1200x660mm First time Build

[highlucks]

Hi Guys,

I would like to start by saying thank you for everything I have learned over the last few months from these boards. You have all been very very helpful.
On Tuesday I received the parts for my first reverse flow smoker build. I based this off the 20 x 36 build that lead me to finding this forum. Basically I upsized the dimensions to suit a 120cm long cook chamber. Little did I know just how big that was going to be when I saw it for the first time, none the less it will still be a good cooker just bigger and heavier than I imagined the plate as I have received it already weighs in at 275kg which is a lot for a back yard trolley mounted rig.

I will follow the original build as best I can regarding the construction and start with the FB first.

The CC has been rolled from 6mm plate, as have the FB walls, door, floor and back plate. The BP has been cut from 8mm plate. I wanted all of the flats to be 8mm but it did not work out that way. In the future I can always insulate the fire box.

I also intend to have a burger/steak grill installed in the top of the FB with a closeable lid.

All in all I am pretty stoked with what I have to start with. After all not a bad purchase for two cartons of beer.

[ajfoxy]

Way to go.. I think 6mm plate will be more than adequate. Heck the entire "The Mack" smoker is built out of 6 mm plate.

Well all I can say is go to it. Should be an interesting build to watch.

[Chromeski]

Off to a great start. I wish I could get all that for 2 cases of beer

[Big T]

[highlucks]

Do you guys think I will need a shadow plate. with the 8mm (3/8") Baffle plate? If I do it will be going above the BP.

[Dirtytires]

If I were to do mine again, I would put a short shadow plate (about 10 inches long) and mount it 1-2 inches below my baffle plate. It would be right up next to the firebox to help tame the heat on the firebox side of the smoker.

[highlucks]

My BP forms the roof of the firebox as a signle piece of metal. So that isn't really an option. I can however put one on top.

[Dirtytires]

Sounds like itcan wait. I would cook on it and add later if you find a need.

[Rodcrafter]

I understand the point made about weight of a backyard smoker. Mine is all 3/8” and it weighs about 800lbs. Love it though mine is 20x36


Making memories!

[highlucks]

So I have been making some slow progress. I have the walls and floor of the FB welded to the BP. My first welds were horrid because there was no gas in the mig. A week later we had gas and one of the lads here gave me a quick lesson in gluing metal.

I have cut out the FB air intakes at 3 x 5", based on the pit calculator here I need two of these. If I need a third in the door I can always add one later.

I went for bolt sliders for the intake doors, I wanted something a little different to the standard flat plate or angle. and I think they came out pretty well. I used an off cut of the intake door material to make a simple jig to grind all the bolts to the same height after cutting.

I still need to source the rod for the cooking racks, Angle for the FB door and rack holders, the flat for the CC door and possibly some 5" pipe for the chimney. we have 4 and 6" here. I think 4 will look to small and that 6 may be too much weight. I would like to keep it to around 350kg on the fixed weight.

Here are some pictures of my progress.

[highlucks]

FB Intakes

[Chromeski]

Looks good, I don't think I'd worry about a little extra weight on the stack that thing is gonna be heavy no matter what you do

[highlucks]

haha thanks, that's what I am scared of. So much so that I am looking at cheap trailers.

[highlucks]

I have a question for the brains trust. I plan to have three racks in this smoker and I was hoping you guys could advise spacing between the racks. I have 22" from the BP to the top of the CC

[Dirtytires]

First, nice progress. A smoker is a great project to learn metalworking on. Don’t get discouraged by slow progress as that is just the way it goes.

You mentioned looking for rod for the racks and you were concorned for weight. Most of us use flat expanded metal for our cook surface. Lighter, easier and better looking than using cut rods.

3 racks in yours is going to be cozy. Ribs will fit fine but a shoulder will most likely not fit. Mine is a 24 inch pipe. Bottom rack is 5 inches from baffle plate and top rack is 5 inches above that. I’ve only got 6 inches left at the top and it gets crowded fast with the curve of the pipe. On mine, I wouldn’t change a thing.

[highlucks]

The rod option was more of a cost thing, it is cheaper than the flattened expanded sheet by around 25%, plus I would need to buy a lot more expanded sheet than I need. I also quite like how they look. The racks will not contribute to the fixed weight as they can be removed while the rig is being moved.

[Dirtytires]

I never thought I would use a 4x8 sheet either...but I did. Used it for my cooking racks, the warmer box racks, a bottom shelf on the frame of the smoker and a full legnth swing up prep rack. Also made the firebox from it. That is a lot of material for $50 in my opinion.

[highlucks]

$192 here in Australia.

[Dirtytires]

Yikes....I think I would learn to use solid bar.

Amazing the price difference in parts of the world.

[highlucks]

Yesterday I got the BP tacked into the CC and marked out the door opening and did 3 of the cuts leaving the corners intact to be cut later.
Fully welding the BP will be much easier once the CC door is removed. I used the seem roll as the lower door cut so only had to do the three.
I think this CC door is actually going to flex inward. Welds are still very ugly.

[Rodcrafter]

[Big T]

[ajfoxy]

definitely coming along nicely.

[highlucks]

Thanks guys, I was considering doing a stack from the BP that was open all the way to the top and then have optional drop in gates to restrict or position the flow of the smoke but I think I will now go for a more conventional set up with it closer to centre or top of the CC. If i go from the centre to the top I suppose I can still run the gate system if I want to.

[Dirtytires]

Great progress. Keep it going.

I am definitely not the welding professional but my welder does not like dirty metal. I might recommend you clean up the rust on the edges where you want to weld. It will help the weld penetrate as its not fighting rust.