Which paint and how much for a Santa Maria?

[USMC1995]

I am in the process of building a Santa Maria and I am planning to paint it with high temp paint. I am looking for some feedback both on which paint(s) y'all have had good success with and how much you think I will need.

I am looking at using either the rust-oleum rattle cans or getting the $15 HF sprayer and a quart of the rust-oleum high temp. I guess that is my first question. Rattle cans or using a sprayer?

If the answer is rattle cans, Rust-oleum has the 1200 degree high temp, the 1200 degree high temp ultra, a 1200 BBQ & Stove, and a 2000 degree automotive. I think I have figured out that the 2000 degree is not an enamel and will be less durable. The Ultra is semi-gloss as opposed to the regular high heat that is satin finish. What I can't figure out is what the difference between the high heat and the BBQ & Stove is. Other than the fact that the BBQ & Stove is $10 per can more expensive. I don't mind paying more for something if it is worth it, but I cannot imagine that it could be that much better.

If there are better options than the rust-oleum, I am certainly open to them.

The last question is how much paint will I need. The grill is 48x30 and 16" deep. I built a 2" square tubing frame. I would like to do several coats, but don't really know what kind of coverage I can expect per can. I am going to attempt to attach a photo.

Thanks in advance for your input and help.

[Dirtytires]

I believe the rustoleum states that is should not be sprayed...not sure why. They recommend rolling or brushing. For that reason alone, I would want to use a rattle can as I hate brushes.

I used the bbq high temp on a set of fireplace doors. Super flat finish, looks great but is very easily chipped and scratched.

[hogaboomer]

The HIGH HEAT label says you can use a spray gun, the Ultra says the same. The Stove and BBQ only comes in a spray can.:


HIGH HEAT is a tough protective enamel that renews and protects surfaces subject to heat up to 1200 degrees. This rust
preventive formula is ideal for barbeque grills, wood stoves, radiators, fire pits, fireplace screens, automotive fixtures and
more. Rich, satin finish.
Painting Conditions: Use when temperature is between 50
˚ and 90˚F (10˚ - 32°C) and humidity is below 85% to ensure
proper drying. Priming is not recommended. Do not use on metal directly exposed to flames or in direct contact with food,
such as a grill grate. Not intended for continuous water submersion, or for surfaces that, when heated exceed 1200
°F
(93
°C).
Preparation: Remove loose paint and rust with wire brush or sandpaper. Lightly sand glossy surfaces. Clean
with soap and water, rinse and let dry. WARNING! If you scrape, sand or remove old paint , you may release
lead dust. LEAD IS TOXIC. Contact the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to
www/epa.gov/lead.
Painting: Stir thoroughly. If thinning is necessary, thin material only with mineral spirits or acetone. For brush or roller,
thin no more than 5%. Do not thin with gasoline, lacquer thinner, turpentine, etc. Apply with a good quality brush,
roller or spray gun.
A second coat application is not recommended.
Dry and Recoat Times: Based on 70˚F (21˚C) - 50% relative humidity. Allow more time at cooler temperatures. May
recoat within 1 hour or after 24 hours. Dries to the touch in 2-4 hours and to the handle in 5-9 hours and is fully dry in
24 hours. Allow to dry 24 hours before heating. Surface may emit smoke and harmless odor at first.
Clean-Up: Clean roller and other application tools with mineral spirits.

[tinspark]

The main thing I like about a spray gun is that you can get the paint on faster and a thicker coat in or shorter period of time. If you go three coats with a spray can that may be like one coat from a spray gun based on how much or little you thin your paint (use lacquer thinner btw). Just be sure to spend the time to clean the paint gun real good before you store it if you go that route. I keep mine in a coffee can and use the same can to clean the gun. Then it stores in a cabinet in my garage... Plus its a better value and the paint lasts years in a can, whereas a rattle can often will not work again after it has been stored for a spell.. I prefer a gun personally, especially for bigger projects like a smoker. Did the wife's patio table and chairs a few weeks ago with a spray gun which has a ton of expanded metal and angle iron framework. It would have been a nightmare with a rattle can, as well as a small fortune in paint.
Nice start on the santa maria BTW, and I like the RF behind it in your pic, and what looks like a linseed oil finish on it too ?

[USMC1995]

Thank you all for the replies and information. I feel like I will probably go the spray gun route. I have spent considerable time designing and building this grill and want to give it the best protection that I can. Not to mention the cost of steel these days. I have a ridiculous supply of plastic sheathing and plan to use it to make a field expedient paint booth in my garage. I don't even remember why I bought all of it in the first place.

[USMC1995]

I believe the rustoleum states that is should not be sprayed...not sure why. They recommend rolling or brushing. For that reason alone, I would want to use a rattle can as I hate brushes.

I used the bbq high temp on a set of fireplace doors. Super flat finish, looks great but is very easily chipped and scratched.

I like the flat finish, but I am wondering if a coat or two of the high heat clear would be helpful in making the finish more durable.

[USMC1995]

The main thing I like about a spray gun is that you can get the paint on faster and a thicker coat in or shorter period of time. If you go three coats with a spray can that may be like one coat from a spray gun based on how much or little you thin your paint (use lacquer thinner btw). Just be sure to spend the time to clean the paint gun real good before you store it if you go that route. I keep mine in a coffee can and use the same can to clean the gun. Then it stores in a cabinet in my garage... Plus its a better value and the paint lasts years in a can, whereas a rattle can often will not work again after it has been stored for a spell.. I prefer a gun personally, especially for bigger projects like a smoker. Did the wife's patio table and chairs a few weeks ago with a spray gun which has a ton of expanded metal and angle iron framework. It would have been a nightmare with a rattle can, as well as a small fortune in paint.
Nice start on the santa maria BTW, and I like the RF behind it in your pic, and what looks like a linseed oil finish on it too ?

I am not a painter, so bear with me. Why lacquer thinner instead of mineral spirits? I ask because I have mineral spirits that I used to thin the BLO I put on my RF. I also wonder why they say not to use it.

Thanks for the compliment. I did do a BLO coating on the RF. I like the way it came out. Especially on the firebox. I did a very heavy coating on the firebox while doing the first burn. It is almost like a very dark clearcoat. I will admit that I royally f'ed up my drive way though. Getting BLO off of concrete is nearly impossible.

[USMC1995]

Painting: Stir thoroughly. If thinning is necessary, thin material only with mineral spirits or acetone. For brush or roller,
thin no more than 5%. Do not thin with gasoline, lacquer thinner, turpentine, etc. Apply with a good quality brush,
roller or spray gun.

Clean-Up: Clean roller and other application tools with mineral spirits.

Did they really need to say not to use gasoline to thin the paint? Is this really a problem? It would seem logical to me, but I am probably overestimating the general public.

[tinspark]

I just read boomers post which looks like it came from the manufacturer.
I have a painter buddy who came over and painted my first smoker with my HF sprayer, and had me pick up a gallon of lacquer thinner for high heat paint. I've actually used it 4-5 times without any problem. I never even read the label, but trusted that he knew what he was doing.
I am guessing that either he didn't read it or didn't think it mattered. HE is a painter by trade, sooooo..........
I just talked to him an hour ago before I read this.. I would have gave him a good razzing, cause he's a close friend...
I would definitely thin with what is recommended for sure.. And will likely change over too myself when I run out of the thinner that I already have..

[USMC1995]

tinspark, I just looked at your Santa Maria build. That is awesome. Never seen anything like that. You certainly have more fabrication chops than I do.

[USMC1995]

And judging by your GF thread, you must be a pro. That is some amazing work and one heck of a setup you have there.

[tinspark]

Thanks for letting me off of the hook. HAAH!. I must admit that I love to fab stuff. But have never really liked painting, though.
But if I have to do it I will try to find teh most painless way to do it!
Thanks for the compliments. I was fortunate enough to have been apprenticed from a bunch of old school fabricators in one of the oldest sheet metal custom shops on the west coast.., Those guys were the real deal..