Everything Fire Box

[bohica]

Hello Everyone, I was wondering if it would be handy to have topic that is just about the firebox. A how to or a one stop shop if you will. I think it would be a fast and informational thread to have people take close up pics of the different types of accessories their firebox's have. Insulated, non-insulated, round, square, ash pans/drawers, air flow inlet idea's and how you made your latching devices. What does everyone think? I know when I built my first reverse flow, the hardest thing for me was to think how I was going to make a cam device to shut the firebox door. I know it seems silly, but I blame by bald spot on that one thing from all of the head scratchin'. Thanks for everyone's time.

[maccas66]

Welcome bohica, not a bad idea!, would make looking for ideas a bit easier.

[rlmax02]

look at the latches and air inlets on the king cooker build. very simple and efficient to build. looks good 2

[GrillSgt.7405]

It would b ez for the experienced to just look. But if you are a beginner like me, more xplanation sure makes things run alot smoother.

[Frank_Cox]

Good Idea! maybe even a video or 2?

[hank1965]

this would be great if people where posting close ups og latches and handles and giving brief explanations on how to make them. ive seen some great stuff but the photos arent close enough or detailed enough with our explanations to just figure them out

thanks guys

[The Czar]

I would say all you have to do is ask and the guys usually are great about getting something for you.....

[smokeyjoe]

how would a cast iron wood stove work as a fire box?

[Gizmo]

with the right opening and size for the cook chamber it should work fine.
But most of the cast iron wood stove's I've seen didn't seal well enough ...

[Frank_Cox]

sorry joe, I did not reply to you on FB yet...
It would work fine if it is the right size. you usually need to increase the air inlet openings tho.
as far as the welding part goes you can not use regular welding wire/ rods for cast tho. If I remember (someone correct me if I'm wrong) you use a nickle alloy for cast

[The Czar]

Good lord.....talk about adding some serious azz weight.......

[DUAYNE B]

nickel rod and heat the piece up that you are welding...........

[smokeyjoe]

I'm a big boy. The weight ain't a problem. ACTUALLY I'm not gonna build mine on a trailer. Mine is going to be stationary.

[smokeyjoe]

Here's what I'd like to know just in case the cast iron stove thing doesn't pan out. Is 1/4" thick steel necessary for a firebox or would thinner stuff be ok? I certainly won't go too thin but just curious.

[The Czar]

Well...all I can say is this....... ..........

1/4" seems to be the perfect balance....it doesn't take a bunch of fuel to reach temp. and once there it is very stable....with thinner metal you don't use as much fuel to reach temp. but you do use more to maintain it.....

[Smokeone]

What he said!

Sent from my iPhone using Forum Runner

[smokendink71]

[SoloQue]

Here are some pics of my air inlets, I have an 8 inch opening on each side which is pretty much straight by the calculator for my rig. The idea is that I can dial up whatever airflow I want. I saw this a few times and explained the concept to TQ. I think he nailed it which by that time didn't surprise me much.

Fully closed means just that, that exterior plate snugs up nicely for a good seal, if I do the guru I will add gasket seals to the inside edge of the cover plates just to reduce all posible leakage


3 turns out gives me around 225 with my firebasket loads, this is more like 12 turns, the air changes are gradual and measureable


Wide open is mainly for startup

[hank1965]

great pic soloque these are what we need to get ideas and see how its done...im still really interested in fire box doors and handles and hinges

[maccas66]

Hank, here are my firebox hinges, dampner and handle

[The Czar]

Solo and Alan.... ....and thanks for sharing!!!

[hank1965]

very nice maccas66 thank you

[Wreckless]

I guess i haven't put much thought into this lately. i just build them these days. on second review, I did at one time. so here goes.. use the pit calculator by Tom C or Feldons. These tools rock and were developed by fellow enthusiasts, thanks guys! I try and go a bit over 100% on everything, Mr K.A.M. "Approved" it is additional reserve as he calls it, it works. Rule one..no lip on the bottom. Seems to be common sense but I have rehabbed many a FB with this fuax pax. You can't clean it out efficiently and so you will not. the heavy duty 1/4" plate will be toast soon enough. Rule 2...a 1" lip for a grease trap in the case of failure to clean or overflo from your cook on the cook chamber inlet, gotta have it. Rule 3...it has got to breath. Inlet dampers are crucial. so are a decent grate to get the fire off of the bottom. Seems like duh? I have seen many lately where this was forgotten. I have 2 styles when building a firebox. When leaving the bell ends on a propane tank build, I build them modular(?) meaning I build them and mount them. When the bell ends are removed, my end plate goes on and extends to create the back of the FB. The rest is build onto the cooker. I prefer the seamless / rounded appearance on the exterior of my FB so a corner joint is used and ground smooth. I full weld the inside as well. Overkill? Perhaps. How long does it take tho? not long. My FB does not move tho, never. Anyone that has had a door freeze due to temps can attest this is a beyotch. Not on my watch. Protest or disagree if you will, it has not happened yet. Fact. My inlet dampers are water jet. Expensive but they look good, better than i can freehand, just my recipe, many home cut dampers look great, just the path i have chosen. F Just my $.02 worth and it works well One more thought..i use 7/16 rod for my handles .. it doesnt scrape the paint when i add on the cool handles. All....please feel free to PM me if you have any questions...

[The Czar]

Nice.....and I see your a fan of the bullet hinges?

[Wreckless]

Nice.....and I see your a fan of the bullet hinges?

Yeah, dcman, i am a fan of the bullets. i have a design that works for the gullwing ( typical) type curved doors. one spans the the cross section and is bolted in the center. i used it for a long time but it had flaws that I could not work out, self tightening being the offender. the other is k.a.m.'s design where it uses schedule 80 seamless pipe and uses 1/2" rod. They are genious when needed but currently this is what I use. The bullets are low cost, work like a dream, i have seen no need to do anything else, the old " if it ain't broke...why fix it" Someone can school me on the errors of my ways, Wreckless is always open to a better mouse trap, i just enjoy what i do and help where I can, it has been extended to me, i pay it forward