Thanks for the comment Grabber I know it is going slow but I'm not in a real hurry. I try to get out in the garage every night and at least one day on the weekend. I'm so meticulous i don't get allot done but it will pay off in the end.
Hey guys got a question for you all.
I just welded the side door strap on the CC door and noticed a slight gap at the bottom. I tried to measure the gap and it appears to be about 1/16 of an inch out. Just to make sure i placed a 3/32nd welding rod in the gap. So is this going to really impact the performance of the smoker? How do i fix this? I have a 6ton hydraulic jack but no chains, I do have a 10K aircraft strap "picture a 2" wide tow strap that can pull 10,000 lbs." Do yall think I could just run a couple of beads of 6011 on the inside right there in the corner and draw it in? Have any of yall had success with this, or should i just try my strap and jack?
Unless you are really practiced up on the weld/bend technique I would just strap/jack it back a little.
And if all you have is 1/16 of an inch gap then I would suggest you look for something else on your smoker to worry about - that's certainly well within acceptable range - especially if you plan on any kind of seal material; silicone - firerope - etc…..
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
I would say that you can use toggle clamps to latch it down and if using any gasket material you will really like the way that works. I would use this one http://www.thetoggleclampstore.com/225d.html when it comes in take the bolt with the rubber end off and replace with a carriage bolt and you will be in there.
jm2cw
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Thanks for the reply guys. I tried the strap and jack bent it as far as i dare take the strap, but i was chicken because it started looking really stressed. It did not modify the shape of the door at all as soon as i released the tension the door went right back to it's original shape. So i think i will try the fire rope.
I asked around and finally figured how to make these latches they work great and you can really crank them to get rid of a gap especially with fire rope. The are ugly but I am going to spruce them up and put a rod with cool touch handles.
Hello all,
I know it has been a while but i'm back at the smoker project and have a few new pics to post. These pics are of the frame that I plan to put the cook chamber on. I will weld the 2 taller uprights to the left side of the smoker(non-firebox side) the shorter side that has the horizontal bar will have the Cook chamber sitting on the horizontal bar. Just on the other side of the bar I have built a formed cradle for the fire box to rest in and to be welded to. I have added the non-fire box end of the cook chamber end cap but no photos of that yet but soon. The wheels are galvanized BB wheels with grease zerts at the pivot point and in the axle's.
Hello all,
Got allot accomplished today I finished the left end cap and my buddy helped me attach and stand the smoker up. It is very solid in the upright and not near as top heavy as i thought it would be. Enjoy the photos below this is a huge step in the project.
Hello all,
So i have a question, I am prepping the inside of the Cook Chamber to get ready to put the baffold plate in. Here is my question there is some surface rust on the inside of the pipe. Can I just use the wire wheel to take the rust down to the mil-scale or do i need to grind all the way down to bare shiny metal?
If i have to take it down to shiny metal is there a better way than a grinding disc? I have a bad back and it is tough and very time consuming to stay bent over for long with out taking lots of breaks. I do have home sandblaster that I tried and it will take the rust down to bare metal at a very very slow pace. The wire wheel only takes the rust off down to mil-scale and so far the grinder has seemed to be the best/fastest.
I would appreciate and thoughts or suggestions, I do not want to take it to get it sand blasted as i am still far away from paint.
i just saw your build it was so shinny, i have a 7.5 inch dewalt angle grinder. Fromm what i could tell you got it shinny like that with a flapper wheel right? What grit did you use was it a flapper wheel?
so here are the pics to get an idea of the surface rust that i'm talking about. In the first pic on the left you have the surface rust and on the right i use the wire wheel to go down to mil-scale. In the second photo on the left you see some of the surface rust in the middle is the wire wheel and on the right is with the grinder.
so silly question what is a 36 grit for carbon, is that one of those metal diamond wheels i see at Lowes, or is that just a bigger flapper at a rougher grit? The lowest i have seen is 60 grit at Lowes