well any answers to my build have been answered lol. How did I only just find this now?!?

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