New guy needs advice

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 20th, 2014, 8:41 am

Good morning, I'm about to embark on my first build. I've scrounged a propane tank ,even came half full. I will be transferring the propane to a few empty ones today. I don't know the volume yet but it's about 20-22 inches in dia and four feet long, about the size of my 60 gallon air compressor tank. I will follow the dimensions for the fire box size, chimney, etc. from the calculator site I found on this site.
I have a few Questions:
Are the cooking chamber volume numbers for the calculator the volume above the reverse flow plate or the whole tank?;
How far from the bottom of the tank do you weld the reverse flow plate, 1/4 the dia, 1/3 the dia, doesn't matter, does matter?;
I see some chimneys are into the cooking chamber quite a way, is there a reason for this, if so how far should the chimney protrude into the top of the tank?;
Should there be a drain pipe for the area below the reverse flow plate as well as the drain pipe for the plate?;
I noticed a few builds have a seal material around the chamber lid/lids is it necessary or beneficial to put the rope seal on the chamber door?;
What is the best way to cut the tank for the doors and firebox, I don't have a plasma cutter but I do have an angle grinder and a recip saw. I can borrow a cutting torch if need be.

I'm sure I'll have a lot more questions once I get going on this.
I'm not a welder but have picked up a stick and a mig welder and this can be my welding 101 course.

Thank you for any help and advice you can offer.

Al Miles

Post by **Tom_Heath** » December 20th, 2014, 9:00 am

Welcome to th3 site al.. glad you have found us.

Yes the whole tank volume

It depends on alot of things on the baffle but around 3 or 4 in most of the time.

Some like the stack mid ways some dont. Depends on the actual design

Below the plate can drain into the firebox in my opinion

To work best I like a tight unit ....... as far as the gasket goes..

For plasma, where are you located. Someone may be able to help ya out if we are close. But No you dont have to have one.

Many will agree with me..... the best bet is to look at smokerplans.net and aee if there is a set of plans for you tank size. We have included all the tough calculations along with the best of the best on past designs. Again not a have to thing but evwryone that has used them have sqid it wqs worth it. Plus,,,,,,,you will have phone aupport if needed. Even if there is not alan listed we can get ya fixed up.

Welcome and looking forward to seeing another build.

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 20th, 2014, 2:15 pm

I agree with PD on every thing. I would like to add on the BP placement, it seems to work very well if you will allow the top of the FB to be continued into the CC as the BP. Cutting the throat opening in the FB as high as you can. This allows you to keep the BP as low as possible in the CC. You want to have 4" of space above the BP to the bottom of the lower grate. This is an ideal not a requirement, just saying don't get worried if it doesn't quite work out that way. Welcome to the crew. Cutting the tank with discs works fine, it is a bit slow but better than a torch.

Making memories.

Post by **Big T** » December 20th, 2014, 4:44 pm

I agree on purchasing a set of plans also.

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » December 20th, 2014, 6:02 pm

Sounds like the fellers got you headed right!

Post by **Tom_Heath** » December 20th, 2014, 8:01 pm

Maybe if s1 had bought plans his rig would be.............. oh nevermind....LMAO

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 21st, 2014, 7:53 am

Thank you for the welcome and the replies. I'm from Pender Island BC. I discovered my tanks are 58.5 imperial gallons, about 70 US gallons.
Of course that led to more questions.
If the top of the firebox is part of the baffle plate does it create a hotter spot above that part of the plate than the rest of the plate, as oppossed to having the baffle plate above the firebox? If so is it enough to worry about? I can see it would be a tidier way to build.
I have a piece of 1/4" checker plate I was thinking of using for the baffle plate and the firebox, putting the checker in and the smooth side out. Is checker plate the same steel as plain flat plate save the checker? Like I said I'm not a welder and know little about steel. I don't know if it's harder for abrasion resistance or not.
I see some builds have an insulated firebox are they double walled or have firebrick in them or? Are they insulated to keep the fire hot in cold weather or to keep the firebox from burning things like trailer tires?
I saw one build with a two piece baffle plate and a piece of channel down the middle to act as a grease trough. Does that help prevent fires, aid clean up, or?
Once again, thank you.
Al

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 21st, 2014, 9:34 am

The BP does get hotter at the FB end, some people put an"shadow plate" (Gizmo's) name for it, about an inch above it about 1 foot long so it dampers the "hot spot" effect. As for the "checker plate" some people call it "tread plate" others call it "diamond plate"
I would put it with the smooth side up, so it would be easy to scrape the burned drippings from the BP when cleaning.

Making

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » December 21st, 2014, 12:58 pm

And PD, if the masters had more time at HQ, the plan would be in use!

Post by **Tom_Heath** » December 21st, 2014, 2:29 pm

Hehehe....... I just poked tthe bear. Lmao. I feel your pain S1. Right there with ya brother.

Pennywise · Post by **Pennywise** » December 22nd, 2014, 7:10 am

Welcome Miles. I didn't see anyone answer your question about the trough in the center of the BP. I know the design your referring to, and it was a very sweet addition indeed. he angled his BP slightly towards center and added a trough to allow run off. I wish I would have thought of that myself.

I didn't though. I used 1/4" steel for my BP and angle iron to keep the grease on top of the baffle, then I plan to lower the front of my trailer and use a garden hose to encourage the grease to my tube.

Your going to find that no MATTER how much prep work you do, no matter how many threads you read, half way though someone will post an improvement/add on that will make you want to build another right after your done with this one or incorporate into your current build.

It's a coronation process into fabricating your own cooker that separates all of us from the animals.

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 22nd, 2014, 7:35 am

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 22nd, 2014, 8:02 am

Thanks,
I got the propane out of the tank yesterday and managed to fill a 100, a 40 and two 20 pound cylinders. I have the tank in the back of my truck and will be very nervous until I've cut it. I ran water through it for a couple of hours but it still has a bit of the odour. If you don't see another post from me = I blew myself up.

Pennywise · Post by **Pennywise** » December 22nd, 2014, 8:10 am

LMAO! Fill it with soapy water and let it sit in the sun for a week. Thats what I did, and I cut an entire end off mine with a plasma.

OK I made my dad do it while I was 34 miles away in case of explosion. I couldn't risk the lineage, but you get my point.

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 22nd, 2014, 11:28 am

Lol, thinking ahead PW. Or was it thinking of your head?

Making memories.

Pennywise · Post by **Pennywise** » December 22nd, 2014, 12:46 pm

My big one for once!

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » December 22nd, 2014, 7:41 pm

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 23rd, 2014, 7:46 am

Hmmm I don't quite understand gizmo's shadow plate,is there a pic?

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 23rd, 2014, 8:02 am

There is pics, where I'm not sure. But if you imagine the BP full sized and in place, then another just like it but only on the FB end extending only one foot into the CC about an inch above the other. This keeps the FB from causing a hot spot on the first portion of the BP. You can put it in loose so you can take it out to clean under it whenever you want to.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 23rd, 2014, 7:59 pm

OK, I get it, thanks.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 24th, 2014, 8:03 am

I haven't cut the tank yet, the trouble with having a job. I get Christmas and Friday off, I don't think my neighbours want to hear me grinding away on Christmas so maybe Friday.
My build plans are changing daily after an hour or so a day reading posts of others' builds.
If the fire is better lower than higher is it better to make a firebox tall? I was going to make mine cube shaped but I can go taller or longer or wider.
I notice some are puting a shelf on the front just below the door. I've never cooked on one of these, would a small shelf get in the way of accessing the CC on a 20-22" dia tank? I'm planing my support frame and wonder if I should allow for a shelf.

bstory · Post by **bstory** » December 24th, 2014, 10:28 am

You will want a shelf for sure!!!! Make sure you make it little wider than your door so you can put you can put your beverage down when opening the door

THEFERMANATOR · Post by **THEFERMANATOR** » December 24th, 2014, 10:32 am

I didn't put the shelf in front of the CC opening, but put one on each end. I have no regrets for not putting the shelf across the front of it.

Post by **Rodcrafter** » December 24th, 2014, 1:24 pm

I like having a shelf in front of both of mine. I would suggest making it at least 4" lower than your handles of the CC door, and wide enough to set foil pans on it.

Making memories.

Miles · Post by **Miles** » December 29th, 2014, 7:16 pm

Once again, thanks.
I managed to get enough time to cut the bungs and fittings off the tank, I didn't blow up. Quite a pain as the tank came off a truck and all the fittings were at a 45 degree angle. I have some rather large holes.
The tag welded on the tank said 58.5 imperial gallons which converts to 70 US gallons. But it's only 20 inches wide and four feet long, even it the ends were flat and not rounded that would not be 58 imp gallons. Now that I have it with all the brackets and pipes cut off it's smaller than I'd wanted but what the heck I'll go ahead with the build, it's likely perfect.The steel checker plate I have turns out to be 3/16", only 1/4 at the raised parts. Is that thick enough for the firebox? I could weld a few pieces on the insie to resist warpage.I have enough to make the firebox and have a piece of 1/4 large enough for the baffle plate.

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