Vertical smoker door warped

[Big T]

It would stiffen the outside edge as well as the center of the door if you box it out.

[wakeboarder141]

Does it sound like that would be helpful and/or necessary?

[Clover Ridge Smokers]

I would just do the X

[Pete Mazz]

How bad is the warping? Does it bow out 1/2"? 1/4"? More? Less? I ask because if it's not too severe it can be sealed with thicker gasket w/o putting additional strain on the latches.

[Rodcrafter]

I think the X brace and the thicker gasket would make you very happy. But you would have to redo your hinges. If you do go with the thicker gasket material like 1/2" rope, I would attach it to the door then after the RTV is dry set it and use a ratchet strap to draw it to the CC then place hinges and latches.

jm2cw

[Puff]

Does anyone think that the door size and frame might be twisting diagonally under heat? Can you diagonally flex any part of the door?

If so, does it make any sense to cut open the inner skin and create a brace structure that eliminates the twist? Just thinking

[Rodcrafter]

I wondered about that too Puff, that's why I had asked about the frame of the door. But I think the X would fix it.

[wakeboarder141]

I would say at it's worse, the latch side is probably warped out by about 1". I will try the X brace and see how that works, then change gasket and hinges if still needed. Any particular type of rope gasket you recommend? I tried one on my small smoker, and it ended up just all falling off.

[Rodcrafter]

This is the one I use.

http://www.equalseal.com/product-p/dgr-500-25.htm

[Puff]

That rope gasket is a good price, I am using the 1/4" thick flat, self-stick Nomex ..1" wide. Supremely happy with the way it works on 5 smokers. Remember that if you use it...once it sticks to the frame....it is stuck! 2 yrs and holding..

If your are getting a gap of 1", there is an issue. When I made my door, roughly 28x48x2" thick, I had laid the smoker on its back...then laid the individual pieces on the smoker before welding. Once it looked good it was welded.

My assumption was....if there was any non-square surfaces, the tubes would press against each mating line and then welding them to fit that irregular potential. When it was completed, it seemed as though I would not need any gasket to seal the door. Those mated surfaces were near perfect. To this day I have no clue if that smoker front is totally square or parallel. I only know the when closed, all four sides sit squarely against the front.

I hope I've explained it well enough to draw any conclusions for your problem. I hate hearing that this is happening. But, it really seems to me like torsional twist some where. Will a cross brace have enough grip on the skin and tubing to keep it in check? I'm not sure. I did use that same brace on my RF firebox and it's perfect. But it's 1/4" plate. While overkill, the x is made of 1/4"x2" flat bar

This is a view of the RF firebox under construction

image.jpg (50.45 KiB) Viewed 168 times

[wakeboarder141]

So, Puff, what are you suggesting? I am open to any ideas at this point. I would prefer not to rebuild the door from heavier material, as the door is already about all I can handle when removed, but if it comes down to that, I will do whatever works.

[Puff]

Geez whiz Wakeboarder41,

I would hate to steer you in the wrong direction but the diagnosis is the most important part and I am only suggesting what I see by reading about the problem ....BUT, if your saying its sealed cleanly when cool and twists 1" when warm in one spot...shoot, that seems like it's just not geometrically strong enough to keep it straight... The simpler solution is what Clover Ridge Smokers and Rodcrafter were saying.... Try the x brace first...if that wont work then you'll need to go deeper into the door.

By the way, my gravity feed door probably weighs about 85-90 lbs at 2" thick 14 gauge plus 1 sheet of 2" rigid insulation

[Rodcrafter]

See that is just it Puff, he is using much smaller frame than you did. So he needs some more frame strength. (in my opinion)

[wakeboarder141]

The top door on mine is 36"x32" and if I remember right it weighs about 120lb with the 2 layers of 10 gauge steel. Its not easy to carry around, I know that. I will give the X brace a shot if I ever have any free time, and go from there. Thanks for all the tips.

[Puff]

That's what I'm thinking too RC....What gauge is the tubing the door frame made of, is that lightweight stuff?

[wakeboarder141]

Yeah, the tubing was pretty thin. I don't remember the exact dimensions.

[Puff]

Good luck with the x brace. That may hold it in place for you. Keep everyone posted with your results