6013 and 7018 rods

[Puff]

Since I have started this project, it has been done with my old Miller Thunderbolt 225 Ac/dc using theDC output. I had about 10 lbs of old Hobart 3/32 6013 rod and started using it fairly well. I bought another 10 lbs of 3/32 7018 but I am having a problem. When the rod is first started and unused, I can strike an arc and it works great, puts down a beautifully flowing bead. Once I move the rod to a new spot, the best I can do is to keep getting the rod stuck on the work 8 out of 10 times. It just seems to either do nothing or just grab the rod and stick to the work...eventually I might get it going again.

The. 20 year old 6013 work perfectly every time all the time. However, the 7018 has such a nicer flow of the weld, smooth and clean, I would really rather use it instead, especially where the welds are out in the open...really very nice looking bead.

Can anyone suggest what my problem might be? I am running about 90-100 amps maybe a bit more on the 7013 it actually seems to be a bit high on the 6013 since it starts so quickly but it Is running well. I assumed the higher output might be needed on the e 7013 since it was not starting as easily.

[El Gato]

need more heat.crank it up a few more amps

[Clover Ridge Smokers]

I also use 7018 and have no problems. I agree you need to crank up the heat. I run 120-135 depending on the thickness of the metal I'm welding. Also look at the package the 7018. It should say the recommended amperage.

[Puff]

Thanks guys....if it was a bit earlier, I run out to the garage and crank it up. Rest assured, tomorrow the sparks fly again.

[Grabber70Mach]

IIRC 6013 us a deeper penetrating rod little easier to use on rusty/dirty metal, also good for a root pass. 7018 has a higher tensile strength but not as much penetration, nice finish weld though. I've found with 7018 when restarting an arc on a previously used rod, I have better success with scratching the end of the rod on an unpainted cinder block to clean the flux off the end.

[Grabber70Mach]

Sorry about that 6011 deeper penetrating rod. 6013 good general purpose rod, flat surface.

[Puff]

Grabber70Mach,

Thanks for the clue...Today I was looking at the tip of a used 7018 rod and saw what looked like a glass bead insulator on the tip. So it clearly insulates the rod if you don't knock it down before trying to strike the arc again. Turning up the heat did help a lot however.

Ps : my brother is a big Mustang guy, has a 1970 Q code convertible. No idea what it means but he talks about it all the time.

[Grabber70Mach]

Grabber70Mach,

Thanks for the clue...Today I was looking at the tip of a used 7018 rod and saw what looked like a glass bead insulator on the tip. So it clearly insulates the rod if you don't knock it down before trying to strike the arc again. Turning up the heat did help a lot however.

Ps : my brother is a big Mustang guy, has a 1970 Q code convertible. No idea what it means but he talks about it all the time.

Glad to help. Q code, big block 428 FE motor,if it was an "R" same motor with the Shaker or Ram air option. Either way sounds like a nice car. By the way do you know what FE stands for?






Fricken expensive. No really its the family of motors that it denotes.

[rikun]

Are you sure about those 120-135 Amps? My package on 3/32 7018-1 says 80-110A (but it's 7018-1 and I'm using AC).

I did some test beads, and it seemed to run best at around 100A with my machine. I tried it with around 120-125A, but the stick was glowing red after welding.

120-135A would be right on for 1/8" by manufacturer's suggestions...