Great stack explanation Gizmo! I've always wondered about those "funnel stacks" on those old steam locomotives. As my daddy used to say "when you open that steam valve something is going to happen!" He spent many years working on steam powered oil drilling rigs.
We followed the pit calc. First sized as 6 and then sized as 4. So if I am understanding the reason the smaller pipe is taller and capable of working is due to the increased draft or vaccumn created from the taller height? Wow a lot more science than I would have thought in building a smoker.
Started the smoker up for its first real burn. Surprising how fast it gets hot considering its only 18 degrees outside. There was a little bit of condensation leaking out from the front cover, but that stopped after about 10 minutes. Is the concept to get a bed of coals or to keep the fire big? When there is a lot of wood in there you have to max out the air to keep it from getting too smokey.
WOW that's a fire! I'm no pro but looks like your fire is to big to me I have a 275 gal fuel tank RFS and my fires are half that size. Have you watched the video on building a fire in a RFS? I would start with 1 chimney of charcoal and 1 fist size split of wood, then let it level out for 35 mins then add 2 more splits and see where your temps are? Then you won't warp your fire box by getting it to hot and you will have a more manageable fire. But i'm sure some one will be along shortly with some pro advise.
I'd say your fire is way too big, I'm not sure that you'll be able to control your temperature with a fire that size. As DWS said, you should watch the video on building a fire in a RF, it will give you a pretty good idea on how to go about running your fire. It will take you a few times to figure out how your cooker reacts to adjustments and adding fuel but once you figure it out it'll be just like riding a bike.
This will sound a bit different as I have only lit my 275 tank to provide some heat while working outside, so far. I've started it with two chimneys of charcoal and one they where about 1/3 white, added 3 splits of oak about 18" long and 3" around ( soda/beer can) about 35-40 minutes added 2 more splits.
That fire, when roaring, was about 1/2 the size. Warping the firebox was not too much of a concern, I was looking for any gaps in my seams and just measuring temps under variable conditions. The fire flames in my box reached across the baffle plate at times showing up in the gap, 57" away for a few seconds in the beginning. Once controlled I could get 400 degrees air temp in the tank...but it was full tilt burning
Make no mistake, there ain't no powder in this Puff ! And... I'm not really a crazy person but I play one in real life
Now that he is done with his build I am starting mine. Link to BBQ Pit Calculator
18x18x28 with a 14x14x16 Fire box. Reverse flow with a Baffle plate. Decided to make it rectangular to maximize the space inside. Just a small patio model to play around with on the weekends. 3/16" thick.
It sure seems small compared to the one just finished. I have it tacked up and just need to figure out how or what I am going to do for the front door. Any suggestions
I agree... Not gigantic to eat wood and sized well for family cooks. I brought home a compressor tank, 80 gal. But my next build is one like this. I loved Gizmos unit. Just so ideal and you never need to go hunting for tanks. Just pick a size and start. Look forward to seeing your progress
Make no mistake, there ain't no powder in this Puff ! And... I'm not really a crazy person but I play one in real life
Tanner that looks great! The dimensions are almost the same as the one i'm building, except my CC is vertical instead of on it's side. Here's a link to my build thread, viewtopic.php?f=13&t=3457
what is the hole in the end of the cook chamber is that for the stack?
That is for the stack. I am going to use schedule 10 in a 2.5 inch diameter. I read that it works better closer to the grill surface but looking at it I wish I went a little higher.
It's not too late to change it and I agree that it should be higher. I also know that a lot of guys put them down low and that they work just fine so I think you'll be fine either way.
My brothers stack is pretty close to the rack. Mine is sticking through the top far enough to weld it on. His builds up what looks like a thick creosote on everything above the stack. He burns it clean too. Nice thin blue smoke. Mine looks like a seasoned pan.
So one smoker is finished and mine is coming along pretty well. Not done in time for the Superbowl, but maybe by next weekend.
Still have to finish some welding and I am going to add a shelf in front of the doors and also down below a box for wood storage. A handle on the side for pushing it around and a mount for the digital thermometer that I have Does anybody have a good idea on the best way to make a hole that wont leak for a digital thermometer probe.
I drilled some 1/4 holes in my CC and welded a 1/4 nut on the inside of the CC. I just put a 1/4 bolt in it when not in use and it doesn't leak too bad when I have my leads through the hole. I have heard some guys put a piece of rope gasket in the hole to stop it from leaking and I used to put a piece of metal duct tape over the leads but I don't do that anymore.