80 gallon air cylinder build

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 3rd, 2018, 4:56 pm

Evening all, I’ve been inspired to start a build and think
I’ve found the perfect cylinder, could you take a look and tell me what you think?
The back side of it is probably the side I will use after I’ve cut off the compressor mounts, let me know if you see anything bad about this cylinder.

Cole · Post by **Cole** » April 3rd, 2018, 6:24 pm

Looks like a nice tank, I recognize the name on the side. What is the length and diameter? Have you looked at the calculators?

Post by **Big T** » April 3rd, 2018, 7:35 pm

I've seen a lot of guys use those 80 gallon tanks so they'll work fine.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 4th, 2018, 1:27 am

Cole wrote:Looks like a nice tank, I recognize the name on the side. What is the length and diameter? Have you looked at the calculators?

20”Wide x 63” long.. I may cut a piece off that tank for the fire box and make the whole thing a garden rig, but I do have a diesel tank about 1/2 the size if I did decide to go big!

Post by **Rodcrafter** » April 4th, 2018, 6:13 am

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 6th, 2018, 8:38 am

well, it's all systems go! picked her up yesterday.

Will be cutting the cook chamber door tomorrow, one question, I can see there are different thoughts on where the top and bottom cuts should start, what would you suggest?

Also, this tank being so short, would 1 big door be ok?

Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » April 6th, 2018, 11:55 am

My vote is for 1 door. Wouldn’t consider 2 doors till you get into the 6 foot wide range. You would be correct either way, however. If you are going to make a counterweight, it doesn’t really matter. If not, the weight of the doors should be taken into account. Personally, I would always want a single door if I could lift it.

Top of door would be about 2 inches below top (say around the 1 o’clock position) and the bottom about an inch past horizontal (3:30 position). If you are going to be leaving yours outside, and rain is an issue, putting the top cut at 11-11:30 would help with rain run-off. The bottom is lower than horizontal so you can put your rack at the widest part of the chamber and not pinch you finger under the rack.

I’m sure others will have preferences as well. Not really sure you can go wrong as long as you get the room you need for The racks.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 8th, 2018, 4:45 am

Thanks dude, door is all drawn up!
Will be trying to make the cuts with a disc cutter, the tank has been fully venting for weeks, I’m guessing there could be compressor oil still in there. Would you recommend I fill with water to cut? Or an inert gas or dry ice, the gas or ice option I prefer due to the mess and logistics of water.

Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » April 8th, 2018, 11:36 am

It’s an air tank, right? Just cut it.

Oil will burn but, for our purposes of discussion, it’s not explosive with a spark.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 8th, 2018, 1:35 pm

Ok cut!! I’ve left it attached in the top corners to see how badly the doors recoil, there’s not much at all, maybe only 5mm! Shall I go ahead and just attach the hinges? Or remove the door

AndrewPalmer71 · Post by **AndrewPalmer71** » April 8th, 2018, 7:08 pm

smoke_savage wrote:Ok cut!! I’ve left it attached in the top corners to see how badly the doors recoil, there’s not much at all, maybe only 5mm! Shall I go ahead and just attach the hinges? Or remove the door

Attach the hinges first.

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Post by **Rodcrafter** » April 8th, 2018, 7:19 pm

There’s reasons to detach before you put hinges also. Say if there’s warp that requires jacking to straighten or if you will be using gasket material. The door would need to be shimmed for the correct gasket thickness.

jm2cw

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AndrewPalmer71 · Post by **AndrewPalmer71** » April 8th, 2018, 7:21 pm

Yep. I'd listen to RC, as I've "re-done" more things than I'd like to admit. Lol

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Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » April 8th, 2018, 8:19 pm

It’s easier to work on completely removed as the tank is lighter and you can reach into it better to weld in the plates and racks. Also, as mentioned, you will need to consider the thickness of gasket material or lip before welding on a hinge.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 9th, 2018, 8:35 am

ok that makes sense, but how do you manoeuvre such a large piece of material around to line it up for the hinges? is there a tutorial for this part of the build?

AndrewPalmer71 · Post by **AndrewPalmer71** » April 9th, 2018, 9:46 am

smoke_savage wrote:ok that makes sense, but how do you manoeuvre such a large piece of material around to line it up for the hinges? is there a tutorial for this part of the build?

I tacked my hinges to prevent the door from falling into the tank when the final tabs were cut. Then, after i cut the final tabs, I opened the door, removed the tacks from the body of the chamber and left the hinge intact with the door.

Afterwards i Welded on my flange, tweaked the door with Jack and chain, then reinstalled it using the marks left from the tacks. That way I knew how the door should be oriented.

Then, a couple weeks later, I scrapped the door and installed cabinet doors. But that's a whole-nother story. [emoji16]

There's multiple ways to go about it. The other guys can probably tell you better than I.

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Post by **Rodcrafter** » April 9th, 2018, 10:01 pm

I would tack the flanges on the ends of the door, do what ever shaping needs to be done with a jack and chain, then tack the top and bottom flanges on. When you set it on the tank to weld the hinges mark where the flange on the bottom lays. Then lift it to touch the top and mark it, do the same side to side. Put a ratchet strap around it, add shims if you’re gonna gasket it then tighten the strap or 2 straps. Now tap with a hammer to center between the marks. Weld the hinges on the top flange. And remove strap(s). Enjoy!

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The Czar · Post by **The Czar** » April 10th, 2018, 6:46 am

No pics...never happened...

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smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 10th, 2018, 1:30 pm

Thanks for all the help so far, the door is off and I opted for a 1 o clock top cut, these 80 gallon tanks are big but still a little narrow compared to the big propane’s, so I wanted as wider gap as possible.
The door seems in good shape, but completely removing is the way to go, as the rust in the tank is quite heavy, tomorrow I will get grinding it off.
Pic so far

Can admin change the title to “80 gallon air cylinder build”

Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » April 10th, 2018, 11:59 pm

Looks like a nice cut. Can’t stop now!

ajfoxy · Post by **ajfoxy** » April 11th, 2018, 1:26 am

Looking good... you are on the road to building a fine smoker.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 11th, 2018, 1:40 am

Flange talk.
Would 1”Wide be enough for a small smoker like this? I could probably go 1.5” max due to how close the end welds are.
Also recommended thickness?

Post by **Rodcrafter** » April 11th, 2018, 4:43 am

1-1/2 x 1/8 will be fine and pretty easy to work with.

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Dirtytires · Post by **Dirtytires** » April 11th, 2018, 2:40 pm

You will need enough overlap to cover the gap of the cut as well as mount your gasket material. I like to stick out from my door edge 1 inch.

smoke_savage · Post by **smoke_savage** » April 11th, 2018, 4:18 pm

I will be using 1/2’ fireblack gasket seal, so 1” should be enough. They depress so much I don’t think shimming will be needed?
Will be getting a brand new Jasic mig welder this week to do the work

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