1st build, 64 gallon lp tank RF vertical design ?

[Gizmo]

The bottom grate should be set at the middle of the tank height. In my center feed design the top of the firebox had the throat cut out of the center and a second shadow plate set over it on legs to provide a path for airflow while dispersing heat before it hits the main BP. In other words you'll have 2 steps of heat reduction. These legs were 3" on Edgar with 2 more inches up to the BP and the BP was about 2 inches below the bottom grate. If you've been keeping track that's 7 total inches out of the 8.5 that you have to work with on a 19" tank. Good fit. You may want to add a "neck" to the height of your FB where it seals against the bottom of your CC tank just to give you a little more to work with.

Best use of your height would be to set the top grate with an 8 inch gap under it down to the top of the bottom grate. With that spacing you'll be able to put butts on there in the 9 pound range max plus most brisket packers. imho

[mag1]

Thanks for the info. Gizmo, I'll see how it works out. Shelve's, what thickness are they typically made from? 3/4 - 1" angle iron with expanded metal for grates? any other suggestions?

[Gizmo]

I use 1/2" square tube and weld 3/4 - 9 - flat expanded steel to that on top. Then I slide those in on 1" X 1" angle with tip rails along the top edge - so it creates a 1" gap for each grate.

[mag1]

Thanks for that info. Back to the baffel plates and spacing, is this more in line with what you where talking about? Still have to make some other adjustments. See attachment. (hopefully it shows up ok)

On the 1st baffel plate/heat deflector, how long would you make it, and does it go all the way to the sides, or do you leave a 1" gap or so around the long ends? (not sure if that made sence)

Thanks for all the help.

[Gizmo]

I built mine 1 inch oversize in all directions so it would cover the throat opening and still go past it by an inch in every direction. At this location you aren't as concerned about air transfer as you are radiant heat transfer - that overhang stops much more of it to help spread the heat better.

[mag1]

Got it. Thanks

[mag1]

Couple of ?
- Another grate ?, on a 41" spread (I'm thinking the grate will be 41 x 18 for my bottom, and 41 x 15 o yr so on the top, do you need to put a center support on the frame?
- on the BF plate location to bottom of the bottom grate, can it be closer to 4" so if I wanted to grill, I could us the bf plate as a base for charcoal, or does this not work well?
Thanks again

[Fiveflat]

good call on going horizontal. My very first shot at a smoker was a 100# propane tank and I made it vertical. It was more or less a UDS at the end of the day. I had always wished I made it horizontal.

It was given to the "estranged's" dad for a birthday present a few years back. Now, I'll never see it again...

[Gizmo]

A middle frame member under the grate running from side to side might not be a bad idea for a 41" spread.

Burning a fire on a solid metal plate (BP) wouldn't work too well.
The fire should be able to draw air from directly underneath if possible.
Maybe a replacement charcoal grate that you swap out for the BP when you need it….. ?

[Big T]

My racks are 42'' long, I built the frames from 1'' square tubing and they're solid. I was thinking of a center support before I made them but there's no need for it.

[Gizmo]

I can see how a 1" square tube frame on that spread wouldn't need it….

[mag1]

Thanks for the input. You guys have been very helpful.

- Another ?, Where do you guys get most of your bar stock/tubing/expanded metal from? We have a "speedy metals" and I need to see where else I can price stuff from.

[mag1]

Made some tweaks, have to finalize a couple of things yet. I seen another larger centerfeed RF that had a baffel on the inlet from the FB to the CC. Is that needed? Any other thoughts?

[Gizmo]

The intermediate BP sure helps eliminate the hot spot you'll have without it….

[mag1]

Do I need more than the one air vent on the FB door? it is oversized currently.

[Rodcrafter]

I've made them both ways, with just one air inlet and with two. I like the way two works better not that it has to have two. But the point is that if the wind is blowing toward the inlet, great I can close it a little if needed. But if the wind is blowing the other way it seems to draw a vacuum on the inlet. So if I put two in I can work with the wind issues no matter what.

jm2cw

[mag1]

Good point. Just got an e-mail from my buddie, we are going to change the FB to a circular one. We have a 3rd tank, so might as well cut that one up, and save $ on steel. He had some other good idea's, so I will be tweaking the desing over the next week or so.

[mag1]

Here's the latest design change, still have some things to work out.

[Rodcrafter]

[Rev.Mike]

[mag1]

Quick ? on the fire box door? Can I just use a 1/4" plate for the door with a gasket on the one side to seal, or do I need to add 1/2" angle iron for the seal to sit up against, along with stiffening the door?

Thanks

[Gizmo]

I've done it both ways and I prefer the whole frame method. That door has to handle some serious radiant heat - might as well make it last…..

[dwwantasmoker]

[mag1]

Does anybody use fire brick in there fire boxes? Would there be any benifit's? Buddy would like to do so, so I went back to version 2, resized the FB to accomidate the brick. It's getting pretty big. Here's a screen shot, I haven't updated the frame for the casters yet, still old design.

[Rodcrafter]

The brick will make it last longer and you won't loose any heat from the sides of it. Now you will have to really seal it up because of holding the heat so well, it could run hot if it is still allowing air in the FB when you reach temp. You need to be able to choke it down very well if need be. Then allow air out the CC as desired to make it work smoothly.

jm2cw