6011 alternatives for firebox root pass?

[rikun]

Hi,

Beginner stick welder here, just started my smoker project and laid out some practice beads with 6013.

What would you recommend for a 5/16" firebox root pass if 6011 was out of the question? I'm using a good quality 250 Amp AC welder.

I haven't found a 6011 locally here in Finland, we use a different system than AWS. 6013 and 7018AC are at least available

I might have access to a MIG welder, so that could also work... Maybe, the space is pretty limited where the machines are, and I'm not sure if I can get my FB over there (and transport it back to my place).

[Puff]

As I understand , the 60xx implies 60000 psi in tensile strength and 70xx is 70000 psi. I used 7014 and 7018 and once I had gotten the second strike on the 7018 rod down, it lays a beautiful bead with out lots of effort. Check some of the electrode charts online to give a better clarity and a bunch of guys with infinitely better understanding will likely chime in.

By second strike I mean that there appears to be a glass like insulating bead that forms on a rod after you stop welding so getting current flowing means I had to strike off the little insulator.

Hope that helps just a little.. http://www.lincolnelectric.com/en-us/su ... etail.aspx

[Clover Ridge Smokers]

I personally would go with 7018 if you can get it.

[Big T]

[cypertj]

When I weld with 7018 I like to keep a file in my back pocket for restarts. I would think you should be fine with either 6013 or 7018.

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[rikun]

Thanks,

Been practising with 7018-1, it's a little bit harder than 6013 but not so bad. Restarting is quite hard, even with filing the rod before restarts, rod keeps sticking a lot. But that might be because I'm using AC.

Would you recommend leaving a small gap on the corner joints for better penetration?

[Rodcrafter]

The very small sized rods a bit harder to work with in my experience. 5/32" and up will not be glowing red when you lift your hood. So the restart is easier.

[rikun]

Ok, have to get me some 1/8" and have a go at the firebox.

I can always ground it down if it looks fugly, as long as it's structurally sound, right?

[rikun]

Hmm.

I have my FB tacked up, having a bit of difficulty with the stick welding.

I have a 3-phase 180A mig welder, any change it could have enough power for the outside corner root pass?

Due to some fit-up issues, well actually because the steel plate was warped, I have some gaps. That should help with the penetration a lot I guess?

[SOILhunter]

How bad are your gaps? On my fire boxes I always run the whole thing out with 6011 (6013 in your case) use a wire wheel to clean all he welds and then I'm going back over with 7018 for a good finish that I can use a flap disk to round off the edges.

[rikun]

They are pretty bad at the worst spots, somewhere in the region of 1/2". I wish I had oxyacetylene so I could heat it up and shape the plate for better fit. Big hammer did something to the gap, but not enough to make it fit properly...

Here are some pics of the worst gap:



I tried to do the root with 7018, have to try with 6013. But I think it'll be pretty hard to fill the gaps. Maybe I should try to weld some angle solid to the inside where the gaps are? Btw, you can see where I tried to fill the gap with 7018 in the pic, didn't work out that well

With those gaps, do you think the welds will be strong enough? The gaps are only on two sides, so most of the box can be welded pretty well. I read about gap filling techniques and every one of them had a disclaimer that it's not going to be very strong weld...