I need some help here (again). I am confused about the heat (flow) being too hot or too cold. I've been reading so many posts & builds, I've ended up confused. I started to make a big adjustable damper above the fire. Figured if it wasn't needed, it woul be ok just left alone open. In the pic you can see the 3 "blocking" part of the damper. I was going to thake a end or cap and cut it out for the upper part of it. Then rig up a rod so that it would be adjustable. Even fully open it will block about 1/2 the air space. (the tank is 14.5" dia). This can not be added later without cutting. Is there any need for this or should I just leave the 3 "paddles" in there or cut all that stuff out and go to town on the CC? I need your permission for this before I procede.
I have never built a design like this but I'd worry about the extreme heat causing it to distort and not be able to adjust it. The top of my FB on my offset RF gets very hot even with a small fire using wood and my UDS only burns a small charcoal fire to achieve my cooking temps. I know everyone keeps saying it but these vertical style FB cookers are very efficient so I don't know if you'll be able to get a clean burning wood fire and maintain a low cooking temp. This is just my opinion and I am usually wrong according to my wife, lol so don't be afraid to be a pioneer and perfect a new design.
Thaks BigT, I think I'll just put it toghther the way it is. I keep forgetting that in reality I'm not making what I started out to. That is a RF cooker. I've been told this by the helpful folks here. I need to be reading in the UDS section, and get this first one done for this spring & summer. I think there is some hope that this old dog con be taught new tricks, just slowly!
Last edited by Smokydokey on April 21st, 2015, 9:29 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Ok, both air intakes are in, I finally figured a latch for the FB door that will pull it in (against the gasket) the more you move it. It's a crude "cam" type operation, and the CC is welded on to the FB. I'm trimming out the door with what I had around, a little "hefty", (1/4x2) but that should help bring things back in line. I have been careful with the heat, jumping around with my welding, but those diverters in the bottom of the CC moved things around a little!
Today I need to hinge the CC door, finish up the RF or "heat plate", and start figuring out the stack. At this point, I really don't know how big or tall to make it. With the FB @ 14 1/2 dia. , can it be too big? I plan on a cap or damper in the stack for an additional point to control flow. For convience I was thinking of using a 5" - 6" exhaust pipe material coming off a "box" built off the (center) back, up at about 2/3 of the CC height and extending back, away from the CC to make room
for the lid to open up.
Any suggestions for the stack size? Or any thing else you see for that matter
Even an 3 or 4" piece 12-16" long would be fine. You just need some draft to pull the smoke out. Verticals don't require a lot of exhaust draft because the CC has already done most of it due to the small fire needed.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Thanks RC. Would a 4" by about 3' be ok? I like the "scale" of that and getting above head level might be nice also. Is there a need to have a damper in it? (being 3' tall)
I would put a damper on it, because other wise it could draft too much causing your cooker to run hotter than you want. But a damper you could make it go either way.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Catch up time, Just finished the exhaust pipe. Had to make a box off the back so the door would open to where I wanted it to. I stubbed it up about 12" with a 4" sch. 40 pipe with a damper in it and will just stick a 4" regular automotive pipe inside of that. I plan on leaving it loose so that I can take it out for storage without poking a hole in my tarp. The CC door has been giving me a fit not fitting, and I keep throwing more metal at it. I built some latches that clamp it down pretty tight. At most I think that a small flat "tape" type fg. gasket is all I'll need.
Next is the basket and related ash pan stuff. I have no Idea how much charcoal I'll want to be able to hold. I gave up gas "grills" a long time ago for cooking on wood. I haven't come across (in the UDS section) any really basic things about the fire. Is it best to try to load enough charcoal at the start and just control the burn rate & temp? Or will I be reloading more charcoal during a smoke?
If you notice anything that might need changed or a problem, please chime right in!
Thanks fella's.
So do I want as big a "basket" as I can fit in there?
Should I try to design it to be removed and re filled (while hot)? That round hole it's got to go through might keep it on the small side.
I would think the size that will just go through the door will be enough, for almost anything you will be cooking. Vertical cookers are very efficient.
jm2cw
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Just got the expanded metal delivered yesterday along with some other odds & ends. Now building a frame/platform for the wheels, then the fire basket and cooking grates. Getting closer
Here's the base and the cooking grates. Seeing the CC is so small, I thought that I'd try to put "legs" on the grate. There is a 3" above the HP, and flop it over and it's 2" above. Thought that might be handy and for cleaning. With the grate at 3", there's only about 7" to the lid. I'm hoping that it doesn't twist up when hot. If you notice the 3/8 rod at one side, I was worried about blocking the chimney in any way. Anyone see anything wrong with this idea?
Pretty sure tomorow will be "burn out" day!! Finished the round pita charcoal basket with only a few cuts (to my hands). That sheet of expanded was the the roughest cut that I've ever seen, nothing but sharp edges.
Well, I got it hot and the paint is coming off! Everything is looking good, that is nothing has split apart or warped (that I can see). Had 742* on one spot with the infra red gun. A little too hot for smoking. I'm figurin that after this bournout, I'll try a fire with charcoal and see how the heat holds, I'm burning it out with oak & some pine. She's still out in front of the shop, burning.
I'm thinking about calling this either T bone or model T for obvious reasons. The next one will be more traditional in design.
Those goofy wheel barrow handles work well and just pull off the little adjustable legs. They also can store back on there. flipped around 180* so that they don't stick out in the way. If everything works out with the temps on the next burn, I'll add a little shelf in front of the cc door and maybe one on the right side along with some tool holders some where.
So far, there's prolly about $150 worth of new steel there and a chitload of time, the rest is, oops was junk, mostly from the dump!!
Attachments
the smoke seems to be nicely divided to each side.
Pine will definitely leave a little more resin behind than you want. Less smoke and more tar.
Seasoning is the process of getting your cooker ready for business. Basically you try to get your grates and the interior of your cooker to absorb oil in order to protect the metal and give you a food safe surface.
Spray down the interior of the cooker with cooking oil, warm to 300*, spritz interior with water, repeat 2-3 times. Many people also cook a greasy meat when they season their cooker to ad a little flavor, something like sausage or bologna.
Did a burn with charcoal & a few oak splits with a pair (left & rt) of econo char broil thermometers from wally world with another one in the chimney. It seemed to hold 200 to 250 depending on my air openings. I can see that this will learning process to find the best way to operate and reload it. I only used about 1/2 of a 15 lb. bag of charcoal. Since this seems like it might actually be a smoker instead of a mailbox (plan b), I'm finishing up some details, shelves, handles, etc.