Thanks for the input. Once the door is fit, a decision on a door gasket will get made.Dirtytires wrote: ↑March 28th, 2020, 11:34 amYou might consider fully welding as it will help smoke and heat from escaping as hour door and door-seal will not cover that seam. Obviously, this is less of a problem with well fitting pieces so it may not be absolutely necessary.
Nice build. appreciate the catalogue that you are logging with pictures and excellent captions.Mgraves wrote: ↑March 28th, 2020, 11:00 pmDay 4:
Putting in drain from baffle plate.
Working on warming cabinet doors trim.
Firebox dampers installed!
Trying to re-curve cook camber door that sprung when cut. Two bottles jacks I had crap out! Put some pipe clamps on till, another bottle jack can be found with a bigger chain. It sprung a 1/4 inch. It’s squeezed in a 3/4 inch. But with spring back I guessing in needs to be pulled in a 1.25” or 1.5”. Thought??
What is the ideal grill height off the ground?? Thinking about legs and caster combo.
Thanks
looks like that may have been 20" pipe in the video (written on side of pipe from supplier in soapstone/ paint pen in video), so not too sure what a 24" pipe would spring open. Probably also depends on which plant roll formed/ extruded and seam welded the stuff too, which may determine how much tension is on the pipe. Those are all unknowns until it's cut IMO..I think I'd start with my pipe and split it, then determine how much spring back there was and see if it was a big deal or not, based on either the "pit calculator" or "Feldon's Calculator". http://www.feldoncentral.com/bbqcalculator.html. Feldon's seems pretty close to Smoker builders Calcs..