First RF Build

Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » February 10th, 2016, 12:20 pm

I dug my tank out of the trees (literally) and got it cleaned off. I would like to keep the "feet" in tact. Doing that I see a challenge. There is a bung at 12 o'clock centered left to right. I've read here that if you can avoid these while building it will save alot of heartburn. Is there an option that would allow me to keep the feet or do I rotate the tank 180 remove the feet and start there. I'm thinking (sorry, a lot of "newbie" in me!) if I do rotate the tank I'll position the FB high enough to remove the end bungs keeping the CC opening low. Hopefully the pic is attached so you can see what I'm describing.
Thoughts?

: IMG_0431.JPG (50.47 KiB) Viewed 1041 times

SAFETYHARBORREDNECK · Post by **SAFETYHARBORREDNECK** » February 10th, 2016, 1:18 pm

Welcome!
I'm no expert,but yeah,IMO, if you rotate it,you can get rid of the end bung and use the top bung(now on bottom)for a drain.
Someone else may have a better idea,so we'll see what they say.
In the meantime,good luck and take lots of pictures!

Post by **Rodcrafter** » February 10th, 2016, 6:58 pm

As far as I'm concerned as long as the fitting doesn't get in the way of a cut or the door flange you could leave it. It would be easier to clean the inside if it were removed though. The main reason I jumped on this thread was what you said about the fire box here after referred to as FB. The FB to cook chamber opening aka throat opening determines the placement of the FB. Or at least the way the pit calc and others put these things together it works that way. What I mean by that is the throat is measured from the bottom of the CC then the top of the opening becomes the elevation of the top of the FB, and BP if you're making an RF.
I hope that helps more than hurts.

jm2cw

Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » February 10th, 2016, 8:56 pm

I'd leave the feet as is...easier to plug the bungs then try to cut and reattach the feet.

And rodcrafter is on track.....run the calculator and watch your placement.

Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » February 11th, 2016, 9:23 am

Thanks guys. The way it looks if make the door cut 1.5" past 12 o'clock the hole can be avoided. Door might be a little high when open but maybe i can get creative with the overall cooker hgt and use the bung for a door stop! Been on the calculator and with your explanation now I understand the relationships of FB to CC/BP.
RC you mentioned cleaning the inside. Is there anything special I need to do to get the lp tank "sanitary"? other than getting a good burn in? If there is something I need to do before cutting now's the time.
I'm going to order some plans soon. Just trying to visualize the thing and maybe avoid some heartburn....in the build that is.
Thanks again,
SH

forty_creek · Post by **forty_creek** » February 11th, 2016, 12:49 pm

Fill it with water and some dishwashing soap. Then drain it.
These guys got you on the right track. I was in your shoes. It took me a few days to prolly weeks to get somewhat of a grasp. My advice take your time.

Drankin, Smokin and Dreamin

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Post by **Rodcrafter** » February 11th, 2016, 9:36 pm

What I meant by cleaning is as time goes by smoke will build up on the inside of the walls and door. You can use a wide putty knife or similar tool to slide over those surfaces to keep that stuff from falling onto your food. Or you can have it good and hot and spray the inside with the water hose or pressure washer. I know some folks believe all that stuff is seasoning but if you see black specs in you food you will want to do some periodic cleaning. I'm not saying make it shine like bare metal, just take the loose stuff off. As for the bung it could hold some of that stuff if you don't use water.

Making memories.

bluecatfish · Post by **bluecatfish** » February 11th, 2016, 10:44 pm

forty-creek are you saying drain it before you cut into the tank? I have always been under the impression you left it full to make the first cuts. I ask because I need to cut my tank when it warms up.

forty_creek · Post by **forty_creek** » February 11th, 2016, 11:01 pm

We have cut them both ways. The last tank had no odor. We field it with soap and water basically full. Over one of the openings I flashed it no flame. So we drained it and started cutting

Drankin, Smokin and Dreamin

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Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » February 12th, 2016, 12:33 am

Current wisdom is just to burn it out before you cook.

forty_creek · Post by **forty_creek** » February 12th, 2016, 2:20 pm

Yea, that's what I did once I was through with the cooker itself and ready to season it.
I thought he was referring to getting started on cutting it.

Drankin, Smokin and Dreamin

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bluecatfish · Post by **bluecatfish** » February 12th, 2016, 9:45 pm

I was referring to getting started with cutting the tank. Thanks for the information.

Stewart · Post by **Stewart** » February 14th, 2016, 9:00 am

Your at where i was. Somebody went bung happy on my tank as they were everywhere. Literally. There was no way to get away with not cutting them out and welding in new patches. As for cutting i washes dirt out a few times and used a stud saw our plasma picked up too much moisture and wouldn't cut. Go slow and think it thru good luck.

soccerguy83 · Post by **soccerguy83** » February 15th, 2016, 10:44 am

Mine is bung happy as well! I have 12 in my tank not including the pressure switch bung on the front right where a thermometer would go nicely. I'm going to have to cut mine out and weld them.

Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » February 15th, 2016, 10:47 pm

Just a thought but consider that a "free" tank is sometimes pretty expensive.

Take into account time and materials to fix it and you might find that a different tank/pipe is a better option.

At the very least, it would cut it open before you fix anything just in case the inside is rusted beyond use.

Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » April 19th, 2016, 8:50 am

I'm back into the swing of things and have accumulated the steel. It took some time but I got most of it for free. It's great to be patient! I've got my sheet of 1/4" at the local high school getting cut (remember my favorite word is free!) on the CNC table

Question: I have a sheet of 3/16" will that be ok for the BP? Should I hold out for 1/4 ?
Cutting starts this weekend! Pics to follow.

mp4 · Post by **mp4** » April 19th, 2016, 12:55 pm

3/16 is good for a lot of stuff, but I would hold out for 1/4 for the baffle plate.

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forty_creek · Post by **forty_creek** » April 19th, 2016, 3:06 pm

No less than 1/4" on BP

Drankin, Smokin and Dreamin

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Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » April 19th, 2016, 3:51 pm

Is it because of potential warping? My tank is 22" dia which will put my BP somewhere in the 16 - 18" range. If I made a 2 pc BP with an angle iron support/drain down the center could I get away with the 3/16? Don't get me wrong, if the 1/4 is "mission critical" I'll hold out. But if the 3/16 will work......Bird in hand is worth 2 in the bush. Did I say I was patient??? Guess not so much huh!
Thanks for letting me bounce some ideas!

mp4 · Post by **mp4** » April 19th, 2016, 5:56 pm

Warpage to some degree, but mostly to moderate temperature swings. The thicker the BP (within reason) the better it can smooth out temperature variations.

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Post by **Big T** » April 19th, 2016, 9:40 pm

Post by **Rodcrafter** » April 20th, 2016, 6:25 am

Yep, the main goal is to distribute the heat across the CC. I make mine 3/8", with a shadow plate also of 1/4" but you don't have to. I don't have a hot spot.

And yes, I like heavy!

jm2cw

Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » April 20th, 2016, 9:38 am

Thanks guys. You've convinced me! I'll go looking for some 1/4" for my BP. I'm so used to my light weight "big box" smoker....anything is heavier than that!
Next silly question....Is there a sweet spot for chimney material thickness? or will I be good with anything as long as I use the dia/length recommendations the Pit Calc gives? The reason I ask I have access to a "drop pile" at an auto exhaust shop. I'd have to be choosy and only want to use new. I've seen up to 4" dia new pipe in the pile! What's your experience..Thick or thin wall?

Post by **Pete Mazz** » April 20th, 2016, 1:51 pm

Doesn't really matter but go with 4".

Sand Hiller · Post by **Sand Hiller** » April 26th, 2016, 9:01 am

Living by the rule of "no pic-never happened" See below.
I got started this weekend. The door stayed amazingly true after cut out

. I tacked the trim. It'll need a little shaping to fit the way I want with some sort of seal. Ran out of O2 so my progress came to a halt. Gave me a chance to dream a little on hinges and a handle (and determine course of action for the bungs). More soon!

SmokerBuilder.com

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