Build advice, for my build

[Silent_hunter]

I have a few old propane tanks a 100, 120 and 220. This will be my first smoker build. My original Idea was to build a smoker and grill. I was planning on a patio style due to the build cost, but I have been asked to cook for special events and like to do chili type cook offs. If I made a small trailer model, I think It would leave me with more options like small events, cook offs, renting it out and my daughters wedding. My smoker build should be similar to a lang 60. I have never cooked on a RF smoker before.

Specs on the build:
5/16" 100 gal propane tank for the cook chamber approx 23.5" x 62.5"
door opening 16 x 48
rf plate 1/4" with adjustable baffle
fire box 20 x 20

Now for the questions before I start.

I plan on doing an adjustable baffle plate at the opposite end from the firebox. What is the largest opening that I should allow at the baffle?

How thick is the trim pieces around the smoker doors? 1/8" or thicker

does it make a difference if the baffle plate is flat or a two piece with angle iron in the middle?

How far should the firebox stick into the cook chamber?

how to make my grill?

first option is to do a separate grill out of the 120gal tank cut in half lengthwise, with an adjustable cooking grate and it would be set parallel to the smoker.

second build a hybrid like the lang 48 http://langbbqsmokers.com/lang48/lang48_hybrid.html

third which I like for the ease of building http://www.tx-bbq-smokers.com/smokers_m ... _style.htm

fourth just do a small grill on the front of the trailer.

Or do I really need to worry about it, and can I get the RF smoker hot enough to cook steaks, veggies, and burgers on.

[k.a.m.]

Silent_hunter,
I plan on doing an adjustable baffle plate at the opposite end from the firebox. What is the largest opening that I should allow at the baffle?
Personally I do not use baffles but you will need to have at least the same opening as your firebox to cooking chamber opening. Any smaller and you will bottleneck the heat/smoke making the turn.

How thick is the trim pieces around the smoker doors? 1/8" or thicker
I use 1.5" x 1/8" flat bar. I split the difference with 3/4" on both sides.

does it make a difference if the baffle plate is flat or a two piece with angle iron in the middle?
As long as you have at least a 1" fall away from the firebox flat or Vee groove will work. ( I prefer the Vee groove).

How far should the firebox stick into the cook chamber?
On tanks with elliptical ends I run the firebox into the dome up to the weldment that connects the cylinder and dome. On pipe I butt weld the firebox to the end plate.

how to make my grill?
If your referring to cooking grates on cookers 24" in diameter and less I use 1" x 1" x 1/8" angle iron for my frames and 3/4" x # 9 flat expanded metal for the surface. Any grates larger than 24" I use 1" x 1" x 1/4" angle for the frame, surface stays the same.


Or do I really need to worry about it, and can I get the RF smoker hot enough to cook steaks, veggies, and burgers on.
If set up properly you can cook a steak on a reverse flow however I prefer my steaks on an open flame.
I hope this helps.

[Frank_Cox]

Silent_hunter,
I plan on doing an adjustable baffle plate at the opposite end from the firebox. What is the largest opening that I should allow at the baffle?
Personally I do not use baffles but you will need to have at least the same opening as your firebox to cooking chamber opening. Any smaller and you will bottleneck the heat/smoke making the turn.

Only thing I do differently is the BP Gap. here is a quote from another thread about how I do the gap....

It depends on how you want your smoker to be tuned. If you want your smoker to perform more consistently at higher cooking temps, the Gap should be figured bigger. If you want it to perform more consistently at lower temps, say 225*F then you would want the gap to be tighter.
this being said if you do not know where fits your needs best then as I always say, make it adjustable...
I tune the pits I design to cook more evenly at lower temps.
a good rule of thumb to start with is:

• you want the gap to be bigger in square inches than the area of your smoke stack opening... 6" diam. round smoke stack opening= 28.26"sq. so your gap area would need to at least that big.
• you want your smaller in square inches than your firebox to cook chamber opening.....

hope this helps!

This being said, on my 160 Gallon RF Build I made an adjustable baffle plate. most of the time I used that smoker whether it was summer or winter the gap was almost always set for 1". that was the most efficient and even tune i could run. I had times that the temp drop across the cook chamber was only 1-5 degrees over a 72" cook chamber. Now I wouldn't recommend running a gap that close unless you used an adjustable plate or I did the dimensions / plans. I figure my builds very tight on the dimensions, but for the sake of changing cooking styles on a whim (no comments from you dcman) I like to figure in an adjustable BP gap.

[Smokeone]

And we know you wouldnt do that Frank!

[The Czar]

[DUAYNE B]

good reading there,,,, gonna build another soon, adjustable bp will be part of plans

[k.a.m.]

Frank, what I have found over the years is that if the cooker is set up with enough intake, exhaust and firebox to cooking chamber opening no baffle plate is needed. Once my cookers stabilize the grate temps only vary between 5° and 10° left to right. Now I could see some what of an advantage with having one in the warm up stages allowing for the heat to be restricted and concentrate on the R/F plate but over time I have started looking at them like an option more than a necessity.

[Silent_hunter]

I read that some people will burn out the propane tanks after they cut the doors out, and I have also read that some will wait until the build is complete and do a long hot burn. My question is does both work? is one better than the other?

[k.a.m.]

Silent_hunter, either will work and depending on how strong the smell is and whether or not you mind working around it will pretty much be the deciding factor. I do not mind working around it and do not burn them out, about half way through the build it dissipates to near nothing so I wait for the sand blasters to sweep the inside and then season the cooker.
I hope this helps.

[Silent_hunter]

If I make the top of the fire box have a grill, with a 1/4" plate lid, will it let to much heat out while smoking, if the grill is not in use? Hopefully you can understand the question.

[k.a.m.]

Silent_hunter, if you do a raised lip and overlap with the door you will reduce the heat loss. Will there be some yes there will be but depending on your fit up will determine how much. I say if you want it then by all means put it now you will just need to learn the cooker with it rather than without it.
I hope this helps.

[Silent_hunter]

I have had 3 partial days to work on the smoker, and this is where I am at.

[Gizmo]

SH you're making good inroads on that rig - nice work!

[The Czar]

Very nice......

[TuscaloosaQ]

looking good bro keep on rolling!!!!!

[Grabber70Mach]

Looking good, great progress so far.