Thanks for the clarification, looks like I have it designed correctly. also, ill plan on adding a damper.Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 27th, 2020, 10:37 pm
The calculator gives chimney length from top of cook chamber. If you choose extend it down to the grate (and I don’t recommend it), you ignore that length and still add the chimney length as indicated from the top of the cook chamber. I have a damper on mine. Keeps the cook chamber better sealed from dust/dirt when not in use and can be used to choke off the exhaust a bit if needed. Your choice to add but I don’t think you will regret the minimal extra work to put one on.
Makes sense.Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 27th, 2020, 10:37 pm
A damper on the throat is usually not used. I put one in mine so I could close my cook chamber off and direct all heat to my warmer box only in the case I wanted to cook only in the warmer box. However, it is not the best method to reduce heat to the cook chamber as it is best to control the fire air intake instead and to be honest, I don’t ever use it.
Can you possibly take a picture fo your shadow plate? Id like to see how you did it.Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 27th, 2020, 10:37 pm
Cook chamber placement is fine. No matter what you do, expect to loose about 18 inches of you grate space next to the fire as it will be too hot. A shadow plate is recommended but it’s still going to be hot.
Thanks! How do people handle the rust when not in use for a couple months?Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 27th, 2020, 10:37 pm
Stainless is completely unnecessary unless you are a business and required by local food handling regulations. 99% of the pits bolt on this site are standard carbon steel.
Thats a really good point about the condensation. Thanks.dacolson wrote: ↑July 28th, 2020, 12:05 amWelcome! Dirtytires has got you heading in the right direction ... for the most part, lol. I have my stack built at grate level - with a smoke collector - on both my builds. One’s a reverse flow, the other’s a standard offset. Both draft well and lay done a lot of smoke on the meat. And, there’s no condensation dripping down the stack potentially onto the meat.
There, DT. You happy? Now you can argue.
Ya I actually plan on staying up all night and watching the fire. Call me naive but I think I will really enjoy the cooking process. I really related to Franklins approach to enjoying the process and not just hitting a button on a grill and BBQ popping out.Pete Mazz wrote: ↑July 28th, 2020, 3:10 amA RF smoker is much easier to maintain consistent temps. If you build a standard offset, I highly recommend tuning plates so you can adjust the side to side temps. Franklins works obviously but keep in mind he has full time pitmasters tending them day and night.
So if I am understanding you correctly, you are trying to eliminate the 2" from bottom of throat to bottom of CC. In order to do that I think id have to add a plate as shown in the below picture due to the fact that the end cap of the tank is rounded.towtruck wrote: ↑July 28th, 2020, 11:32 amMyself I would lower your FB to CC. You only need a dam across the bottom and that two inches you have there would be better served as an opening and lower the heat down in the CC. Also, If you are not set on a round FB a square box will drop that fb even more and keep the same sq" opening.
That filler plate may or may not be needed. I just looked at your original drawing and saw the extra 2" of material around the bottom half. A dam at the very bottom is all that is needed. By cutting out most of that 2" lip you could lower the opening and keep the same sq" size.thejm wrote: ↑July 29th, 2020, 8:39 amSo if I am understanding you correctly, you are trying to eliminate the 2" from bottom of throat to bottom of CC. In order to do that I think id have to add a plate as shown in the below picture due to the fact that the end cap of the tank is rounded.towtruck wrote: ↑July 28th, 2020, 11:32 amMyself I would lower your FB to CC. You only need a dam across the bottom and that two inches you have there would be better served as an opening and lower the heat down in the CC. Also, If you are not set on a round FB a square box will drop that fb even more and keep the same sq" opening.
Firebox Placement connecting plate.pdf
Does that show your idea correctly?
Thanks. I think I can figure this out.Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 29th, 2020, 11:01 amSorry, no way to get a picture of my shadow plate. It’s tucked in behind the firebox and covered in soot...not going to be able to see anything.
I screwed up and didn’t put it in during construction so had to wiggle it in thru the throat because I didn’t want to cut into my baffle plate. Most times a shadow plate is just a heavy plate that starts at the throat and extents horizontally into the cook chamber for 10-18 inches. The purpose is to even out the hot blast from the fire as it enters the cook chamber.
Thanks that was a good picture of it.dacolson wrote: ↑July 29th, 2020, 6:32 pmMankussm has a pic in his current build thread: http://www.smokerbuilder.com/forums/vie ... =11&t=7581
Most of the way to the bottom of the first page of the thread. He calls it a ghost plate but it’s the same idea.
Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 10:57 amInsulation can be any material that is heat rated in the 2000 degree range. Many here use Roxul or a ceramic insulation. Do a quick search of “high temp insulation” to get some ideas. I Chose to use a ceramic insulation because I found a 1” thick material that had same r-value of the 2” thick Roxul and was able to make my firebox just a bit less bulky looking.
Hinges are builders choice. We have seen everything from complicated custom hinges to old door hinges. I used a large bullet hinge because I liked the low profile of it and the ability to remove all my doors should they need to be. Whatever you use, make sure it is sturdy and reliable as your door (especially with a counterweight) can weigh a few hundred pounds and will get irritating if it does not work properly every time you use it.
Did you experience any warping on your cooker doors? Are they braced somehow other than with the straps?dacolson wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 11:40 amOn the door - I would add a cross bar per the pic above. I did not on my first. I built my vents into the door which got in the way of cross bars. I get some warpage. Even on 1/4" plate. It settles down once my temps come into range but it makes airflow control a little less predictable.
I would love to read that if you can find it. He has such an incredible attention to detail and usually has insights that most others done havemp4 wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 12:55 pmSo I'll just read an article this morning that Frank put out that spelled out the differences in operation between a reverse flow and a conventional (Texas style) offset. I learned a lot in a short time...do you think I can find it now...heck NO!
Turns out a conventional cooks from the top down and lends itself towards a higher firebox and a lower chimney location....I'll keep looking for a reference to it and get back to you.
Dirtytires wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 1:34 pmUnlike the firebox, Cook chamber door won’t need to be braced as the cook chamber is only going to be at 250 degrees for smoking. If you turn your cook chamber into a grill, warpage could become an issue depending on material, thickness and temps.
https://smokerbuildermfg.com/blogs/news ... PVOnMgzsE8thejm wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 1:02 pmI would love to read that if you can find it. He has such an incredible attention to detail and usually has insights that most others done havemp4 wrote: ↑July 31st, 2020, 12:55 pmSo I'll just read an article this morning that Frank put out that spelled out the differences in operation between a reverse flow and a conventional (Texas style) offset. I learned a lot in a short time...do you think I can find it now...heck NO!
Turns out a conventional cooks from the top down and lends itself towards a higher firebox and a lower chimney location....I'll keep looking for a reference to it and get back to you.