1st Build - 150 Gallon RF

[wade0510]

So, I'm looking to build a reverse flow from a brand new 150 gallon tank I acquired. I have the basis of my design, which will include a 24"x24"x24" cube for the firebox, but I'm lost on the reverse flow deal.

I've seen some that have a pipe in the bottom that runs out the end of the cook chamber and the firebox is welded to that. I've seen others that have something like a drip pan welded into the bottom and that establishes the flow of the heat.

What is your design? If it's pipe, how big? From what I've seen, it looks to be a 4-5" piece of pipe. I'm open to any and all suggestions, just need some input from someone who has built one before.

[Pete Mazz]

Check out my sig in Smoker Terminology. Then head to the PitCalc and run your numbers.

And Welcome!!

[wade0510]

I appreciate that info, very helpful as far as my biggest question within the two pit calculators I've already run, which was, "What the #$%* is a throat?"

I guess my biggest question is.... is it better to use sheet/plate and make a solid baffle? I've seen on other forums guys using pipes to direct the flow (same size tank), but they never mentioned how big they were, etc.

If I go the plate/sheet metal route and make a solid baffle (which some have suggested to also make this double as a water pan), do I need to be able to tune that at all, or just cut the throat open and let it go?

Sorry in advance for asking so many newbie questions, but I've got this vision in my head of how I want this thing to go, but I also want to make sure I'm doing things the "right" way to avoid major issues with lack of heat, etc.

[Pete Mazz]

Use a baffle plate (BP) and make the gap at the end the same or just a bit smaller than the throat. Most here don't se a water pan. You can just let the fat drip onto he BP and smoke up. Use a 1" high or so grease dam at the end of your BP to prevent any grease from running over the edge and into the bottom of the CC.

[Rodcrafter]

Welcome to the crew


Making memories.

[wade0510]

Use a baffle plate (BP) and make the gap at the end the same or just a bit smaller than the throat. Most here don't use a water pan. You can just let the fat drip onto he BP and smoke up. Use a 1" high or so grease dam at the end of your BP to prevent any grease from running over the edge and into the bottom of the CC.

Exactly what I wanted to hear. I have never used water when smoking before, and have never tasted a difference from people who do use water. Ended up having to work a baseball playoff game after spring practice yesterday, so I didn't get to cut into the tank, but plan to at least mark it for cutting today, and possibly cut tomorrow. Should I roll the tank upside down, so the valve fittings and such are on the bottom? Obviously those will be plugged, but just curious if there is a certain way I should go about it.

[wade0510]

Another question as I'm designing the firebox (My brother-in-law is a machinist/welder, so he will be building the firebox for me). The throat calculations on Feldon's calculator only give half-moon and round calculations. Is a rectangular throat okay? I would have to assume so as long as its the same area, but I want to be sure.

[TexasSmoke]

As Long as the Sq In is the same you are good to go just don't for get the grease dam. Also Pete Mazz calculators have a trapezoid calculator that works good I just punched in my numbers from the Smokerbuilder calc. and adjusted the shape until it fit my application the way I wanted.
By the way Good Luck and most of all Have Fun. Like everyone say's If u follow the Calculator you will have a great smoker

[Squiggle]

Welcome to the party dude, looks like you're on your way to a wicked smoker. Just remember, as DC says, pics or it didn't happen!

[wade0510]

Another quick question... I know I have to remove paint to weld, but do I have to blast this tank before I actually use it? Or, can I just paint over what's already there?

[TexasSmoke]

Some people me included, after cutting out the door started a figher inside the tank to get it heated up and blasted it with water. helps the paint peel off. You dont want to paint over the existing paint because it isn't heat rated paint and will flake off over time taking your new paint with it then your smoker will begin to rust and shorten its life. While I stripped mine down originally its been months of work. and now there is a thin coat I'll have to sand off before I paint. I kinda just wished I had waited until the end to remove existing.

[mp4]

Good advise TexasSmoke. I was going to say the same thing...build it, use it a few times to make sure you have it working the way you want, then blast & paint.

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[Big T]