Brick Offset & Vertical Smoker with Outdoor Kitchen

[BigPete]

6mm is almost 1/4" plate! That will not be easy to bend! How much is it out? Could you just use a gasket?

I didn't measure it but probably about 5mm. I have some rope seal gaskets that I had planned already but they compress down to about 3mm, meaning there could still be a gap?

[dacolson]

That's really tough Pete. You're building a beautiful permanent brick kitchen. It's up to you really, but I'd consider cutting the door and trying to get it straight again before mounting it permanently. That's a bummer. Especially on a thick piece like this.

[Big T]

If you're anything like me, it'll drive you crazy every time you look at it.

[BigPete]

Just had another investigation and it seems the top and bottom are out by about 3mm, the middle is about -1mm (but only on the left non hinge side)

The beads on the front of the door run the whole length and I think if I try and cut them out I will end up scrapping the whole piece

FYI it all probably weighs about 70lbs

[hogaboomer]

Rig something to hold the two sides down and push the middle with a bottle jack.

[hogaboomer]

This is what we use at work for straightening bowed pipe

[BigPete]

Rig something to hold the two sides down and push the middle with a bottle jack.

This is similar to what I was thinking thanks. Put a piece of 12mm round bar between the frame and door at the 'low' part, close the door so the round bar is trapped then 4x G clamps on each corner. Heating and tightening at the same time to bring or back in.

[hogaboomer]

That should work. Be careful you don't go too far and put a crease in the middle

[dacolson]

Good luck BigPete!! Fingers crossed sir.

[Dirtytires]

Might just be time to buy a shop press....I had no idea how often I would use it but now can’t imagine being without it.

[BigPete]

Might just be time to buy a shop press....I had no idea how often I would use it but now can’t imagine being without it.

Haha I wish, I'd take a picture or my garage/workshop but 1) it's embarrassing the state of it and 2) there's literally zero space left!!

I did manage to bend the door back in and it seems a lot better. Not perfect but much better than before!! Between the hinges might need a little tweaking but should be good!!

[dacolson]

Looks better. Nice work.


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[Cole Leffert]

Nice work!!!

[BigPete]

Never thought I'd be struggling to get my hole ... Been drilling holes for thermometers (20mm) in the 6mm plate and destroyed 2 bits already just to get 1 and a half holes...

Tried slow and letting cool between each size as I'm going up. Also tried fast but am still struggling... What am I missing?? lol

[dacolson]

Are you using tap oil? Or WD40. Heat can cause work hardening which is hard on bits so you want to avoid it vs just letting it cool. Slower is better and use oil. It sounds like you are starting with a smaller bit and moving up? That can help but I find that using a step bit to get you most of the way is a lot easier on the bits. Also, if you are hand drilling, keep as steady as possible. A little sideways torque can snap you right off. Any larger than 20mm and I'd switch to a hole saw through that 6mm steel on a hand drill.

Step bit:

Tap oil:

[Big T]

I drilled several 7/8'' holes in 3/8'' plate on a cooker that I built about 10 years ago and it was a nightmare. When I was building my next cooker I started dreading having to drill the holes for my thermometers and someone recommended blowing a hole with a torch and welding a threaded coupler in the hole. I have used this method to mount my thermometers from that day forward.

[BigPete]

Are you using tap oil? Or WD40. Heat can cause work hardening which is hard on bits so you want to avoid it vs just letting it cool. Slower is better and use oil. It sounds like you are starting with a smaller bit and moving up? That can help but I find that using a step bit to get you most of the way is a lot easier on the bits. Also, if you are hand drilling, keep as steady as possible. A little sideways torque can snap you right off. Any larger than 20mm and I'd switch to a hole saw through that 6mm steel on a hand drill.

Step bit:
Screen Shot 2021-02-02 at 1.14.09 PM.png

Tap oil:
Screen Shot 2021-02-02 at 1.15.25 PM.png

I wasnt using oil, after a bit of research yesterday I think i'll have to do that. Yes it seems that one hole is much harder now (I guess due to hardening) I also learnt the sideways torque lesson the hard way, thankfully a broken bit rather than a broken wrist!

I drilled several 7/8'' holes in 3/8'' plate on a cooker that I built about 10 years ago and it was a nightmare. When I was building my next cooker I started dreading having to drill the holes for my thermometers and someone recommended blowing a hole with a torch and welding a threaded coupler in the hole. I have used this method to mount my thermometers from that day forward.

Thats a good idea, I'd need to check the threads/depth as the thermometers are different from the 'probe type' ones.

[Cole Leffert]

You can't over do the oil but not enough and you will work harden the steel and mess up the heat treat on the drill and the drill will be trash and keep the rpm slow!

[BigPete]

You can't over do the oil but not enough and you will work harden the steel and mess up the heat treat on the drill and the drill will be trash and keep the rpm slow!

Just did a smaller hole and threaded it for the handles, worked so much better with oil thanks!

Random question, if I'm making grills from mild steel do I need to remove the mill scale?

Also 1 or 2 handles/locks on the door. @Cole I saw you did 2 locks, any reason why you did?

[dacolson]

No need to remove mill scale on the grill. Seasoning will cover.


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[Dirtytires]

Use a hole saw....so much easier.

[Cole Leffert]

You can't over do the oil but not enough and you will work harden the steel and mess up the heat treat on the drill and the drill will be trash and keep the rpm slow!

Just did a smaller hole and threaded it for the handles, worked so much better with oil thanks!

Random question, if I'm making grills from mild steel do I need to remove the mill scale?

Also 1 or 2 handles/locks on the door. @Cole I saw you did 2 locks, any reason why you did?

I probably didn't need it but I am a big fan of building stuff overkill!! Two wasn't going to hurt anything but one could possible not be enough! More important, I thought it looked cool!!!

[BigPete]

Haha yes it does look cool.

Check this out, I'm still struggling to get this hole widened from 16/18mm to 20mm. A brand new bit, slowly with oil did absolutely nothing. Really at a loss how to get this drilled I guess as it's hardened now.

Here's the b@stard hole vs one that went ok.

Here's also the handle, end drilled, tapped and finished with a countersunk washer.

[BigPete]

Use a hole saw....so much easier.

Have one on order after all the swearing at 9am this morning

[dacolson]

Haha yes it does look cool.

Check this out, I'm still struggling to get this hole widened from 16/18mm to 20mm. A brand new bit, slowly with oil did absolutely nothing. Really at a loss how to get this drilled I guess as it's hardened now.

Here's the b@stard hole vs one that went ok.20210206_102604.jpg
20210206_102618.jpg

Here's also the handle, end drilled, tapped and finished with a countersunk washer.

20210206_102644.jpg

Your step bit is trashed at the width you are at. Dull. It’s done.

Here’s a tip to drill that hole you’ve already started once you get your hole saw. It will be hard to finish your existing hole since it’s larger than your pilot hole for the saw. Cut a hole with your hole saw in a piece of scrap. Then clamp or tack the scrap over the hole you’re trying to finish as a guide. It will make finishing that hole so much easier. Use your cutting oil a lot with the hole saw as well. Don’t put too much pressure on it while you cut.