That should make a nice smoker either way you decided to build it. I know that TQ puts a charcoal pan inside his warming cabinet and he can direct cook in the WC or remove the pan, open the baffle and use it for additional room in his smoker.
I'm thinking you are a bit light on your weight estimate. TIll you add wood, a cooler, maybe a table and the future vertical warmer you are Gonna be closer to 2000 lbs. You might be better off Starting with a better rated trailer or building one.
An overloaded trailer will be nothing but problems.
im still working on planning it out. so far I estimate my tank to be around 300lbs 67x20x1/4, havn't figured for the end caps(350-375 total?)...fire box should be 150ish and baffle plate maybe 75. haven't decided warming cabinet or not or what it would weigh. probably close to the firebox. I was thinking about getting one of those trailer kits mostly for the certificate of origin. should make it easier to get licensed. don't want to deal with inspectors questioning my welds if I call it a home built....they have a 1100 and 1700lb rated kit. I was going to use the axles, springs, and tail lights and make the frame from 1 3/4 .120 wall tubing. by the time I add wood racks and trim pieces, frame material, I could see it easily coming close to the 1100 rating. the 1700lb kit is probably good to go.
i assume they will inspect your trailer either way...unless it is totally stock. Welding a 1000 lb tank to it is probably not considered stock.
Overbuild the trailer and remember that those small tires probably have a max speed of 45-55 mph and will need replaced pretty often. Consider all the work and limitations and see if it still makes sense.
Keep us tuned in....seems many others are/have considered this option.
So going with cf and hf 1720 lb capacity/2k gvwr trailer. The title sub agent says the kit comes with a vin and mfg statement of origin, they use that vin, and issue plate and title, no inspection from state police. If I home build, need reciepts and notorized bills of sale for the parts and an inspection. I can always upgrade tires or what ever else I need to after wards.
Anyways into the design. Thinking I'll use the tank as the top of the fire box. Then I only have to buy 5 pieces of plate. Cut the end pieces to match the curve of the tank and have a nice tidy smooth assembly. Last time I made a cube and set the tank on top with a collar/ grease damn to connect the two. I'll work on my rough sketch and post that soon
That's the basic idea, have the bottom of the fire box easy to clean out, put the door deal lip under underneath. Probably use truck exhaust pipe for stack again if I can find another piece. Will wind up making a separate grill box that slides into a couple pieces of tubing welded to the bottom of the tank on one end, have it come off and store under the tank when not in use. Have the tank be the top of the fire box, cut the throat out and line the opening with flat bar to make a grease dam, use the door opening cut out for a shadow plate....something like that
so they didn't have my trailer in stock when I tried to buy one. so that gave me more time to think about this.
just an idea here. what about an offset reverse flow, but tuck the fb under the tank like I did on my center feed. it would look better(to me anyways) than a cf on a trailer and be more compact than having the fb hanging off the end. I havnt had the need for a warming cabinet yet, not worried about loosing the top of the fb for side projects. if I went this way, not sure what would be the best set up for the fb opening. somewhere on the end of the tank, right at the end bell maybe?
frame is gonna be 1 3/4 .120 dom, some kind of cargo basket on the front of the trailer. so where the the sides of the fire box meet the end bell, there would be a gap on what would be the top of the fire box.im thinking Id cut a slot on the end of the tank and insert the bp. that would close the 2 little gaps and make fitting the bp super easy.
side air inlet or inlets. the fb door would be on the rear end, easier to get to and clean than a cf. have a shelf level with the cook grate. probable add upper rack...
before wood/cooler racks , cook grates, small misc parts. estimating 730 pounds or so. could come in right around 1000 pounds.
anything about this a bad idea? ive only built a cf and vertical cabinet, not sure how this fb set up would work out.
Interesting! I'm wondering if you cut out the entire bottom of the tank for the FB and extended the top of the FB for the BP. Then have the throat at the top left side of the FB (in the drawing). You'll probably get more than enough radiant heat from the top of the FB and the throat opening to the left would heat the rest of the BP. It would shorten the draw required for heat and smoke. You might even need a shadow plate inside the top of the FB if the BP got too hot on that end. It would certainly make the build easier. It will be somewhat of an experiment tho and would probably need some tweaking but it would surely be more efficient. I like it!
If it's tourist season, how come I can't shoot 'em?
ill have some time to think on this. interesting idea. make regular fire box, and cram the whole thing in there. im wondering if I would be able to get somewhat even temps if 1/3 of the bp was also the top of the fire box. If I was needing a shadow plate for the top of the fire box, isn't that kinda along the same idea as separate bp and using the tank for the fire box top? I got my trailer kit yesterday. going to go start bending some tubing for the frame. I have some time to think about this. either way, it will be tucked under as in the drawing.
well here is what I got done today. one hf diy trailer kit. the first and second cross member tubes in the picture will make up the cargo rack area. something like 2x4ft maybe 2.5x4ft. about a 4x8ft deck, around 11ft total length, but I might trim that down some later
Here is the firebox tacked together. set it on the tank, a few quick measurements, it seems like its on there straight enough. need to weld it up and mount fb to trailer then I can drag the tank out of my truck and start working on the cook chamber. this was a vehicle tank, so I have lots of valve ports and a fuel level gauge to remove.
I would "think" that the additional radiant heat you will get from the top of the FB will allow you to burn a much smaller fire. If you're not going to weld the BP in you would have the option of putting insulation between the top of the FB and the BP if say the CC runs too hot. Just a thought.
Making memories.
Current Smokers: Backyard RF Offset and Hybrid RF Offset trailer rig with Cowboy cooker and fish fryer, always room for more........
The plan is to make the throat opening all the way at the end, use a bp, the rest of it will be set up like the usual offset reverse flow layout, I just moving the fb under the tank for a smaller footprint since I don't think I'd use a warming cabinet.
Fire box is about done, had to go get some small pieces to make a track for the inlet sliding damper. Put some angle around the door opening just in case.