250 Trailer Smoker

[jwsimpleville]

Okay, so I've been reading quite a few threads and seen many good ideas. I recently came into a 250gal propane tank and I'm gonna give it a shot at building myself a large smoker.
Here's a picture of us loading the tank up, had to drive an hour but they aren't the easiest thing to locate here in upstate SC.

I've started some of the cuts and done all the layout for the FB opening and Doors.


Here you can see I'm trying to make my own hinges before finishing the cutting of the doors

As I've recently purchased this Lincoln 180 DUAL, I'm definitley curious on how it will perform since this entire tank is 1/4"
I'm looking foward to the great support and feedback available on this forum. So let's hear it!

[Tom_Heath]

Nice score.

Awesome tank.

No problem on the welder. grind the paint clean, bevel your joints, and make sure you run plenty hot. If you are running flux core even easier.

[The Czar]

F the tank....I love the tractor!!!!

[AustinKnight]

Looking good keep us posted!

Sent from my SGH-T999

[Tom_Heath]

Yes Sir, sure is pretty isnt it.

I am thinking that HQ could use one just like it.

[The Czar]

Yes Sir, sure is pretty isnt it.

I am thinking that HQ could use one just like it.

....we sure could!!!

[jwsimpleville]

So I cut the doors out today and after welding the hinge on I finished cutting the rest of the doors. I figured based on everything I read on other threads that I may have an issue with the doors springing open due to the metal going back to the original flat shape. However the doors did exactly the opposite and they springed closed so now my doors have a high spot in the middle.
Does anybody have the solution to fix this? I was thinking that when I weld the Flat bar around he doors it may flatten the doors back so when closed they sit right.

[Tom_Heath]

Is your flange going on the out side or on the inside of the doors.??

And how much did it spring.??

Should be an easy fix

[jwsimpleville]

The center left & right of the doors sits a full 1/8" higher than the top & bottom edge. I plan on putting the flange on the outside to help this.

[Tom_Heath]

Since you have the tractor.

I think I would tack a couple door stops on the inside for the door to close against.

Then lay the tank on the ground with the center of the doors up.

Place a 4x4 on the center of the doors, apply pressure with tractor till the door is flush.

At this point I would weld my flange to the doors. 1 inch weld 3 inchs between welds. and I would alternate between ends.

Tractor looks pretty new so bleeding off shouldnt be a factor.

I would leave the tractor there until all the welds are fully cool.

if this does not work then we have plan B

Others may have ideas as well. this is the great thing about the site.

[jwsimpleville]

Yeah, lets hear plan B. That tractor belongs to the guy I got the tank from. It really made loading it easy, unloading wasn't difficult as i just tied it to a tree and drove out from under it.
Maybe that approach might work using a come-along wrapped around the tank?
Btw what size flat bar do most folks use, 1/8 or 3/16 thick?

[Tom_Heath]

I like 3/16 but 1/8 will work by all means.

sucks that the tractor isnt yours. thats a bummer.

I think before I used a wrap on the tank, I would make a couple short chains with hooks

Hook them on the edges with the edges on the floor If you can seperate the hinge then use a bottle jack under the chain prob easier to draw a pic for ya. How bout a pic of the tank with the door open and one with the doors closed.

Then we have a better idea what will work and what wont. Room wise.

[jwsimpleville]

Here's a few pics as requested, after looking this morning I've noticed something which only reminds me why you shouldn't work without ample lighting.
Here is the doors open:


Here is the doors closed:



And this picture shows how the bottom of the door came open when the door drawed in:


Before I do anything, I will wait for a few responses and see what method makes sense based on my equipment. (or lack thereof)

[jwsimpleville]

Would it help to take the doors off to flatten them out a bit?

[Clover Ridge Smokers]

Looks like a great project. It seems like we all have door issues during our builds. You are doing the right thing by posting your questions here. I agree with Tom in using your tractor to your advantage is your best bet.

[jwsimpleville]

Only that's not my tractor, so I'm looking for some fixes that folks have used with limited tools. I have winches, ratchet straps, and a come-along. As well as all basic tools and ALOT of woodworking tools.

[Gizmo]

Lay a big a$$ 2 X 8 across the door on the ground and back the pickup over it for some weight... should flatten it a little - either fix it or get it too flat - which is easier to "jack" back to where you want it....

[Tom_Heath]

I would chain around the tank on the left side but dont think I would try it on the right. Not enough strength left on that end. Thats one of those things I would want to see during the action so that I could stop if I felt I was going to do more damage then good.

How thick wall are we working with.??

[jwsimpleville]

1/4" wall thickness

[jwsimpleville]

Ok, so here's a little more progress. I removed the doors after purchasing some 3/16" flat stock so I can install the flanges.
Turns out after installing the flanges I had miscalculated the location of the 1/2" round tubing for the Hinges. Here is a few shots of the left door after the flanges and the hinges are installed.






I welded on a piece of 1" angle for a temporary handle. Haven't quite decided on the handle design yet. Any suggestions?
I am also wondering if I should weld the Hinge to the flange where they overlap, I believe it's plenty strong but I'm just wondering what others do for this.

[jwsimpleville]

Still having a problem with the doors showing a bow in them, at the highest point they are 3/16" gap between the tank &door, any suggestions on fixing the gap?
I've tried ratchet straps and heat and wouldnt recommend that method because it's hard to tell how much heat is to much and when the breaking point of the strap is about to be met.
So any other suggestions?

[Tom_Heath]

With heat your flirting with disaster. IMO.

If not done correctly you could end up with several bends in the door.

I think I would just use the gasket rope and run with it if your gap is no more then 3/16

[jwsimpleville]

Its not I can barely slip a scrap piece of 3/16" flat bar in the highest spot

[Tom_Heath]

There are several ways to attach it,

I like to use high temp silicone ,,,,, a good fat bead then stick the rope in the goo. I then shut the door once. ( not hard though) then leave it open until the stuff sets up fully.

It will be a little tough to shut the first few weeks but then it forms to the gap perfect.


I think Frank did one with rivets ..

and there is a few other ways I have read but cant remember right now.

[jwsimpleville]

There are several ways to attach it,

I like to use high temp silicone ,,,,, a good fat bead then stick the rope in the goo. I then shut the door once. ( not hard though) then leave it open until the stuff sets up fully.

It will be a little tough to shut the first few weeks but then it forms to the gap perfect.


I think Frank did one with rivets ..

and there is a few other ways I have read but cant remember right now.

Please forgive my lack of know-how in this arena, but my next questions are:
Would this rope attach to the door or the cooker?
Would I go around the entire opening like an oven or just use it to fill in the voids?
Where can one get this gasket rope?