60 gallon build question(s)- lots

[Ranjer59]

I've done some searches -here and other sites- on the "best" build for a small patio offset. Some advice conflicts with other advice- yeah... who could have guessed? Bear with me- and know that I honestly appreciate any responses.

I have a Dayton 60 gallon compressor tank- A couple of grinders, a 120v arc welder and a 120 flux core and too few clamps (never have enuff clamps). I plan on a square FB- but other than that, I'm open. My welding looks like chicken crap- but I'm getting better. By the time I have a solid plan and materials and it gets cooler, maybe I will be able to run a bead that I don't cuss at.

First out: std vs reverse flow? Both have champions. I'm not tied to either- I've been told that on a tank my size, there is no good reason not to go RF- and others have said "don't bother- std flow will be fine". "Reverse flow "sounds sexier" -but I'm hard headed so let's go with Std Flow questions. Maybe the responses to these will fill in the blanks about a RF.

Shadow plate? Seems worthwhile on a RF but I've seen folks say it'd work the same for a standard. I'm having a problem seeing it-is that accurate? On a standard offset- this might serve as sort of a short tuning plate but would be scorching hot directly under (within a couple of inches) the first 8-10 inches of the grate. Wouldn't this just trade super hot air blast for a super hot convection plate? Plus, a shadow plate would preclude a "jambo style diverter" to get air up to top of the CC- there are big fans of this arrangement. I'm guessing the first 6-10 inches of the grate nearest the FB will be too hot to cook on - regardless of which I go with. So do either matter? Throat at grate level and put in a water pan or a split on the grate to block the direct blast maybe? Dunno.

If I went standard flow, there are a couple of ideas re: firebox to CC mate up. Seen both "Firebox to mid-line of CC" and "Firebox as low as you can get.
This will not be a trailer rig- so firebox clearance from the pavement is not a problem. If I put it low- and have the chimney on top center of the far end, would this help with drafting? (Having more throat- to- grate distance might lessen the radiant heat if using a shadow plate). But I've seen cookers with fireboxes at mid-line of CC and chimney at grate level (using a plenum/collector) that apparently draft like mad.

Ok- last (I think) - chimney high versus grate level. Is this more of a personal preference than anything? Dripping gunk from a top center vs stale smoke from grate high.

Sorry for the book of questions. This will likely be the only offset I ever build. It may not turn out perfect -but good info will give me a running start. Thanks all.

[Dirtytires]

I have cooked on and still own a standard offset and a reverse flo. This doesn’t mean my answers are the best, just that they come from experience.

My offset is extremely difficult to keep at a low temp and I can only manage the temps if I burn lump charcoal. The top of the throat is even with the grate and the chimney exits at the grate as well. What I find is that the first 1/3 of the rack next to the firebox is too hot to cook and completely useless. I also have quite a bit of temp difference in the remaining 2/3 of the rack that I definitely need to rotate the meat or it won’t cook even. My other problem is that the smoke seems to get trapped in the cook chamber by the low exhaust and drops bitter creosote on the meat. I can minimize this by using charcoal (wood is absolutely horrible) and opening the lid to rotate the meat allows smoke to exchange. In short, it works but is way more work than it needs to be and the loss of rack space meant I outgrew the pit.

My reverse flo has a shadow plate, and a top mounted exhaust. Temps are much more even, I can use the entire rack space and hardly ever open the door to flip meats. Bitter meat is a thing of the past and it is, overall, just easier to use. The best part is I use wood splits and am able to get a much better tasting meat.

Both types will work for your tank. A lot of people end up using tuning plate in their offset to try to tame it and end up spending a lot more time, expense and aggravation than just putting in a baffle plate and making it recovers flo. You need to decide what you want tho and settle on a design.

[dacolson]

I have both and agree with most of the statements. My standard offset uses tuning plates which are a huge help for evening out the heat. Stack is grate level. I have no issue with creosote dripping on wood. Tuning plates are set it and forget it. Grate temps are about 30 degrees different from FB to stack end. This is my trailer mounted rig.

My I completely agree w/ Dirtytire on the RF. Very simple to manage, temps are closer - about 10 degrees different side to side. My RF stack is rack height however, unlike Dirtytire’s RF. No complaints here either. One difference in appearance/taste of the meat is that I seem to get a better smoke ring on the RF. It might taste smokier too but that could be subjective? Maybe it’s b/c the tuning plates block some smoke on the standard offset? I’m building another standard offset and am putting in a throat baffle instead of tuning plates. I’ll be doing some testing to see how that works in comparison to tuning plates. We’ll see.

If this is your first smoker, I would suggest the reverse flow. It is a shorter learning curve and you will appreciate that when you’re up all night tending fires!

Good luck! Looking forward to seeing your build!

[Big T]

I think both types of offset smokers have their place but I feel that you will have more useable cooking space on a 60 gal by going RF.

[Brisket Envy]

I think If I could have only one smoker (ugh), I would use the design that would meet my needs best.
If I were expecting a lot of cooking of say, all brisket, where I may have briskets filling it up from end to end, the reverse flow would probably give me the most even temps along the grate, and lessen the need for rotating the meat.
If my cooks involved chickens, ribs, and sausage, all at once, a hot end for the chicken, middle zone for ribs, and third, cooler zone for the sausage, would be useful, so direct flow would maybe be a better option.
I recently finished a 250 gallon direct flow offset with only one brisket at each end, held virtually the same temp left to right, along the cooking chamber.