What seems to work the easiest for me is to use about 2 in. square tube, cut one end at a 30* angle the other square, cut 18 in. long to use as a standoff and then an 4 in square tube almost as long as your door, welded to it in the center to create a T. Tack weld the angled end to the door about 8 inches from the hinge's edge. Check to see if the door opens enough to give you the proper access, if not change the angle a bit at a time until it does, if so then the next step is begin filling the 4 inch tube with whatever steel you have. The cheaper the better, some folks use re-bar, add until you feel you have enough weight to serve your purpose. Remember if you make it too easy to open, it may cause it to leak then also you may need to add latches to keep it closed when in transport.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
Everything RC said is correct. (annoying isn't it?)
I like to add lock lugs that are small tabs with holes welded down in the corner of the door/tank that you can lock a padlock into for traveling. Both CC and FB. I usually carry stuff inside the cooker so I don't want the door bouncing open. Plus going into eat somewhere keeps prying passer-bys out of there while it's in the parking lot. Surprising how much of a crowd will form to "study" a cooker when they think no one is around…..
And on the eighth day God created barbecue …. because he DOES love us and he wants us to be happy.
Current smokers: Egor (trailered RF) and Easybake (tabletop pellet drive)
Thanks. I did something unorthodox and it works well and looks very similar to what you guys stated.. This project will not be finished until spring or when I get more cash on hand. I all I have left is the FB and the CC to deal with. I bought a trailer and got the tank for free and had most of the other metal just laying around.