Cook Chamber Door Opening Warped On New Build

[hogaboomer]

I thought about that this morning after the fire was already going. No explosions yet. I'll drill a hole when this cook is done, and hope I don't die in the meantime. Maybe one of my welds is leaking.

[hogaboomer]

[dacolson]

Man that looks fantastic. I gotta remember to throw potatoes on when I cook.

[hogaboomer]

pic deleted from flickr.com. I think this was just the finished brisket

[Big T]

[hogaboomer]

It turned out pretty good, but that sure is a long process. I think I'll just stick to ribs in the future.

[Saskattak]

Wow, I obviously haven't been on the forum that much, you built a full rig since. Looks great! Job well done!

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[hogaboomer]

Thanks! Actually, I started this one up around Thanksgiving, but I only get to work on it a couple of days a week.

[BryanW]

Too bad there isn't some way to heat these huge pipe sections up and relieve all the expansion stresses before cutting the door openings. Does anybody have a pickup sized blast furnace I can borrow for a couple days? I am in the process of rounding up my materials for my first build. If the wall thickness of the pipe is heavier is there generally less or more size change when cutting doors? I have a 50 ton hydraulic press i could probably use to get things to play nice but much easier to anneal first if possible. Could a builder just build a raging hot fire and stand the pipe upright and get it hot enough to relieve the internal stress?

[hogaboomer]

There's a method where you cut the pipe lengthwise to let the stress out, then weld in a strip where it sprung apart. I plan on trying it out on my next build. I believe it was discussed earlier in this very thread. It's a bunch of work, but sounds easier than trying to bend the door to fit.

edit: Yep, tinspark linked to a video on the first page.

[dacolson]

Hold my beer ... just ordered my 3/8 steel to patch the bottom of my 24” pipe. Gonna cut it as soon as It gets in. Pics coming ...

[Dirtytires]

Too bad there isn't some way to heat these huge pipe sections up and relieve all the expansion stresses before cutting the door openings. Does anybody have a pickup sized blast furnace I can borrow for a couple days? I am in the process of rounding up my materials for my first build. If the wall thickness of the pipe is heavier is there generally less or more size change when cutting doors? I have a 50 ton hydraulic press i could probably use to get things to play nice but much easier to anneal first if possible. Could a builder just build a raging hot fire and stand the pipe upright and get it hot enough to relieve the internal stress?

Just cut the door. If it warps, address and fix the issue.

Sometimes they warp and sometimes they don’t and I’m a true believer that you are never going to prevent it and it can always be fixed. With that said, we have more time spent and headaches caused by door issues than any other concern. The tanks seem to be much more likely to spring than a pipe and thinner than 0.25 inch seems to cause issues.

Just my observation...chose your cook chamber wisely!

[BryanW]

Ok outstanding. I am still waiting to hear back from my buddy that I will be getting my CC pipe from. He said they carry 24" in 1/4", 3/8" and even 1/2". Almost tempted to use 1/2" but that bugger is going to be ridiculously heavy! Won't probably ever be moved much but if and when it ever would need to be moved I would need a skid loader or something! Lol

[hogaboomer]

I won't use anything thicker than 1/4 inch anymore. All that extra weight is unnecessary, and just takes longer to heat up.

[Dirtytires]

Ditto....0.25 is just fine...and in my opinion is the perfect thickness as well. Much thinner, you loose efficiency/heat retention and can introduce all sorts of warping issues. Much thicker, it becomes a pain to work with and you only gain marginal heat retention.

[hogaboomer]

All the welding is finally done, ready for the finishing touch. Trying to decide between clear coat and boiled linseed oil.

[dacolson]

I’m kind of leaning towards BLO on mine now simply b/c of maintenance. I figure once the finish on the clear coat starts to go, it’s a huge hassle to deal with - sanding and re-spraying. With BLO it’s just heat it up and hit it w a soaked rag 2x a year and you’re off.


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[hogaboomer]

Hell of a lot cheaper too.

[Saskattak]

Ugh, I am in a constant internal struggle how to finish mine. Raw or paint. Or sandblast, spray with water to rust evenly then BLO. I live in a very dry area so I am not afraid of atmospheric attack like along coastal areas. Will be way easier to maintain to, cuz it's already rusty LOL.

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[hogaboomer]

Just sold The Cadillac for the full $2,000. One last pic with the Tel Tru I put in the other day:

[dacolson]

Fantastic! That's awesome Boomer. Patience paid off.

Btw, did you put a finish on it? It looks sweet in that pic. Cant tell if you hit it with linseed or not.

[hogaboomer]

Yes, that's the linseed oil.

[Big T]

Awesome

[hogaboomer]

I'm pretty stoked. Starting to wonder if anything was ever gonna sell.

The last pic is the one with the linseed. I didn't get it really hot, so it didn't come out so dark, but it still beads water.

[dacolson]

I'm pretty stoked. Starting to wonder if anything was ever gonna sell.

The last pic is the one with the linseed. I didn't get it really hot, so it didn't come out so dark, but it still beads water.

It looks really great. I know what you mean. I oil all the shelving, legs, racks, etc. The oil sets up after 24-48 hours and stays mostly clear except where it gets hot. Feels dry to the touch. I love the look.
Really glad you got a great price on it. You put out a great pit.