Conduit nut question

[arat]

Got a quick question about the conduit nuts. They're slightly concave. I assume that the inward curve goes towards the drum wall on both side. Pic attached

[Frank_Cox]

I would put the concave part against the drum for sure. It will help the nipple stay in place better.

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[Frank_Cox]

How's your project coming along by the way? Have any pics to share?

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[arat]

The hardest thing was the drum. I spent too much time looking for an unlined open head drum. I finally brought a closed head unlined one home from work that contained Isopropyl alcohol and cut the top off with a jigsaw. Tree limb fell on it and sorta crushed it so now I'm on the second one. Cut the top out of it this afternoon. I'll get some pics posted when I'm finally motivated and the weather cools off a little. I hope a good washing and a couple of good burns will take care of any residual alcohol.

[Tom_Heath]

X2 on what Frank said about the conduit nuts.

The little pointies will bite into the drum and help everything stay in place.

Sorry to hear about the tree damaged drum, thats just a bummer.
But
Glad to hear you got another.

Are you planning to use a weber lid?

[arat]

Glad it was the drum instead of the house, car, truck, etc...

I grabbed one of the cheapo kettles from Big Lots. The lid fit the first drum perfectly but not so good on the second. It's a little smaller. Guess I'll figure out something when I get to that point. Probably grind the lip down a little and do a little reforming of the kettle lid lip.

[smokeyjoe]

I also have a question. Maybe a dumb question............ What is the trick to tightening the nut inside the drum when working alone? It's hard to hold the outside one and tighten the inside one unless your arms are 6 feet long.

[Frank_Cox]

If the nut on the inside has the teeth on it that face the drum it will bite in all by itself and you can just tighten the pipe nipple from the outside of the drum. The cheaper nuts do not have teeth on them, only a hex. Those are the tuff ones.

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[smokeyjoe]

so the 3/4" NPT hex nuts aren't good? The reason I ask is I'm about to start another UDS and have learned from my first one that the holes need to be pretty precise and the nipples need to fit snug and seal really well to avoid air leaks. I've looked at the hex nuts but haven't purchased any yet.

[Frank_Cox]

it's hard to see, but this conduit nut has teeth that will bite in a little on the drum

Conduit_Steel_Lock_Nuts.jpg (10.93 KiB) Viewed 247 times

[Frank_Cox]

in the first post, the pic the lock nuts on the pipe nipple are the same kind as this.

[smokeyjoe]

The ones I used on my first one were fairly cheap made. We had them in the shop to use on mufflers. I will certainly get better ones this time. I went to Lowe's and they didn't have any. I'll probably have to order them.Also what is a good brand of pope dope? Some of that stuff is EXPENSIVE. I noticed they usually have a heat rating too.Didn't know what to look for.

[Frank_Cox]

for what you are doing, I would just use high temp silicone.

[Tom_Heath]

Wait a sec.....

On the ones I have worked on.
I drill a 1 inch hole and the 3/4 nipples screw right in. I am not sure how close you can get using 1 inch nipples.
OMG.....If I was a plumber, I think that I would prefere (close nipples) Actually, right now any would do!!

[Gizmo]

clean it up Tom!

[The Czar]

Wait a sec.....

On the ones I have worked on.
I drill a 1 inch hole and the 3/4 nipples screw right in. I am not sure how close you can get using 1 inch nipples.
OMG.....If I was a plumber, I think that I would prefere (close nipples) Actually, right now any would do!!

Well lets all be thankful your not

[Tom_Heath]

Hey now......Just how many guys do you know that have taken there air compressor hose and blown the clog out of the kitchen sink. ??

That didnt make a mess.

[The Czar]

None....only cause I know it didn't happen!!!!