First Offset Smoker build

[Big T]

I’ve been waffling on using a throat baffle vs tuning plates too andysmoked. My first build is a RF. My current project is going to be a hybrid. In my current design with the warming chamber over the FB - I can set it up as a standard offset w tuning plates. Or I can drop a couple more tuning plates in to block the whole bottom off and run it as a RF smoker. I can use the warming chamber and stack as the primary stack. We’ll see how well it works as either a traditional or a RF!
I think for a follow up build to this one, I will do a straight Texas-style standard offset w a throat baffle. I’m keeping my eye out for a 250 gallon tank right now. It will be nice to compare the 3 different types.

I hate that we lost a bunch of photos during an upgrade a few years ago because there's an awesome thread by a guy named bkndsdl. He built a fully insulated hybrid that that could be ran in several different styles. He was an engineer and he had some really cool but simple designs that moved his tuning plates, BP gap and dampers between all of the chambers.

[dacolson]

Too bad. I’d love to steal, I mean SEE his ideas!

[andysmoked]

I’ve got it on the stand now & it’s starting to look like a smoker.

Today my best two friends are my 5” grinder & a flapper disc.




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[hogaboomer]

I need to get this old hunk a junk I'm working on to shine like that.

[andysmoked]

I need to get this old hunk a junk I'm working on to shine like that.

Flapper discs are your friend. Think it’ll look good in high temp clear.

Oh, I got the CC door & hinges on today too.



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[dacolson]

Nice! Looking good sir!

[Dirtytires]

Really not much more welding on a RF as compared to a traditional. Only difference is you need to completely weld in a baffle plate. All fairly straight forward welds and great practice welds as nobody will see them. It was discussed earlier about a traditional offset with tuning plates but keep in mind you will need to fabricate the slats, weld in a rail system and then spend a time getting them adjusted properly before you either tack them in or design a some method to keep them in place (so they don’t slide every time you move your smoker.)

Your welding skills will only improve with usage....this might be the perfect opportunity. If you blow a hole thru your tank, simply plug weld it from the outside to fill it in and flap-disk it smooth. Not like the rest of us have never done it!

[andysmoked]

Really not much more welding on a RF as compared to a traditional. Only difference is you need to completely weld in a baffle plate. All fairly straight forward welds and great practice welds as nobody will see them. It was discussed earlier about a traditional offset with tuning plates but keep in mind you will need to fabricate the slats, weld in a rail system and then spend a time getting them adjusted properly before you either tack them in or design a some method to keep them in place (so they don’t slide every time you move your smoker.)

Your welding skills will only improve with usage....this might be the perfect opportunity. If you blow a hole thru your tank, simply plug weld it from the outside to fill it in and flap-disk it smooth. Not like the rest of us have never done it!

A friend said almost the same thing to me last night with regards to the welds being on the inside, so the decision is made. It will be a RF. I’m doing ok on the heavier gauge steel, but when I hit lighter gauge, or mixed gauge I’m really struggling. And don’t even talk about vertical ups, or upside down!! [emoji23][emoji23]


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[dacolson]

You got this.

[andysmoked]

You got this.

Thanks for the support. [emoji106][emoji51]


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[Big T]

It looks great! Just remember when welding on different thickness materials to keep your bead on the thicker material and let it flow over to the thinner side. It makes it a little easier to prevent a blow out, but like DT said, it's just metal so you can reweld the hole and buff it down.

[andysmoked]

Thanks BigT


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[Dirtytires]

Take your time...make a few notes and change one thing at a time. You will get to a combination that works.

I also am a self taught welder and it has taken me years to get to where I am...be patient.

[andysmoked]

Patience, not my greatest virtue. [emoji3]


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[andysmoked]

Today I decided my workshop needed a cleanup. I’ve been all day on it & still not finished. Probably need all day tomorrow as well. I’ve got a lot of stuff stored in there that needs to go.

Before


After



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[dacolson]

Nice looking shop. Beer fridge and all!

[andysmoked]

That’s actually a fermentation chamber. But it will become beer. [emoji3]


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[dacolson]

I love the idea of brewing my own beer but I want to skip right to the end product! No patience.

[andysmoked]

I repurposed a latch off an old timber ammo box to use on the FB door. That & the gasket should lock it nice & tight.


Then I cut the piece of plate for the baffle & it’s sitting in place. I’ll weld it in at a later date.


I’ve got this 1/2” ball valve that I thought of using as a drain, but it’s Stainless. I weld that on with my flux core wire, can I?



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[dacolson]

I’d just put a weldable steel nipple on it and weld that to the CC.

[andysmoked]

Why didn’t I think of that? Thanks mate.


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[tinspark]

Before you add that 1/2" ball valve and nipple, you may want to search up what size valves other guys on here use.
some of the gunk I scrape out of my smoker would plug that little guy up in a heartbeat. Many use 2" valves. I found a cheap 1-1/2" valve on e-bay, which work fine for me for my first water heater smoker build. I welded a nipplr to my CC screwed the ball valve on to it.
I later ordered the free 24x48 smoker plans (my next smoker build) and purchased the the CNC cut files along with it. Those plans show a 2" ball valve. Pretty sure the larger valve is to eliminate plug-ups..
Regards, Doug

[andysmoked]

Thanks Doug. I was wondering about that. I also have a 1”, but I’ll try & source a 1.5 or 2”.


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[dacolson]

mine are 2” ball valves

[Dirtytires]

I have a 2” on mine but don’t use it. I find that a 6” putty knife and a paper towel clean up the bottom of my pit quite nicely and find the drain completely unnecessary. I will skip it on my next pit. If you are unsure, just welding in a threaded 2” pipe with a screw cap would allow you to add a valve later if you needed/wanted it.