Look at the "Edgar is underway" thread. Since there is such a big temp difference between the inner and outer walls of an insulated door - they love to warp. I think it was the 3rd door I built that was 1/4 inch sheetmetal on his FB with latches at 2 and 4 o'clock - object was to get support to the door at all 4 corners. It never warped again after that. Good luck!
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
Forgot to mention this is a propane smoker with a felt gasket. I doubt it gets as hot as the FB door on your smoker. I used it a few times with no problems until I left it burning empty for too long.
Pete might be right (I know ….. annoying isn't it?)
Maybe the correct pressure on it throughout an entire heat/cool cycle will pull it back where it belongs. You'll prolly have to keep tightening it as it gets hot then let it cool in that position…..
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
Thanks for the tips. I will give those a shot. I don't know if it would work in this situation, but what about heating it with a torch and then holding a wet rag on it to shrink the metal rapidly? I have done that with warped tubing before.
I got the door flat again using a 60 ton press at work Now, the problem is that every time the smoker gets hot, the latch side of the door starts warping out and gets much harder to close. Does it sound like I just need to use much thicker steel for the skin of the door to prevent this? I am tired of having to fix latches as it pulls them out.
What sorta hinges did you use? I mentioned that because bullet hinges don't have any forgiveness if they're not absolutely lined up. I like flat plate hinges made of 3 pieces each with a bolt for a pin. I've never had a warping issue but then I use heavy steel on everything.
Making memories.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
They are bullet hinges. I am not sure how the hinges would have anything to do with the warping? The door functions perfectly when cool, but when it gets hot only about the first half of the door on the hinge side makes contact with the frame. The door is curled farther away from the frame the closer you get to the latches.
What is the frame like in the door? You maybe able to stop the warping with an X brace on the outside of the door. That would be the easiest fix. When I spoke of the hinges I was just saying the other type don't behave the same as bullets do. Like if you didn't give enough gap with the bullet installation it is rubbing the frame from the beginning then any heat at all causes it to rub harder.
jm2cw
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
The frame is 1" square tubing. I don't remember the wall thickness, but it is fairly thin. The tubing is stuffed with insulation, and there is a sheet of insulation between the two sheets of steel. It is a flat felt gasket.
My gravity feed tubing is 2" and 14 gauge. It is sturdy and built similarly with regards to the insulation. Mine is 2" rigid Roxul. But I have had it over 390 with no warping issues
Make no mistake, there ain't no powder in this Puff ! And... I'm not really a crazy person but I play one in real life
Inside might work if there is enough clearance between the door and my grates. How would you suggest doing the middle of the X? Cut one piece of angle iron in half and then weld it back together, or should I notch it out somehow?