Haha, it happens to the best of us.dacolson wrote: ↑September 2nd, 2020, 5:38 pmThought of you today BigT. Cut the FB opening too deep for the new baffle so I cut a strip off the section of the bell and added it back in. Then realized I didn’t account for the the throat baffle in the smaller opening. Had to add steel back in and cut some corners off and rewelded a bunch of crap. Measured twice, cut 3 times, welded some stuff back in, cut again ... FML!
Yup. Got 2 x 6’ lengths of 2x4 channel for a new tongue and hitch.
thx andysmoked. hopefully it worksandysmoked wrote: ↑September 11th, 2020, 2:04 amLooking good Dave. I really like that baffle.
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That all depends on what you your time is worth. Most wouldn't notice the transition between the slight bump between raw steel and new steel. I might save the $200 and sand a little between the two, which would get rid of the paint transition, Also If you have a DA sander you could also rough up the paint without making swirl marks like a sanding disc might do, which would help the new paint to stick. I think you can make it look just as good by spending an hour or so on it. If you don't have a Dual Action sander you can buy one at a local building store for around $60 > Home depot. Then you would have it for the next build too. IMO and 2cents
Lol. Love it.towtruck wrote: ↑September 11th, 2020, 2:31 pmLooking good!.
$200 for just the trailer?......meh, I know it's lots of works blasting all the nooks and crannies so the labor is there.....you either scuff it yourself or pay.....I would get a quote to blast the completed rig and make up my mind there.....
Since I cannot keep paint on my rig I have given up caring how it looks...as long as it's not rotting away I'm good with a little rust.
Hey Rodcrafter - glad to get your input. The opening is from the pitcalc recommendation. I rounded the numbers up/down per below to 20x10x5:Rodcrafter wrote: ↑September 17th, 2020, 8:00 amI'm glad he went with the square FB. On that point why is the FB to CC opening so big? I'm not criticizing just wondering if you are using the same Pit Calculator number as when you were going to have the warming cabinet on the opposite end. Typically the opening is well below the center line of the CC. This would allow for a shadow plate and BP below the bottom rack, if you were going to have those.
I have made almost the same build of the original drawing and modified it to something much different. I always try crazy stuff, with the idea of making it the best.
Thx Rodcrafter. Hope so.Rodcrafter wrote: ↑September 17th, 2020, 9:27 amI see now, when I saw the opening on the CC I thought the whole thing was going to be throat. Interesting idea to help direct the heat/smoke even though it takes that path anyway. It's going to be a nice rig. Good job!
Hoping for two effects. 1. better/more even top-down heat from convection. 2. less microwave action right there at the FB end of the grate. I'll do some testing before it goes on it's way to TN.dacolson wrote: ↑September 17th, 2020, 9:30 amThx Rodcrafter. Hope so.Rodcrafter wrote: ↑September 17th, 2020, 9:27 amI see now, when I saw the opening on the CC I thought the whole thing was going to be throat. Interesting idea to help direct the heat/smoke even though it takes that path anyway. It's going to be a nice rig. Good job!