If you are going to make more vent holes in the future, and you want to make a jig for your plasma cutter out of a 4"x4" plate (approx). You could measure the center of your plasma orifice to the edge of your drag shield (mine is 3/8" for my Hypertherm 45xp). If you want a 1"x2" oval, your template hole (made out of 1/8" or thicker steel or aluminum).If I were to make that template for my plas-cutter, I would cut a couple of 1-3/4" round holes and space them at 2-3/4" OD,. Then simply lay the template over where you want the vent hole. Hold the drag shield to the inside of the template hole, and run it around the inside of the template. Your oval will be 1"x2". Very fast and repeatable. Throw the template in the tool box for the next build.. ....easy peasy, fast and cheesy!!
Thanks BigT. I think I’ll build that baffle and lightly tack it in place. Run some test burns with/without before handing this cooker over. Put 4 or 5 heat probes down the cooking grates to see the effects. I’ll share the details of the tests here.Big T wrote: ↑August 24th, 2020, 10:52 pmI haven't used one like this so I don't have any personal experience, just hear say. The last offset that I had was a store bought cooker that I added a short baffle plate(6''-8") right above the throat. It was so hot at the throat that you really couldn't cook anything right there. I made that modification long before I found any sites about building a smoker so it was just trial and error. I would do something whether it be tuning plates, a flat plate or something like the one above just based off of my experiences.
Thx Tinspark. I do love templates. They sure would have made clean up on this one much easier. My dad always said to make a jig if you do the same thing more than twice. Thinking of drilling them out more next time. Use the drill press a bit like a mill. I’ll mess around and share what takes less time/looks the best. I do like these oval vents.tinspark wrote: ↑August 24th, 2020, 11:53 pmIf you are going to make more vent holes in the future, and you want to make a jig for your plasma cutter out of a 4"x4" plate (approx). You could measure the center of your plasma orifice to the edge of your drag shield (mine is 3/8" for my Hypertherm 45xp). If you want a 1"x2" oval, your template hole (made out of 1/8" or thicker steel or aluminum).If I were to make that template for my plas-cutter, I would cut a couple of 1-3/4" round holes and space them at 2-3/4" OD,. Then simply lay the template over where you want the vent hole. Hold the drag shield to the inside of the template hole, and run it around the inside of the template. Your oval will be 1"x2". Very fast and repeatable. Throw the template in the tool box for the next build.. ....easy peasy, fast and cheesy!!
A method (trick) we used at the fab shop for years..
I have often wondered if a false end on the CC about 3" away from the FB / CC end would help with heat flow better. The false end would be open at the very top so the heat from the fire box went up to the top of the chamber before it entered the CC. Another way to look at it is the throat would be at the top of the chamber so the FB could be mounted at the top of the CC.
Damn it. That’s like 4 options I have to account for. NOT helping Towtruck!!towtruck wrote: ↑August 25th, 2020, 9:21 amI have often wondered if a false end on the CC about 3" away from the FB / CC end would help with heat flow better. The false end would be open at the very top so the heat from the fire box went up to the top of the chamber before it entered the CC. Another way to look at it is the throat would be at the top of the chamber so the FB could be mounted at the top of the CC.
Just an idea I had floating in my head. My idea still has the stack mounted at the top as well......I wonder how that set up would work? Someone needs to built it and report the findings
I believe someone recently done something similar to what you're talking about or at least what I think you're talking about. It may have been hogaboomer with a water pan right at the throat that the heat had to go over to enter the CC. I may have also not understood exactly what he built but that's how I envisioned it working.towtruck wrote: ↑August 25th, 2020, 9:21 amI have often wondered if a false end on the CC about 3" away from the FB / CC end would help with heat flow better. The false end would be open at the very top so the heat from the fire box went up to the top of the chamber before it entered the CC. Another way to look at it is the throat would be at the top of the chamber so the FB could be mounted at the top of the CC.
Just an idea I had floating in my head. My idea still has the stack mounted at the top as well......I wonder how that set up would work? Someone needs to built it and report the findings
I think your right...my memory is short but I think the principle is the same as my thought.Big T wrote: ↑August 25th, 2020, 6:01 pmI believe someone recently done something similar to what you're talking about or at least what I think you're talking about. It may have been hogaboomer with a water pan right at the throat that the heat had to go over to enter the CC. I may have also not understood exactly what he built but that's how I envisioned it working.towtruck wrote: ↑August 25th, 2020, 9:21 amI have often wondered if a false end on the CC about 3" away from the FB / CC end would help with heat flow better. The false end would be open at the very top so the heat from the fire box went up to the top of the chamber before it entered the CC. Another way to look at it is the throat would be at the top of the chamber so the FB could be mounted at the top of the CC.
Just an idea I had floating in my head. My idea still has the stack mounted at the top as well......I wonder how that set up would work? Someone needs to built it and report the findings
So a vertically or upward slanted half moon placed 4” or so in front of the throat would do the trick? Something like that pic of the Jambo?
