I'm not sure what it was called but it looks similar to the coating in the last food grade drums that I bought. I burned them out real good and then scrubbed them with comet and a hard bristle brush.
It needs to go,. The orange layer is the dreaded barrier. You need to burn it or sand blast it out. Contrary to what you may think, barrels that have not had food in them are better, then barrels that have had contained food.
If you would like information about building your own heatermeter or having someone build one for you, feel free to ask any questions you may have.
For a few seconds it looked like you had a whole tree parked in that drum...
Learning generally boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some just have to pee on the electric fence.
Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right. Henry Ford
Bugger.
You could use this unfortunate incident to move up in the UDS world and use a Webber kettle lid. Some fit nicely others need a rim of steel welded on the inside of the drum and sticking out a bit.
Learning generally boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some just have to pee on the electric fence.
Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right. Henry Ford
Show of hands. looking for a little help. I have 2 ideas. Problem is when i burned the berral out the top of the drum got smaller. Lid is way to tight to drop down for a good fit.
1. Cut the lip of the berral in a few spots, opening it up just enough for the lid to fit down tight on the drum. then weld it back up and grind it down. I am leaning this way. should be easy fix.
2 Go buy some sheet metal and build a new lid. Thinking 1/4 should be heavy enough. lol may be even insulate the lid while i am at it.
I would go with the easiest method. I know that was a big help.. lol. Do you think that you can stretch it back out to fit the lid or is it going to turn in to a dog chasing its tail ? I can't tell how bad it is from the picture but I know that it's hard to make a perfect circle after it has deformed and the lid will need to fit pretty snug.
Jeez 1/4 for the lid. Put a hinge on it then as it will be very heavy. I generally make my flat lids out of 1.6 mm sheet. With a 2mm x 15mm steel strip around the edge. Not had one warp yet. A ring roller of sorts is an essential bit of kit for this method though. You can do it manually but it takes awhile to get right.... a cnc plasma table is also a handy thing, but it can be done manually.
Or else you can look around for a Webber (or similar) kettle lid and use that. Benefit of webber lid is that is you can have two grids with meat on as the top one will fit nicely inside the webber dome.
A pic of one I started making awhile ago (hence the rust) and not used as everyone wants a webber type dome lid.
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Learning generally boils down to "Repetition or the avoidance of pain", some people learn by doing, some by watching and some just have to pee on the electric fence.
Whether you think that you can, or that you can't, you are usually right. Henry Ford
Look for a Weber grill with lid on Craigslist. Sometimes you can get lucky and find one for free or near free. Weber lids are the way to go on a UDS. Gives you much more room
If you would like information about building your own heatermeter or having someone build one for you, feel free to ask any questions you may have.
I don’t know but you might be able to buy a lid at a local drum dealer. I buy mine new unlined with open top. Then I use the ring on the top to make my Weber lid fit the drum.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
ajfoxy wrote:Bugger.
You could use this unfortunate incident to move up in the UDS world and use a Webber kettle lid. Some fit nicely others need a rim of steel welded on the inside of the drum and sticking out a bit.
I agree
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