Pipe cutting to release tension - sprung doors

[dacolson]

I thought I should follow up on a method Hogaboomer posted about a while ago on cutting a pipe lengthwise to release tension in the steel and avoid sprung doors. Today I cut the pipe and crossed my fingers it would spring out instead of in. Success. The pipe sprung 1 1/2”. Next I’ll weld in a piece of 3/8” to fill the gap. I’ll post more pictures once I cut the doors which hopefully should stay perfectly flush.

Here’s the cut:




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[hogaboomer]

I'm looking forward to seeing the outcome of this.

[dacolson]

Ya. It will be a moment of truth cutting those doors.
Side question. You think the paint/enamel/whatever on the pipe will burn off?


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[tinspark]

I thought I should follow up on a method Hogaboomer posted about a while ago on cutting a pipe lengthwise to release tension in the steel and avoid sprung doors. Today I cut the pipe and crossed my fingers it would spring out instead of in. Success. The pipe sprung 1 1/2”. Next I’ll weld in a piece of 3/8” to fill the gap. I’ll post more pictures once I cut the doors which hopefully should stay perfectly flush.

Here’s the cut:

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Yeah that was a pretty good video where some dude demonstrated the process of cutting pipe to release tension.. Good idea. If I ever do a cooker with pipe, I will try that method too. Slit to release stored tension, and fill back with flat bar.. Should keep the door from springing since the whole pipe springs open when slit, releasing the tension. Also relieves the headache of putting the door the door back to the tighter radius

[Big T]

This is pure speculation but I think the tan coating will burn off with a good fire. I've used pipe several times over the years with different color coatings and the only coating that I've had an issue removing was a red coating. I usually get a good bed of coals inside the pipe and I keep rolling it so that the coalbed comes in contact with the entire inner surface.

[dacolson]

This is pure speculation but I think the tan coating will burn off with a good fire. I've used pipe several times over the years with different color coatings and the only coating that I've had an issue removing was a red coating. I usually get a good bed of coals inside the pipe and I keep rolling it so that the coalbed comes in contact with the entire inner surface.

Thx Big T. It is burning back from the torch cuts so I assume it will but it seems to be pretty serious stuff. It’s not the same as the red you mention. I’ve got some 10” pipe that has red and it’s almost like a powder coat - thick and textured/mat. This is smooth. Fingers crossed it comes off easy.


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[dacolson]

Update. Finally have room in the shop to start work on this pit. I welded a filler plate in today and cut the doors. Thought about using the grinder to avoid too much heat input but thought cutting 3/8” would take forever. All the door cuts were with the plasma torch. I went over them with a cutting wheel before I cut out the corners. Straight as an arrow. No warps. Thank god. After one run through I can’t say this is a tried and true method. But I’ll be doing it on the next build for sure.








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[mp4]

Awesome write up - thanks much!

[dacolson]

YW mp4.

Last pics and I’ll start a build thread. Doors and edges all cleaned up.






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[Chriz]

Looking good!
Curious how she’ll turn out


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