Thats good info. Do people typically brace the tank with some temporary internal supports to prevent any twisting the tank might experience? Just don't want to affect how the doors will fit after the burn.dacolson wrote: ↑September 18th, 2020, 9:02 amI would for sure. You’ve probably still got traces of mercaptan/propane in there. We’re you planning on stripping the paint? A hot fire helps loosen it all. I’ve built a log fire and I’ve used a propane weed burner. Weed burner is more accurate if you are loosening paint but the log fire is easier.
I was afraid that the oil on the outside would do that. I also don't want to have to put on a pair of gloves just to touch my smoker. I guess my issue is that i really like the look of an old painted smoker.Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 18th, 2020, 10:39 amBest rust prevention is to sandblast it and paint it. Store it inside or at least out of the weather, especially in winter months. Keep the ashes cleaned out and the cook chamber scraped after EVERY cook and It will last forever.
The oil on the outside looks cool for a while but will need to be re-applied at least several times a year. In my experience it did a poor job of protecting the metal and was constantly dripping off during a cook and staining the brick patio (wife was not happy).
Your tank interior looks pretty clean. Unless you have a lot of odor or residue on it you could just hit it with a wire wheel or a coarse flap wheel to clean it up.
Ya good points. I think Ill start out like that and if its too much work Ill break down and paint it.dacolson wrote: ↑September 18th, 2020, 10:17 pmI’m with you thjm. I really like that semi rusted burned paint look. It’s a hard compromise though. It can go from cool looking to a rust bucket over a couple winters. I guess it’s part of the obsession though. Touch up, refurbishing, refinishing just give you a reason to get out and pay the old girl some well deserved attention.
Got a weed burner coming Tuesday and am going to try that. I dont have an oxy torch but if that doesnt work, it looks like ill be investing in one.
I was going to take my weed burner or an Oxy torch to the tank to correct that bow in the tank at the top and bottom of the door but after thinking about it, I dont think im going to. My plan right now is not to paint the tank and if i heat it up, im afraid the paint will peel in those places and look awkward. Also, after taking some measurements and realigning the door, I got the door to be +-1/16th of an inch or flush in all places.Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 20th, 2020, 11:47 amToo much stored energy in the tank.....never going to stay straight unless you relieve that tension. You gave it a good shot but some forces you just can’t overcome.
Leave it and put a gasket on your door.
I know it is self adhesive but did you have to use any glue with it or did it stick fine on its own?Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 24th, 2020, 10:32 amYes, you still need a gasket. I used flat felt 0.25 wide by 0.125 thick self adhesive on mine and it has worked awesome. You can find them on the sister site here or google lavalock gaskets.
Okay. thanks for the tips. I cant find the link to your build thread or a picture of your smoker. Can you repost it here?Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 24th, 2020, 10:48 amIt’s self-adhesive. Just peal off the plastic strip and stick it down. Make sure the metal is super clean-I think they recommend alcohol- before you apply it and for it to sit under pressure for 24 hours before you introduce heat. It has been on my pit for over 4 years and I’ve had no issues with it.
Did your tank or doors warp at all? Was the gap between the doors consistent all the way around or is the gasket compressed in some places and have room in others?Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 24th, 2020, 11:03 amE82D1670-BFE1-4D17-BFB1-AA449ECC4496.jpeg
I never did a full build thread....pictures used to be pretty time consuming to post and I just never went back to do it.
Thats great information about the gasket thickness and those pictures were exactly what I was looking for. Thanks.Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 24th, 2020, 1:20 pmI spent a bit of time tweaking my door to get it to fit pretty tight but keep in mind the flanges add another layer of deviation from the perfect seal. Unless you use a ring roller, you will not get an absolutely perfect arch to your straps. A 0.125 gasket will crush where it needs to and remain full height to fill voids so as long as your gaps between the flanges and the tank are less than about 0.9375 (3/32) you will be just fine. If they are more than this, move up to the next thicker gasket. Over the years, we have had guys use 0.5 inch and even larger gaskets to seal their tanks so don’t get too bogged down on this part of the build.
Don’t know if my pictures will do you any good but I rolled it outside and snapped one of the bottom/right edge on the curve of the tank and one across the bottom.
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