That might be tough as you would have to rotate the smoker so you could fill it without making a huge mess. Plus that stuff is expansive when heated
Just looked, it would cost way more then mineral wool. I'm paying less than $1.00 a sq foot. I bought 70sq for $60.
Note going back for a bit more as I insulated the inner wall too
I think you've done a great job.... You thoughts are pretty good on dimensions and I only overcame the 4x8 by using an extra sheet so that would be a good idea. I'll bet that you can shorten the two inches without penalty. You could use a threaded coupler right on the outer edge for the ball valve to be removed and replaced. Since I can't move it through doorways it stays out in the garage so that part never crossed my mind. I did not have to cut the upper tubing to install the chute. Is this dimension correct? It seems as though everything else fit together well
Make no mistake, there ain't no powder in this Puff ! And... I'm not really a crazy person but I play one in real life
Ok got the door clamped into position. The bullet hinges are a bit small. I'm going to weld on some wings
The next issue is the slam latch, it not so easy to get the holes just right. Plus you need to find the rivnut gun that has been lost for more than a year.
Plan B it's 10 times better. Take some 3" x .25 plate and drill tap on the bench and then weld on to the door and post.
Way better, if you don't like it super simple to move it too, if you just tack it in place.
Note: one could use 2" tubing so the door don't bow out from the insulation. Was not about to cut down the 2" wool insulation.
Just add a space on the post side to make it work.
As for cutting the frame, I wanted the firebox fully welded, including the C channel
I found with it all welded you could not slip it under the frame rail and get the C channel to line up with the hole in the cook chamber. I was able to just slide it in place, plus it saved my back as that fire box is one heavy son of a gun. Welding the tube back in was easy and not an issue at all. I'm just following the plans and not thinking too much ahead.
"You could use a threaded coupler right on the outer edge for the ball valve to be removed and replaced"
I like that idea! I thought about having the nipple threads sticking out, but a coupler would be perfect as the threads are protected.
Need to download the rest of the building photos.
Its done !!
I decided an ash tray is useless. The easiest thing to do is just put a pan on the ground and scrap the ashes into the pan. I found I needed to tap on the ash grate after a few hours as the ash was not falling through.
It's super easy to use and very efficient.
Maybe in a couple months I'll buy the mini plans and build another one
It is an 800lbs gorilla. Lol. Just been lasy on uploading the last few pics.
I used 0.23 wire for the skin as it works a bit better then 0.30. I normally only use 0.30, but the 0.23 flows better when welding thin metal. I was able to get the corners to match up without over lapping. When welding it burn through to the frame and welded the panels nice. I did not even grind them. For perfect smooth seam one could use car Bondo. My top is a mess as the sheet metal warped when welding the flue pipe.
The other issues were the small doors. The skin bulge a bit even when it was clamped. I had to take a 2lbs hammer to hammer the sheet metal down. I went a bit pass flat as the fire box grows about 1/8 taller when hot. Just hit along the inside of the door frame and it looks good when done
Great Job!!!
as far as the chute being welded all the way keepin mind that the fire wants all the air it can get. if it gets it from leaks and stuff you will not be able to control your temp. this includes the curbs (or jambs) around the chute doors. they need to be welded solid to the chute. This is the most common place that is forgotten. that is where the spacers go on the top door.