Door flanges - tight seal

[Tipps]

Anybody have any tricks for intalling the door flanges (1-1/4-1-1/2” flat bar) so they get a tight seal on the cook chamber? I’ve got a few thoughts about this, but saw a video about a texas company’s pits and his flange seals are pretty tight with no gaskets or anything. Couldn’t even slide a card between them.
Let me know.

[Dirtytires]

The cook chamber is long and tends to distort a bit when cut and welded on making for a completely flat mating surfacehard to achieve. This is esp true of old ranks or rusted metal. I would just use a gasket, mine is 1/4 inch stick on and works great.

If you definately do not want a gasket, I would probably frame the opening in heavy angle iron to give more surface area to seal. Some also use multiple door clamps to maintain a tight seal but I find them inconvenient to use.

My firebox is square and built from 0.25 plate. My door on that is super flat and does not require a gasket.

[Big T]

Most of the big pit builders have rollers to shape the door and flanges to get a good seal. It's a really tough task for the backyard builders to accomplish the same results without using a gasket. I use 1/8'' flat bar and it's pretty easy to get a nice radius that matches the tank but if there's any pitting on the matting surface, it will leak.

[Tipps]

Ok I appreciate the replies. I might just use a gasket.

[Tipps]

When using a gasket, do you just use a shim when welding on the flanges to allow space? Also, Does that make for a noticeable gap between the door metal and the flange (not sure how good that will look if not completely welded). I wasn’t planning on cutting my door completely out until hinges are welded on, and wansnt planning on removing it . I’m assuming the gasket is adhered to the inside of the flange and not on the cook chamber. Any help with gasket and flange design would also be appreciated

[Dirtytires]

I cut and removed my door. Welded the flange onto the lid. I then placed a spacer of exactly half the gasket thickness under the flange and ratchet-strapped the door to the tank/pipe and welded on the hinges.

[Rodcrafter]

Yeah what DT said


Making memories!

[Tipps]

I got my door mostly cut, but I wasn’t confident in handling the large door so I welded my hinges in before making final door cuts.

I have a gasket now I want to install, but only have the flanges to work with and adjust to make everything fit right. Was going to shim the flanges and use ratchet straps on the sides and tack them, then probably weld them out to hide the small gap. I guess on the top and bottom
I can just shim and weld since I won’t have to bend the flat. Should this work ok?

[Dirtytires]

How thick is the gasket and what kind?

It is usually easier to put the flanges on the door when it is cut-out and on the bench then just set it back on, line it up and weld the hinges. Since you went hinges first, I figure you need to shim between the door and the flange (as opposed to between the flange and the tank). Should work tho.

[Tipps]

How thick is the gasket and what kind?

It is usually easier to put the flanges on the door when it is cut-out and on the bench then just set it back on, line it up and weld the hinges. Since you went hinges first, I figure you need to shim between the door and the flange (as opposed to between the flange and the tank). Should work tho.

It’s the lavalock 1/8” thick gasket

[Dirtytires]

That makes things not quite so bad. Only need a 1/16 inch shim. The top one is key to getting door to sit flat.

[Tipps]

Thanks for the help DT, on both my threads

[bigphilsSmokers]

Another thing you can do is use high temp food grade silicone. Make sure the surface is clean and run a bead either inside the flange it on the chamber where the door seals. Then lay wax paper over the silicone and gently lower the door and the weight of the door will squeeze the silicone out and make a good seal. Let it cure for 24 hours and the. You can open the door and peel the wax paper off and take a razor blade and trim the excess sislcone away.