Stumps Clone Build for 2015

[Rodcrafter]

I'm so jealous!

[SmokinDTown]

Here are the pictures from yesterday:

Door welded on:

Brackets for slam latch machined and welded into place:


Slam latch assembly installed. It works!

Frame for top of FBA cut:

Have to stop for now. Need more materials. I think I am going to stay with 18 ga. for the exterior skins.

[Puff]

All my skins are 14 'cept for the inside cook chamber. One side is 12. How much weight might you save with 18... Only thinking out loud but on the long expanses like the door and long sides, will the flex distortion concern you? I may be way off base, so.

[SmokinDTown]

Puff, I think the big concern is whether or not I get a good door seal. I am going to screw/poprivet the outer skin. If it doesn't work, out comes the grinder for a do-over. I may be able to get the last of the material tomorrow.

[SmokinDTown]

Went down the road to pick up the outer skin. Decided that I could save myself a few bucks by going with a 10 foot length. Only safe way to transport was to have the metal guys roll em up and band them:


When I unrolled them, they were crimped and wavy.

I cut out the skin for the back of the smoker as best I could. Then I just put something heavy on it.


I'll let you know how it turns out!

[Puff]

I'm hoping this thought isn't too late but....I used self-adhesive Nomex gasket 1" wide and 1/8" thick. I had stuck it to the door then laid the door onto the smoker after laying the cabinet on its back. Once in place and maximizing alignment...placed two tie downs and lightly cranked them close to gently compress the gasket material. Then welded the hinges on. That technique has given me GREAT seals on every smoker I've built in the last two years. Thank you Gizmo!

[SmokinDTown]

Puff, I have the 1/4" stuff as sold by this site. I clamped the door frame pieces to the smoker chamber, then welded the parts together. I used 1/8" flat stock to space out the door as I welded the hinges on. Now I have to weld the skins on the door. We will see!

[SmokinDTown]

Got the inner skin on the door. It did pull in a little. Thinking about perhaps welding the outer skin on to see if that counteracts what happened.


Both the other doors are done. I wrapped the FBA with insulation, and tacked some sheetmetal in place to hold everything together:

[Puff]

Did you pack the frame with insulation as well?

[SmokinDTown]

I only put insulation in the FBA door and frame. I went off the reservation with the Ceramic Fiber insulation. The thermal conductivity is different than that of Roxul. Don't know about the weight, but I am guessing that the total weight of the insulation will be around 100 pounds.

I have used a Cookshack electric smoker for a number of years, and it does a great job on pork butts.

I built this smoker to try and get a drier smoke (better bark?) as well as a good smoke ring.

Not trying to hijack my own thread here, but the last thing I want is to have a smoker that is too efficient. I am hoping for a result that is closer to a stick burner, without the need to constantly tend the fire.

[Puff]

From my own experiences....I have near 100lbs of insulation just estimated by the weight of the cartons from the shipper, and ... Your wish is about to come true!

[Frank_Cox]

Looks awesome! These things are heavy for sure! I once built one for a guy that hailed it home in the back of a newer Toyota with the plastic bed. He made our fine but man! I was not a fan

[Dantes Inferno]

frank- puff- smokingdtown what have you guys done as far as paint is concerned? I'm guessing you don't have to do high temp paint since the outside doesn't get that hot..

[Puff]

I used plain old enamel.... It's now almost a year old and used near 20 times for hours and hours....not a sign of any discoloration or heat issues. Area within 4" of the fire zone has been at 200 degrees but nothing else has come close to even 100.

[Dantes Inferno]

Thanks Puff as always!!


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[Dantes Inferno]

Hey guys couple of things .. The heat and smoke channel M that goes across the bottom of the cooking chamber have any of you ever put any support at the end of it so it isn't just suspended in the air? Also I know this is not a water cooker but what are your thoughts of putting a full hotel pan of water on top of that piece?


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[Dantes Inferno]

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[SmokinDTown]

DF, my measurements have the M welded to the inner skin on the left side of the CC. Hope this helps. Your build looks great!
Chris

[Big T]

I have tried using a water pan in my vertical cooker and I always end up chasing my temps. The water boiled off and I'd adjust my intakes to correct temp and just as I thought I had it right I'd have to adjust my intakes again. I finally quit using a water pan and it's pretty much set it and forget it. jm2cw

[Dantes Inferno]

Thanks Chris! I didn't weld in the inner skins yet so I'm guessing this answer would've been more obvious to me lol and Big T thanks for the insight

[SmokinDTown]

DI, my inner skin moved all over the place! Gap-osis is not our friend! Best to have that skin in place, warped and shrunk, then measure, IMO.
C

[Frank_Cox]

sorry I'm late to the game....
I have used regular old auto paint and powdercoat both are fine.
I do recommend welding tube M to the inner skin but if that is not an option then just use a piece of angle or something to bridge the gap.
Looks great!!!!!

[SmokinDTown]

Frank while your here, what are your thoughts about fabricating an ash pan for the FBA?
Thanks,
Chris

[SmokinDTown]

Was able to tack up the last of the panels today. Here is the door outer skin:


I put the latch on, then tacked the skin in place.



I then started to finish up welding the outer skins to frame:


Looks like it might be a few days before I get back to it.

[Puff]

It that carpet she's standing on....does it roll on that stuff? I really wanted to build my BABY SIZED GRAVITY FEED using a brake to make folded edges for the skins. Might still find a plan I understand to build one when the plans are ultimately available.

How did your door seal turn out?