New to the forum, my first build.. questions

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 3rd, 2013, 4:48 pm

Hey Guys,

First of all thanks for the Forum lots of good info on here!!

I want to build my first smoker. I've got an 81.4 Gallon Propane tank that looks like it used to be a pickup truck tank. I'm debating on a side fire box or reverse flow smoker... I leaning toward the RF, becuase I think in the long run I'll wish I had built it that way the only ( -minus ) I see for my application is the added weight of the design.. This will be a patio smoker and I do want to be able to move it around. A couple of questions I have. From some of the pic's I've seen I don't see Ash pans on these smokers.. do you folks not use them? Also what about some sort of a propane burner for wood/charcoal lighting assist?? Lastly it' looks as if I can cut the tank and use roughly 2/3 of it for the cook chamber and the other 1/3 for the fire box... Here's my initial thoughts... The tank is roughly 20" in diameter and about 63" long... I'm thinking of cutting the tank at about 40"-43" for my cook chamber and using the remainder for a fire box that would be roughly 20"-23" long x 20" Diameter... I'm thinking using the tank as a cook chamber and fire box rather than adding/building a square fire box would cut down on weight making it a little more portable... What are your thoughts and opinions?

Thanks
Carlos

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 3rd, 2013, 5:54 pm

Here's a pic of my tank

TuscaloosaQ · Post by **TuscaloosaQ** » January 3rd, 2013, 6:37 pm

An ash pan can be added no problem I never do i just sweep mine out. That tank is prolly 3/16 thick it would be fine to do as you want, me personally i like a plate firebox because i want to go as least 1/4" thick if not 3/8". Why not use a charcoal
starter then when lite/ start your fire. It is very danderous to have a burner in an enclosed are without a shutdown on it. If the 02 conentent goes down and the burner goes out you will be dumping raw propane into a area that is liable to

be very careful about that. put pneumatic wheels on the cooker if it is apatio model it will roll easy. Reverse flow is awesome, easy to use, you want regret it.

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 3rd, 2013, 7:01 pm

Thanks Tuscaloosa! Ok scratch the propane starter assist!!... I'd much rather not have to worry about it! If I were to go with a plate fire box at 1/4" could I get buy with 3/16" baffle plate in the cook chamber... just trying to weigh the costs..

SoloQue · Post by **SoloQue** » January 3rd, 2013, 7:14 pm

lostbuckaroo wrote:what about some sort of a propane burner for wood/charcoal

I went out and bought a high output cajun cooker set-up with 20psi variable regulator. I get that beast lit and place my charcoal chimney over the flame where the stock pot would normally sit and crank it up. I usually have glowing hot coals in about 5 minutes. Simple, quick and safe. Just don't walk away too long as that flame will eat straight through your charcoal if given a chance. If I had a bigger heavier chimney I could see placing a log in there lengthwise to pre-light if I wanted to. jm2cw

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » January 3rd, 2013, 7:34 pm

There are better places to save weight and cost than the baffle plate. A baffle plate's main contribution to the whole rig is that it has MASS that will GET hot and want to STAY hot - so making it thinner would be noticable ... imho

The Czar · Post by **The Czar** » January 3rd, 2013, 7:37 pm

TuscaloosaQ · Post by **TuscaloosaQ** » January 3rd, 2013, 7:39 pm

you could go 3/16 but like Rick said there will be some sacrifice.No more material than you will use on the baffle plate the savings from 3/16 to 1/4 in minimal

Smokeone · Post by **Smokeone** » January 3rd, 2013, 8:03 pm

Sounds like you have a great start and a plan. It appears that TQ and Rick have got you pointed right. I would go RF too. Good luck and keep the pics coming.

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 3rd, 2013, 8:30 pm

dcman (The Czar) wrote:

Thanks Man!!

Thanks for all the info guys... looks like a better get my materials list together!! We'll see what the weekend brings!!

YouTube · Post by **Frank_Cox** » January 3rd, 2013, 9:26 pm

looks like they got ya goin....

The Czar · Post by **The Czar** » January 4th, 2013, 11:06 am

lostbuckaroo wrote:
dcman (The Czar) wrote:
Thanks Man!!

Thanks for all the info guys... looks like a better get my materials list together!! We'll see what the weekend brings!!

Don't forget.....

.....

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 6th, 2013, 10:55 am

Well went out and bought some pneumatic tires and casters yesterday and started pricing out some materials at the local steel supply.. Dang that stuff is expensive.. I still haven't figured out my final design yet.. just though I'd get a rough idea of costs etc. I want to cut the tank first and figure out the thickness. I know on an earlier post somebody said that it's probably 3/16.. and while that would be fine for the cook chamber they would prefer 1/4 for the fire box...so I guess I need to see what the thickness of the tank is first... cause I kinda wanted to use the other end bell portion of the tank for the fire box. What thickness material (angle iron) are you guys using on your base/roll around cart on these patio rigs?

YouTube · Post by **Frank_Cox** » January 6th, 2013, 11:05 am

I usually use 2x2x1/8 but that is bigger than you need. You would be fine with 1-1/2x1-1/2x1/8

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 6th, 2013, 11:31 am

Thanks Frank!! I think that's the first thing ill build so I can easily move that thing around!

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 6th, 2013, 12:11 pm

I've got some 2x1 or 3/4" tube that I cut off and old trailer but I'm blowing through it in the lowest power setting with my welder.. I thought that would make a nice little frame.. And should be strong enough. Ill have to see about setting up the welder with smaller wire.. I think right now it's setup with .030 wire may try .025..

My uncle recently gave me his old Millermatic 200... It's s sweet welder but I'm still learning how to use it .. I've done some welding but I'm by no means a pro..

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » January 6th, 2013, 12:31 pm

I use .023 wire in an old Miller 135 set to 7 and 70 - works great. 11 gauge is easy and If I'm careful it will also do the lighter gauge (16?) stuff too...

YouTube · Post by **Frank_Cox** » January 6th, 2013, 12:34 pm

haha, killer avatar Rick!

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » January 6th, 2013, 12:40 pm

seemed appropriate ...

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 6th, 2013, 1:01 pm

Rick wrote:I use .023 wire in an old Miller 135 set to 7 and 70 - works great. 11 gauge is easy and If I'm careful it will also do the lighter gauge (16?) stuff too...

Thanks for the tip Rick i'm gonna head to tractor supply today and see what they have for wire..If I can used this square tube I have it'll save me some $$$ and I can put the money into the supplies that more important like that 1/4" BP!!!

Gizmo · Post by **Gizmo** » January 6th, 2013, 1:09 pm

I've never used flux-core wire but some guys on here really like it - might be mostly for outside windy conditions though .... fwiw

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 7th, 2013, 12:49 am

Got some .024 wire today setup in the welder and messed with it briefly.. I pretty sure it'll work... I though I had .030 on it but it was .035... Save that for the the heavy stuff!

TuscaloosaQ · Post by **TuscaloosaQ** » January 7th, 2013, 7:30 am

With that millermatic 200 I would not go less than .030 wire, and it would be hard wire/solid wire it is so much better than flux core wire, your welds will be much slicker and you can weld in all positions no problem. On verts weld downhill been doing it for 30 years,aint nothing to it. That is just my opinion it will be faster, and mo better!!!!!

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 7th, 2013, 1:35 pm

TuscaloosaQ wrote:With that millermatic 200 I would not go less than .030 wire, and it would be hard wire/solid wire it is so much better than flux core wire, your welds will be much slicker and you can weld in all positions no problem. On verts weld downhill been doing it for 30 years,aint nothing to it. That is just my opinion it will be faster, and mo better!!!!!

Thanks Tuscaloosa.. I'lll get some .030 wire too and mess with it... I'm just learning.. but I want the best finished product I can get... I'm sure this won't be my last smoker build..

lostbuckaroo · Post by **lostbuckaroo** » January 15th, 2013, 12:38 pm

Ok lots more questions!

1. What are your opinions on the CC door seal? I've seen welded strips on the exterior of the door itself and also strips on the interior of the CC... I will be using the Bullet style weld on hinges if that makes any difference.

2. For the BP how how much hire than the FB/CC should it sit?

3. I'm planning on putting 2 sliding racks in my CC what the recommend minimum gap from from the BP to the first cook rack?

4. For the drain stem: are you guys using SCH 80 black pipe..? What is the preferred method of joining the pipe to the BP? Welding in a threaded coupler to the BP or welding the pipe directly to the BP... Also do you pitch the BP a little so that the liquid will flow to the drain inlet?

5. The only thing I will need to strip on this build is the tank exterior... so I don't think taking it the a sandblaster would be necessary... What the best way you've found to strip pant and clean the exterior for paint prep?

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