Just a thought but if you are planning on catering or cooking for the public you might look into the local health dept codes. They probably don’t care what thickness your countertops are but might specify a certain size or number of sinks (as well as other things). With a smoker on the trailer, a call to the fire marshal might be a good idea to see if any distances are required from the firebox.
If you are a non-profit or a private club build then probably not as important but hate to see you have to redo something.
Most commercial kitchens use between 16 -14 gauge 304 #4 stainless steel for their countertops.
I am curious about building a counter top out of 16ga 304-4 but I am curious about the supporting structure. 16ga isnt very strong. I do have a tig but i have zero experience welding stainless.
Is it typical to make the underlining supports out of mild steel and put the stainless steel on top?
JUst saw this . Directed to me. Sorry for the late response.
Once 16 ga. is bent it strengthens it a great deal. But a shop with a press brake is the best route to go to do that.
As far as supports, an angle frame underneath is fine, especially on a trailer build. In a shop setting, they would shoot threaded studs to it and the top and that would give a way to attach to some sort of structure underneath. also 304 is the material composition in the sheet. #4 just means that it has a grain in the sheet (aka brushed finish). fyi.
Thanks for the reply. I have been looking at 20ga with some kind of wood bottom. The price of stainless steel is CRAZY high and the bender goes from ($1500 for 20ga) to $7500 for 16ga
I have never worked with metal that small. I wonder if 20ga would be ok with wood support at the bottom
Yes, It should only be a few hundred bucks to have a shop bend one up if you supplied the material though, and less if you cut and notched the sheet yourself....But going the other route if you are going to go 20 gauge, you can do whatever countertop that you want. You could make an angle iron frame and then be able to weld gussets to the framework to the trailer and weld sheet metal as filler between multiple sinks or one solid sheet over an angle frame with a hole cut out for for a single sink. Lots of options. Not sure what you are using it for though, and what county regulations are in your area. Should be able to be done though. If it's for private use you can do whatever you want..
Mine is just an out door kitchen for my house. Just curious if you will be able to feel a difference of 20ga ss reinforced with wood backing for the table top vs the 16ga ss. Thanks for taking the time to answer my questions. I will build one soon and see if the 20ga ss feels 'cheap'
You will need to use 3/4" minimum plywood underneath the stainless steel and a construction adhesive like liquid nails and it should be fine. It will have a tendency to dent easier since it is thinner, but the plywood laminated to the thin stainless steel will help. I wouldn't use pressed wood aka particle board. Any moisture and it falls apart. See if you can have a sheet metal shop shear and bend it. And think about turning up a backsplash in the back against the wall. As well as a flange down in the front for a stiffener.