First Build. Cart first or later? Centering door

[Dirtytires]

dont fret about it warping....most do. It’s no real issue to fix. Mine didn’t have issues till I got the strapping welded on-apparently got it too hot.

I would say use a gasket. Every little leak will add up so do what you can to minimize it. I used a flat, stick on, 0.25 inch gasket. Love it.

[Chukknob]

I’m familiar with the flat stick on stuff.

My concern with the warping is id have to borrow a floor jack. Not a big deal just takes time. Also, I’ve heard it can be a booger seating the door. I’m guessing though one your pit the straps and gasket on it will naturally find it’s groove?

[Dirtytires]

A bottle jack actually works best. I’ll bet you can find one under the back seat in your pick-up truck.

Door is easy to set once done. The flanges actually hold it in place...just shim it for the gasket and tack on the hinges.

[Chukknob]

A bottle jack actually works best. I’ll bet you can find one under the back seat in your pick-up truck.

Door is easy to set once done. The flanges actually hold it in place...just shim it for the gasket and tack on the hinges.

Perfect. My plan tonight is to flap disc all the new cuts on the door and tank and maybe burn out the tank of all the rust. I don't have anymore materials to weld at the moment until I make it to the metal shop.

[Dirtytires]

Rust doesn’t burn...you need to wire wheel or flap disk it. The burn out gets rid of whatever is left of any nasty substance that was originally stored in the drum.

[Chukknob]

Rust doesn’t burn...you need to wire wheel or flap disk it. The burn out gets rid of whatever is left of any nasty substance that was originally stored in the drum.

Gotcha. I actually remembered we have burning restrictions here in good ole California. Our air is terrible. Do you think an old compressor tank needs to be burned out before use? Oh and I bought my flat iron for the strap on my lunch so hopefully I'll be welding that on.

[Dirtytires]

No, I wouldn’t burn out a compressor tank. Just hit it with a wire wheel to knock the loose stuff off....doesn’t have to be shinny metal. Before you fire it up first time, just lightly coat interior with a vegetable oil spray.

[Chukknob]

We have a door. Came out super clean and maybe sprung1/32”, if that. I’m trying to bend the vertical strap in the shape of the tank before I weld it to minimize any upward twisting.

[Chukknob]

No mind the welds. Next time I’ll use a table instead of rushing myself and welding on the concrete.

[Chukknob]

I have no idea why these photos keep posting upside down.

[Big T]

[Chukknob]

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[Chukknob]

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[Chukknob]

I made the base frame out of 2x2 11 gauge. My neighbor has extra from a project so I saved a trip to the store and a few bucks. Got the casters from Tractor Supply. They were the best I could find in my area.

I made some mounting plates for the wheel out of leftover out of 1/4” flat from my firebox. I need to drill the holes in order to bolt them and then weld the plate on the frame. Not necessarily in that order.

Question- Can I skip the mounting plates and just burn these casters on the frame without using the bolts? I don’t have a drill presses so it would be way faster.


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[towtruck]

You can burn them on but I would not do it that way unless I had to. Make a plate that is over sized a tad in case you want to change wheels some day.

[Chukknob]

You can burn them on but I would not do it that way unless I had to. Make a plate that is over sized a tad in case you want to change wheels some day.

I guess I can just drill them the old fashion way. Now I just need to figure out the bolt size. I’m guess 3/8 will be big enough.

[towtruck]

I would think 5/16" would be enough if you use four per wheel. What is the hole size on the caster mount...use that.

[Chromeski]

The 1/4 inch is overkill for the casters, but better to overdo it then not enough. A vise and good drill bit and u can get it done. If you want the easy way out, weld the casters to the plate, but changing wheels later is tough.

[Chukknob]

The 1/4” was leftover from the firebox material so I was what I had on hand. I just went ahead and ran to Lowe’s and bought the nuts and bolts and figured I do it the right way.


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[Dirtytires]

If you cut your plates the same size, I would attach them first to the smoker frame and then run a short bead on each edge to attach the caster flange. You could easily bring off the edge weld if you needed to change them.

Alternatively, most steel supply houses carry baseplates with predrilled holes. Saves a ton of work doing such a tedious task of fabricating from raw plate. Worth every cent.

[Chukknob]

I’m gonna call my supply place in the morning to see if they have them. Probably cost less than the hardware I bought and the bit set. Plus the time. Thanks.

Also to forego the drill press I thought maybe to weld the plates to the frame, center punch and then drill. At least the frame would make it rigid while drilling.


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[Chukknob]

I’m struggling with latch design for firebox.

Also, what does the cook chamber cook racks sit on and how do you prevent them from tipping over? Angle iron and c channel?


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[Big T]

Most guys use angle iron for the rack guides and weld a short piece of flat bar to the top of the angle iron close to the door opening. It keeps it from tipping out on you and dumping your food. I didn't see a picture of your FB so I can't say for sure what would work best for the latch.

[Chukknob]

That’s what I was thinking Big T. I bought angle iron today and I have some leftover flat stuff.

Regarding the firebox yet I haven’t determined the design. Can’t settle on a door with bar welded around the top, bottom and sides or simply cutting out a door from the box and strapping it with flat.


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[Big T]

You can use the cut out wrapped with flat bar so you don't have any waste but it'll need to be reinforced to avoid it warping.