Question for cutting steel plate

[CWCW]

I will be buying a 4'x8' piece of steel plate to make my smoke chamber ends and my fire box out of at some point in the future. I have never needed to cut any steel like this before so i have never needed a metal cutting saw like i have seen in alot of these posts. Im not going to spend $200+ on a saw that will only get used for this one project and im certainly not goin to purchase a plasma cutter. I have read about how cutting metal with a regular 7 1/4 circular saw could mess up the saw because it doesnt have the protection from metal chips flying into the motor housing. Is there any other way to cut this steel plate with nice precision? I do have a torch but that would end up being alot of grinding to smooth the edges. I dont have a air compresser to run a cut off saw either.

[The Czar]

I think either have the pieces pre cut by the supplier or pay somebody....but it seems to me that I'm the end you would pay more for those routes rather than just buying a metal cutting saw....

[CWCW]

I think either have the pieces pre cut by the supplier or pay somebody....but it seems to me that I'm the end you would pay more for those routes rather than just buying a metal cutting saw....

Yeah dcman, i see your point. I also looked up plasma cutter rentals. Looks like it is around $70 in my area to rent a plasma cutter for a day. If i get all my measurements figured out i could just rent one of those for a day to get it done. Buying the saw would add an extra cool tool to my collection but i just dont see myself using it much after the smoker build, plus the cuts i would have to do for the ends of the smoker chamber would be round circular cuts and i cant do that with the metal cutting circular saw.

[Blazer]

I would go with the torch being that you already have one. A good clean tip and some rust free steel makes for a good cut, but don't get me wrong I would love to have one of those saw's. ;)

[CWCW]

I would go with the torch being that you already have one. A good clean tip and some rust free steel makes for a good cut, but don't get me wrong I would love to have one of those saw's. ;)

Thats also something im not really educated about. I have just been using the tip that came with my torch. I know that they have different size tips but i dont understand what the difference is when cutting. Does a tip with smaller holes mean a more precise cut? What is the benefit of a tip with bigger holes?

[Tom_Heath]

More or less, yes. To your question about tip size.
Its more gauged to the thickness you are cutting. We all cut stuff thats way thinner then what the tips rated for. If u drop down to a tip thats just barley big enough and keep everything steady and smooth then you should come out with a pretty decent cut. It takes a steady hand or a good guide. The tip i run most of the time can cut up to two inchs thick. So i dont get those omg clean cuts.

The straights, i would use a cut off wheel in a cheep grinder. And the torch for the curves.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

[CWCW]

More or less, yes. To your question about tip size.
Its more gauged to the thickness you are cutting. We all cut stuff thats way thinner then what the tips rated for. If u drop down to a tip thats just barley big enough and keep everything steady and smooth then you should come out with a pretty decent cut. It takes a steady hand or a good guide. The tip i run most of the time can cut up to two inchs thick. So i dont get those omg clean cuts.

The straights, i would use a cut off wheel in a cheep grinder. And the torch for the curves.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk

Ok, is there a chart somewhere that will show me what tip # for what thickness of metal im cutting? I might just do the straights with a cut off wheel like you said. I have a cheep grinder from harbor freight for $25 that i can use. That thing sure was cheep but it has lasted me through more work that i would figure a $25 grinder would do, haha.

[RDRASH]

I have cut 1/4 with a 7 1/4 circular saw it does work. BUT you will burn up a cheap saw been there done that. Only sucess I had was with a worm drive saw works ok, if you use abrasive wheels will only get about 48" of cut per blade they go quick.

[The Czar]

I have cut 1/4 with a 7 1/4 circular saw it does work. BUT you will burn up a cheap saw been there done that. Only sucess I had was with a worm drive saw works ok, if you use abrasive wheels will only get about 48" of cut per blade they go quick.

Holy Crap you got balls of steel......I have seen cutting wheels fly apart on 1/4" steel....me....I would just buy the metal saw and use it and then sell it.....I like all my eyes and finger and such when I am done with a job....

[Smokeone]

Come on now DC, 1 little disc comes apart and whizzes by you, and you get all safe on us. I mean after all it missed you!

All BS aside, you could make your cuts with the grinder, just be sure, you keep all the safety guards in place, along with full personal protection. As DC said though I would prefer the metal cutting saw.

[maccas66]

I`m with S1 on this!, but a 9" grinder and run it along the cut gradualy getting deeper not try and cut it like a wood saw does!, dc had a good idea also!, but I forgot what it was !

[RDRASH]

Yeah never said it was a good idea but live and learn.

[The Czar]

I`m with S1 on this!, but a 9" grinder and run it along the cut gradualy getting deeper not try and cut it like a wood saw does!, dc had a good idea also!, but I forgot what it was !

Probably let somebody else do it.... .....

[Tommy Joe]

If you have a torch you should use it. If your cut is a little off use a grinder to get on line, just cut on the outside of the line and bring it in with the grinder. As for the size of tip, the size determines the thickness of metal you can cut and the size of kerf you get. I like to use a #0 tip on anything up to 1/2 in. And another thing I do is my oxy. is set around 24 to 30 and acet. is around 5 to 7 for 1/4 in metal, and keep the tip clean. Like dcman said a cut off wheel is very dangerous, and can cause very serious injury even death. Don't get me wrong I own 2 Matabo's and use them all the time but be careful and watch what you are doing. Also as S1 said USE THE PROPER PPE ( personal protection equiptment). Eye (full face shield) gloves and a heavy shirt or better yet a leather welding jacket, and keep all guards on tha grinder in place.

[Frank_Cox]

TommyJoe is spot on. and like blazer said No problems at all with using a torch. the one thing you will hear us gripe about when using a torch is the doors on the smoker may warp a bit when you are cutting them.... but that being said, the doors are going to warp anyway most likely, sooooo use what you have. The builds I enjoy seeing progress the most are the ones that are built on the cheap. being resourcful and using the stuff you have laying around.

[DocMorgan]

Actually, I might have something to contribute to this.

Taking classes for welding at the local Vo-Tech HS right now and we are currently cutting things up using oxyacetylene. This is what I have taken away regarding tips and cutting.

#1. for a nice "butter cut" you want a clean tip. I have seen the difference a clean tip makes, and you want a clean tip.
#2. use a "cooler" flame. Hotter flames leave more slag. Slag sucks unless you have an affinity for grinding and nasty looking cuts.
#3. use a constant speed for your cuts.
#4. use the right tip for the right job.

000 will cut to 1/4"
00 will cut to 1/2"
0 will cut to 3/4"
1 will cut 1"

If you are using anything heavier for your smoker... talk to someone else. I know a #8 tip will cut up to 24" steel.

[k.a.m.]

As DocMorgan posted a clean tip with the proper regulator settings is all you need. I use my torch for all my long and intermediate cuts. Get comfortable and use a rest so your hand stays cool. Let the torch glide along rather than try to make short ark movements before long your cuts will end up like a track machine did the work.