Legacy RF 48xl Build With Us! AKA virus corona

[Mgraves]

This build was going to be a class project! I had planned to do the build with us program so Tom and Frank could be with class as we build. However, the Chinese virus had different plans. Do to the social distancing policy; no students are to be on campus. Which means the many workers we should of had was cut down to two workers.

Moving 1/4 inch plate is more challenging. We are using the cut the file, with the Legacy build. Along with the JD squared mad 4x4 table. The plan was to have students edit the file, move stuff around in CAD, then send the file it to the plasma table and cut everything out. Thanks Chinese virus for destroying that plan.

[Dirtytires]

We all understand your frustration as this has affected all of us in almost every aspect of our daily lives. Tho it is regrettable that your students are not able to fully experience and learn from this project, keeping everyone health has to be a priority and I am sure the students and faculty on your project understand.

I am sure you will develop a fun and rewarding experience even tho it cannot be hands-on.

[Mgraves]

Day one of the build!

Once again the plan was to have students complete most of the project. Hoping to build more of these smokers, with students.

Cutting: Tried something a little different. Put W-D40 on the plate before cutting. I thinking I heard Frank and Tom talk about in a post or something.

I end up having some issues on the the cutting table. This time I could not blame students. Sometimes 45 amps cuts 1/4 inch steel great, other times not. I have not figured out the why yet. I was getting about 95% cuts. So changed things up and went to 65 amp cuts. Worked great!!

Fire Box.
We end up with Dirt welds. Lots of porosity, even after a general cleaning. So the fire box had to be ground back and re-welded. Once we gave the steel super cleaning things welded better. The W-D40 was leaching into the welds. So once we figured out issue it was a easy fix.

[Mgraves]

Day 2:

Lots of welding. Firebox, warmer cook chamber and end cap.

One mod: I had, insulation left over from gravity feed build. So we put insulation between fire box and warmer. Adding a second 1/4 plate between the firebox and warmer. Time will tell if this was a wise decision or not.

Day 2 pictures to be posted later.

[Big T]

I also insulated the section between my FB and WC so I think it's a great mod. It keeps the WC from getting too hot and having to vent it to allow some heat to escape.

[Mgraves]

Day two pics. Enjoy!

[Mgraves]

Day two!

[Mgraves]

Day Three:

The day was spent putting Racks in warming chamber. Once the cook Chamber was laid out and cut, we focused on welding in the baffle plate and trim. We elected to put the trim on the inside of the cook chamber as suggested by Frank in the build with us program. Pictures to come soon. It seemed like progress was slower today. But it was measure 3 or 4 times then cut once day. The door did spring so,it will need to be re-curved on another day.

[towtruck]

Nice!

[Frank_Cox]

looks great bro! I will be in touch on Monday about those files. Got tied up the last couple days lol

[Mgraves]

Day 3 pics

Chamber door cut!

Inside trim stitch welded.
?? Any reason why the trim needs to be welded fully??

Rack for warmer completed.

[Dirtytires]

You might consider fully welding as it will help smoke and heat from escaping as hour door and door-seal will not cover that seam. Obviously, this is less of a problem with well fitting pieces so it may not be absolutely necessary.

[Mgraves]

You might consider fully welding as it will help smoke and heat from escaping as hour door and door-seal will not cover that seam. Obviously, this is less of a problem with well fitting pieces so it may not be absolutely necessary.

Thanks for the input. Once the door is fit, a decision on a door gasket will get made.

[Mgraves]

Day 4:

Putting in drain from baffle plate.

Working on warming cabinet doors trim.

Firebox dampers installed!

Trying to re-curve cook camber door that sprung when cut. Two bottles jacks I had crap out! Put some pipe clamps on till, another bottle jack can be found with a bigger chain. It sprung a 1/4 inch. It’s squeezed in a 3/4 inch. But with spring back I guessing in needs to be pulled in a 1.25” or 1.5”. Thought??

What is the ideal grill height off the ground?? Thinking about legs and caster combo.

Thanks

[Mgraves]

grill height: ideal height of the main cook grate off the ground?

[tinspark]

Day 4:

Putting in drain from baffle plate.

Working on warming cabinet doors trim.

Firebox dampers installed!

Trying to re-curve cook camber door that sprung when cut. Two bottles jacks I had crap out! Put some pipe clamps on till, another bottle jack can be found with a bigger chain. It sprung a 1/4 inch. It’s squeezed in a 3/4 inch. But with spring back I guessing in needs to be pulled in a 1.25” or 1.5”. Thought??

What is the ideal grill height off the ground?? Thinking about legs and caster combo.

Thanks

Nice build. appreciate the catalogue that you are logging with pictures and excellent captions.
I set mine at 36" grille top height (#9 flattened) to ground. I used the following rule of thumb: "ADA on countertop height is 34"-36".
This is not a countertop but food in restaurants and kitchens are prepped on countertops as well as cook tops. These usually fall within 34-36". So I used that as a rule of thumb..36" Seemed more comfortable to me, that way I wasn't humped over. Of course ADA doesn't apply here. You could always go 35" and if anyone asks, you could tell em' that you went with the mean height.. It really depends on what is comfortable to you though, based on your height.

[tinspark]

Also Noticed on this picture that you guys welded plate "A" cook chamber end cap (24" round) with seperate cutout to the Firebox with the throat cut-out. I am wondering if it is necessary to add plate "A" to plate "D" except for the two 12" radius fillers that make up the 4" difference (2" on each side of the firebox. Would (2) ring segments on a 12" radius have been good enough in place of cook chamber end cap plate "A" ? Very easy to modify the CNC files once the rise and run is known. (rise =2" and run is 13.266" on a 12" rad. x 2 pcs.). I tried to upload a DXF of these simple segments, but the site didn't like the DXF upload. If you want a copy (free of course) for your next build and you think that it will work, PM me and I can get it to you..Also these ring segments could no doubt be picked up somewhere from the drop from the sheet, or easily nested in the CNC file. This would save approx. 4'sq. ft. of 1/4" material. (see pic). the cook chamber to firebox wall is essentially 1/2" thick the way it is designed now.. four sq feet adds up to about 40 lbs and about $25 in materials (cost here where I live at about $200 per sht per 4x8x.25"= about 25 clams) not a super big difference, but it may pay for some hinges or a few gauges or something....
Just a thought for the next ones that you may be building. Unless I'm missing something here..
I just purchased the CNC files for legacy and the included PDF's and was noticing the double plate, then stumbled on your build.. This'll likely be my next build once I clear a few other projects off of my bench..

[Mgraves]

Thanks tinspark. The general information I was looking for on cooking grate height.

Your correct on the end cap. Both cost and weight. If / when another one gets built that end cap to firebox will get deleted and the two small segments will get cut out.

We talked not putting the end cap on. It was already cut out so we used it.

Thanks again for posting tinspark I enjoy the feed back. The deletion on the end cap to firebox and mod will be add to the cut file.

[tinspark]

Here is how some dude got rid of the door spring problem that you experienced. Looks like he gained about 3/4" on the diameter of the pipe since the piece he added after slitting the pipe with a torch was 2-1/2". Pretty cool idea though, but again the CNC files would need a little altering as well as the rest of the sizes based on the pit calculator. I haven't ran the calcs to see if there was a big difference in FB, Stack, Throat, baffle plate opening size etc. The pit calculator seems to base all of the other factors on the CC size.. This doesn't help you much on this particular build, but since you mentioned that you may be doing more of em for your classes in the future, it may be an option..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mI50XCj ... mb_rel_err

[Mgraves]

Tinspark I never would of thought about doing a smoker that way, to take the spring out of the pipe. Something to think about.

[tinspark]

Tinspark I never would of thought about doing a smoker that way, to take the spring out of the pipe. Something to think about.

looks like that may have been 20" pipe in the video (written on side of pipe from supplier in soapstone/ paint pen in video), so not too sure what a 24" pipe would spring open. Probably also depends on which plant roll formed/ extruded and seam welded the stuff too, which may determine how much tension is on the pipe. Those are all unknowns until it's cut IMO..I think I'd start with my pipe and split it, then determine how much spring back there was and see if it was a big deal or not, based on either the "pit calculator" or "Feldon's Calculator". http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html. Feldon's seems pretty close to Smoker builders Calcs..
http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html

[Mgraves]

Day 5

Still working on fittings door. Tried a third jack, It crap out also.

Work on cutting parts:
Guid rack for cooking chamber.
Arms for counter weight.
Wood rack and slide for firebox.

[Mgraves]

Couple more day 5 pics

[tinspark]

Not sure if there is a sheet metal shop in town with a press brake that can handle 1/4" plate (I think that is what the wall thickness of your pipe is... They may be able to put their 2" bottom die in and do a few step brakes for you to bring it around a bit. If you know someone who owns or works at a shop it may be worth hitting them up.. They may not even charge you since its for the school..The press brake operator would need a template the inside radius of the pipe (23.5" diameter?) Maybe about 4-5 light brakes across the door would do it.....just a thought..

[Mgraves]

Day 6: 1/2 day

The day was spent working cad files or modifications of files. These files come from Frank and Tom.

When trying to get ever Sq inch out of metal play It takes longer.

Still working door! Over compress it. So now it needs to flatten out 1/8”.