Well none of my picture comments made the post.
*The baffle plate is 1/4" plate with 2" angle iron in the center. 1/2" slope to the center and 3/4" drop to the drain end.
*Drain is 1-1/2"
*Heat chamber is 5" below the baffle plate
*Went with 3/8" plate for the door to help eliminate warp
* Installed a tension butterfly damper because my experience with slide gates is rust, heat expansion binding, and a hammer to move.
* Went with stainless angle iron and stainless expanded metal for the cooking rack because I do not cook enough and mild steel rust on me between cooking.
* Used stainless flat bar and stainless expanded metal for the removable rack to save space.
* Dropped the stack inside the chamber 5" Just my opinion that it helps hold heat in the upper section and makes it easier to maintain a consistent heat and initiates the convection effect.
* Added a removable grate on top of the firebox for heating stuff.
Nice work and good looking conversion - ought to work just fine!
You might weld some handles on the grate on top of the FB so it's easier to grab to set off and on….. jm2cw
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
The handles are a good suggestion thanks, funny how you miss the obvious towards the end of a project. Have not cooked on it yet.
Did put a fire in her though to check heat distribution and damper setting. Everything looked good, used a laser temp gun and all the outside surface of the cook chamber was fairly consistent with a low damper setting and the wood last quite awhile. Will shoot a thermal image and post in the next few weeks.
The hole in the roof is where she once stood.
I do have a couple of questions;
Do you put the water in the baffle plate or do you put a pan somewhere?
Has anyone tried the paint on insulation?
I haven't used a water pan in years but a disposable alum cake pan 1/2 full of water would be a good test method - you may decide you don't need one at all.
I would be concerned about spray-applied insulation having the proper temp rating. Most of those are epoxy-based and don't go that high…. but I'm no chemist ….
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
Thanks for the input, I get several wild hogs each year and they are not as fat. I have been using a water pan and it seems to help. I tried injecting but water seemed to do the trick. I have not had the internet long so you guys probably have some moisture tricks I have not read yet.
This is the insulation I was looking at for the cooking chamber it should not exceed this range advertised.
Nansulate® Translucent High Heat
High Performance Protective Thermal Insulation & Corrosion Prevention Coating
Patented Technology
For Pipes, Tanks, Metallic Surfaces
Product Details
Temperature Extremes: -40F to 400F (-40C to 204C)
Application Temperature Range: 40F to 212F (4C to 100C)
Going to re-build something just wells to go all out huh. Cheaper that all those freaking shoes in my closet.
I don't use water in my cooker anymore. It doesn't seem to help the meat gain moister in the process. It does put a lot of moisture in the cooker only causing rust in places that get the hottest. So I just stopped using a water pan.
Nice work you did there. I'm surprised you didn't use the same type grate inside the FB as you did on top. It looks so solid, those flat bars going side to side would last a very long time.
I like it a lot!
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Well I tried it out and I must say the reverse flow design is very effective. I am glad I found this forum, I think I will stick with this one for awhile.
Took the dogs down in the bottoms and they bayed a sow with some pigs. I picked out a nice shoat for the trial run.
Cooked the two back hams (weighed 6 lbs each), one with the bone in, one with the bone removed. Naturally had to add an Oklahoma prime rib for appetizers while I had it fired up.
Maintained a fairly consistent 225 degree with a very low damper setting. Not to bad on the wood usage either for an 8 beer cook or 4-1/2 hours, not sure how you guys time it. Put the probe in the full ham, wrapped when reached 160 and pulled off the smoker at 190 and in the cooler for an hour.
Yep, think I will used this one a little more.
Great insights from all. I usually painted the parts subjected to moisture. It is of great help to an extent. But I think what really worked for me was the support from the professionals at http://www.automaticcoating.com. I got a fusion bond epoxy done