I got the firebox all drawn to scale tonight and plate list all written up. Just have to get the tank cut open so I can get the measurements for the circular plate at the firebox end of the cc and the baffle plate dimensions. I'll have my buddy cut it all out on the CNC table.
Got some initial measuring done and marking for the initial cut. Made a little home made tank roller which makes it a ton easier rolling the tank for measuring and cutting. I can't take credit I saw it on YouTube. The steel casters were $5 a piece and just screwed to some garden timbres I had at home.
The picture with the square is just a way to get a square cut on a round end tank without having to try and measure off the irregular weld bead. This maybe common knowledge but I hadn't seen it done this way and the best way I could come up with to do it. Basically you run the square off the end of the bell at its highest point and even the gap at the top of the tank by eye. Put a mark at a measurement. I used 10". Then measure from those points the additional distance you need. In my case this was 20" additional. This will give me a 30" warming chamber and 54" cook chamber.
Not ground breaking I'm sure for most just posting so if this thread comes up in a search it may help someone.
On the calculators it is showing the half moon to be 13.25". I'm needing 69 sq/in. Has the calculator figured out at a throaty width of 13.25" with a 24" diameter cylinder that 69 sq/in is achieved?
Got the tank cut today and lived to tell about it. Larger section is the cook chamber smaller is the warming chamber that will sit on top the fire box. 4 1/2" angle grinder with a cut off wheel was super efficient cutting the tank. Only took 2 wheels. I also cut off the feet and other original pieces. I plan on using the feet for door stops.
I do like the roller. A bit of jigging and one could have the plasma torch in place and cutting whilst you turned the cylinder.
Nice use of technology.
Learning generally boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some just have to pee on the electric fence.
Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right. Henry Ford
Thanks guys. One question on the baffle plate. Is it sloping downward toward the baffle gap? As in the firebox end would be slightly higher than the end opposite the firebox? This makes sense to me but want to make sure that is the case so I can measure the baffle plate dimension.
I'm far from the level of build experience some of these guys have, but I've always considered the baffle plate as something to be set level with the rest of the CC. I can use a jack screw to raise and lower the end opposite the FB if I want to slow or speed up the movement of the heat/smoke that way without having a baffle plate incline to overcome. Do you NEED that? Probably not, but I like options!
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My motto on building smokers: “It does not matter how slowly you go so long as you do not stop” ~ Confucius