Ya these tanks are usually made by rolling a flat piece of steel into a cylinder so the steel will have a lot of built up tension. That’s why the doors warp. Good to know about the method to fix it though!Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 6th, 2020, 10:57 amDoor warpage is everyone’s fear. I am a believer that a tank/pipe is pre-disposed to springing based on how it was built. Remember that a certain amount of energy is stored in the metal and it will try to return to the shape it wants to.
Try not to let your cutting heat build up in the door is about all you can do. I let a little on each corner to hold the door till the end then cut it out completely. If you have to straighten it, it is a pretty easy process with a chain and bottle jack so don’t let it ruin your day.
Mounting the hinges now means that you will have to use internal tank flanges. I like to put mine on the door so proper space has to be accounted for the flange and half the gasket thickness before mounting the hinge. If it’s too tight, the gasket at the top of the door will bind.
Okay so just to be clear, the door will sit such that its slightly above the rest of the tank? I made this quick drawing showing the cross-section of what I think it will look like according to your posts.
That makes sense. I’ll fit the door before I buy a gasket.Dirtytires wrote: ↑September 7th, 2020, 10:37 amYou got it....the main point here is do not attach hinges until the completed door is ready to attach back to the tank.
Then it is easy. Simply place a shim that is half the thickness of your gasket (I tape small flat-washers to the tank) and place the door on top. Hold it with a ratchet strap or two wrapped around the tank. Once you get your door centered on the opening where you want it, attach the hinges.
It seems a little sloppy at first but will fit perfectly once you get the gasket in.
You might want to see how much gap you need to fill before you purchase a gasket. I managed to get my door straight to within 0.0625” so used a thin flat gasket (a lava rock self stick 0.25 wide by 0.125 thick, if I remember correctly). If you have larger gaps, you would obviously want a thicker gasket.
Makes sense. Thanks!Big T wrote: ↑September 7th, 2020, 10:02 pmI used to drill a hole in the door and mount them through the door with the washer and nut. My last couple of builds I bought a threaded pipe coupler that fit the threads on the thermometer from the hardware store, I blew a hole through the door and welded the coupler into the door. If you choose to use a threaded coupler be sure to mount it flush to the outside of the door.
Thats what im leaning towards.hogaboomer wrote: ↑September 8th, 2020, 9:18 pmBuy a tap, drill your hole and make your own threads.
I do the same thing. Thread the drill hole in the door itself.thejm wrote: ↑September 8th, 2020, 10:02 pmThats what im leaning towards.hogaboomer wrote: ↑September 8th, 2020, 9:18 pmBuy a tap, drill your hole and make your own threads.