Vertical to Reverse Flow Re-Build

Simmonsez2 · Post by **Simmonsez2** » December 21st, 2013, 7:56 pm

Guys, thought I would take a moment to share my re-build since this forum influenced me to take on the project.
I built a vertical smoker about 15 years ago and it did fine until I started seeing all of the great ideas you folks had. I liked the vertical design because I soak a pound of bacon in all kinds of crazy concoctions for a couple of days before the cook and put on the rack above the meat and let it drip on what ever I am smoking. But you guys offered a solution for that as well so out comes the torch (although I am not as steady as I once was) and so began the transformation to a reverse flow smoker.
Now I just took the ideas that fit my needs I am not saying one person was right or wrong so please don't take what I did as siding with anyone.

I did venture out on my own with a couple of items. But that's what makes it fun right.

I hope I can attach the pictures, think there are 15 in all. Comments are with the picture (I hope)

Best Regards and keep the ideas rolling,

I know there are some misspells but I kept renaming the pics when trying re-size them and miss a few corrections.

Good forum, had to share with someone that can appreciate it. My wife could give a chit about a smoker.

Simmonsez2 · Post by **Simmonsez2** » December 21st, 2013, 8:07 pm

Well none of my picture comments made the post.
*The baffle plate is 1/4" plate with 2" angle iron in the center. 1/2" slope to the center and 3/4" drop to the drain end.
*Drain is 1-1/2"
*Heat chamber is 5" below the baffle plate
*Went with 3/8" plate for the door to help eliminate warp
* Installed a tension butterfly damper because my experience with slide gates is rust, heat expansion binding, and a hammer to move.
* Went with stainless angle iron and stainless expanded metal for the cooking rack because I do not cook enough and mild steel rust on me between cooking.
* Used stainless flat bar and stainless expanded metal for the removable rack to save space.
* Dropped the stack inside the chamber 5" Just my opinion that it helps hold heat in the upper section and makes it easier to maintain a consistent heat and initiates the convection effect.
* Added a removable grate on top of the firebox for heating stuff.

Think that was all

bluecatfish · Post by **bluecatfish** » December 21st, 2013, 9:04 pm

Good work. I like the butterfly damper design. Have you cooked since the conversion?

The Czar · Post by **The Czar** » December 21st, 2013, 9:09 pm

Wow

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Post by **Big T** » December 21st, 2013, 10:56 pm

I understand about the wife not caring, that's a fine rig you've got there.

Puff · Post by **Puff** » December 21st, 2013, 11:12 pm

Absolutely great work... Looks like the effort paid off. There's lots of change there...good question too, have you used it since making these mods?

jafo28 · Post by **jafo28** » December 21st, 2013, 11:24 pm

Looks awesome! Post some pics with some meat on there.

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » December 22nd, 2013, 6:44 am

Nice work and good looking conversion - ought to work just fine!
You might weld some handles on the grate on top of the FB so it's easier to grab to set off and on….. jm2cw

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » December 22nd, 2013, 8:05 am

Very nice! Should serve you well. I bet you'll even use it a little more often now.

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Simmonsez2 · Post by **Simmonsez2** » December 22nd, 2013, 9:21 am

The handles are a good suggestion thanks, funny how you miss the obvious towards the end of a project. Have not cooked on it yet.
Did put a fire in her though to check heat distribution and damper setting. Everything looked good, used a laser temp gun and all the outside surface of the cook chamber was fairly consistent with a low damper setting and the wood last quite awhile. Will shoot a thermal image and post in the next few weeks.
The hole in the roof is where she once stood.

I do have a couple of questions;
Do you put the water in the baffle plate or do you put a pan somewhere?
Has anyone tried the paint on insulation?

Regards

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » December 22nd, 2013, 10:06 am

I haven't used a water pan in years but a disposable alum cake pan 1/2 full of water would be a good test method - you may decide you don't need one at all.

I would be concerned about spray-applied insulation having the proper temp rating. Most of those are epoxy-based and don't go that high…. but I'm no chemist ….

Rev.Mike · Post by **Rev.Mike** » December 22nd, 2013, 12:01 pm

Simmonsez2 · Post by **Simmonsez2** » December 22nd, 2013, 2:23 pm

Thanks for the input, I get several wild hogs each year and they are not as fat. I have been using a water pan and it seems to help. I tried injecting but water seemed to do the trick. I have not had the internet long so you guys probably have some moisture tricks I have not read yet.
This is the insulation I was looking at for the cooking chamber it should not exceed this range advertised.

Nansulate® Translucent High Heat
High Performance Protective Thermal Insulation & Corrosion Prevention Coating

Patented Technology

For Pipes, Tanks, Metallic Surfaces

Product Details

Temperature Extremes: -40F to 400F (-40C to 204C)
Application Temperature Range: 40F to 212F (4C to 100C)

Going to re-build something just wells to go all out huh. Cheaper that all those freaking shoes in my closet.

shskr · Post by **shskr** » December 22nd, 2013, 5:34 pm

Great ideas on here that i'm thinking for mine.

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 23rd, 2013, 7:39 am

I don't use water in my cooker anymore. It doesn't seem to help the meat gain moister in the process. It does put a lot of moisture in the cooker only causing rust in places that get the hottest. So I just stopped using a water pan.

Nice work you did there. I'm surprised you didn't use the same type grate inside the FB as you did on top. It looks so solid, those flat bars going side to side would last a very long time.

I like it a lot!

Simmonsez2 · Post by **Simmonsez2** » December 30th, 2013, 11:20 am

Well I tried it out and I must say the reverse flow design is very effective. I am glad I found this forum, I think I will stick with this one for awhile.
Took the dogs down in the bottoms and they bayed a sow with some pigs. I picked out a nice shoat for the trial run.
Cooked the two back hams (weighed 6 lbs each), one with the bone in, one with the bone removed. Naturally had to add an Oklahoma prime rib for appetizers while I had it fired up.
Maintained a fairly consistent 225 degree with a very low damper setting. Not to bad on the wood usage either for an 8 beer cook or 4-1/2 hours, not sure how you guys time it. Put the probe in the full ham, wrapped when reached 160 and pulled off the smoker at 190 and in the cooler for an hour.
Yep, think I will used this one a little more.

Regards,

bluecatfish · Post by **bluecatfish** » December 30th, 2013, 2:54 pm

Fine looking grub! There is a lot of those wild shoats around here. I think I will try to get me one and try some of those hams!

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 30th, 2013, 4:09 pm

The Czar · Post by **The Czar** » December 30th, 2013, 4:29 pm

I like it!!! So you know the rules… The Czar must get samples…

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Post by **Big T** » December 30th, 2013, 7:56 pm

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » December 30th, 2013, 9:11 pm

Man that looks tasty! I'll take the OK prime rib.

Anthony11 · Post by **Anthony11** » July 18th, 2014, 6:49 am

Great insights from all. I usually painted the parts subjected to moisture. It is of great help to an extent. But I think what really worked for me was the support from the professionals at http://www.automaticcoating.com. I got a fusion bond epoxy done

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